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Timeless elegance: Britain’s new ‘ludicrously luxurious’ train

By Anthony Lambert

Fancy chugging along some of the globe’s most spectacularly scenic stretches, all the while propped up by plush furnishings and intermittently plied with excellent food and drink?

The bar within the Observation Car – the train’s social hub.

The bar within the Observation Car – the train’s social hub.Credit:

Such is the experience provided by heritage rail company Belmond, which operates six of the world’s most ludicrously luxurious trains – the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, the Eastern and Oriental Express, the Andean Explorer, the Hiram Bingham, Royal Scotsman and the British Pullman. These trains pamper their passengers while forging through Peru, Scotland, Malaysia and the like – and soon, there will be a seventh member of this exclusive club.

Enter the Britannic Explorer – due to join the Belmond fleet in July 2025 – a luxury hotel cruise train that will travel through some of the most magnificent landscapes in England and Wales. Until now, the new arrival has been a closely guarded secret – but last week, I was allowed a sneak peek inside, and the latest addition to the Belmond set does not disappoint.

The 11 coaches were formerly used by the Grand Hibernian train (which ran in Ireland between 2016 and 2021) but have been given a complete makeover, transformed by London design practice Albion Nord with an ethos inspired by the natural world.

Let’s start with the observation car, which – with its bar, armchairs and banquettes – will be the train’s social hub. The bar’s backlit amber glass discs, inspired by “the timeless charm of Victorian apothecaries”, cast a golden glow by night.

Meanwhile, the design theme of the two dining cars – malva and samphire – is the cultivation of herbs and flowers used in British cooking, with woven rattan panels, antique mirrored ceilings and floral lights. There is also a plush wellness suite that will host daily activities, with aestheticians and massage therapists providing a detox.

Antique mirrored ceilings lend retro flair to the train’s dining cars.

Antique mirrored ceilings lend retro flair to the train’s dining cars.Credit:

Then there are the cabins – 18 in total, providing two types of en-suite accommodation that is all about timeless elegance. The suites (of which there are 15) feature wallpaper designed by Luke Edward Hall (whose designs also grace the walls of Hotel Les Deux Gares in Paris), and staff transform cabin daybeds into double or twin beds while passengers enjoy their evening meal.

The larger grand suites, meanwhile – of which there are three – have separate sitting rooms (with a sofa, small marble table and chair), and are named after botanicals juniper, valerian and elder, their colours influencing the decorative schemes. Unusually for a railway carriage interior, the oak panelling has been left natural or given a matte finish, which gives a lighter, airy feel.

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Grand suites have separate sitting rooms.

Grand suites have separate sitting rooms.Credit:

Fine dining has become a crucial part of any luxury rail, and fare on the Explorer has been entrusted to chef Simon Rogan, who has championed organic food in the three-Michelin-starred L’Enclume in Cartmel, Cumbria, which he opened in 2002. Produce will come from his Lake District farm, its quality helping to fulfil his culinary quest to enable diners “to taste every single element of each dish”. Menus will reflect local specialities and there will be nods to local artisan suppliers en route.

Trains will depart from London Victoria on three easily combined itineraries to provide what is billed as “a window on modern Britain”. There will be two Monday-to-Friday routes, to Cornwall and to the Lake District, and a Monday-to-Thursday wander through Wales.

The suites (of which there are 15) feature wallpaper designed by Luke Edward Hall (whose designs also grace the walls of Hotel Les Deux Gares in Paris).

The suites (of which there are 15) feature wallpaper designed by Luke Edward Hall (whose designs also grace the walls of Hotel Les Deux Gares in Paris).Credit:

The Cornwall tour travels the delightful stretches of line beside the sea in Devon and Cornwall, with off-train excursions to Tremenheere Sculpture Gardens near Penzance for a guided tour of the gardens, art gallery and a wine-tasting; an after-hours tour of the Hauser and Wirth Gallery and garden in Somerset; and guided tours of St Ives and Fowey.

Guests on the Welsh tour reach Haverfordwest near the Pembrokeshire coast before returning to Llanelli, and a journey over the glorious Central Wales line through rugged mountain scenery and a succession of former Victorian watering spas.

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From Shrewsbury, the tour heads west for one of the longest stretches of railway beside the sea in Britain, between Dovey Junction and Porthmadog, over the spectacularly sited wooden bridge across the estuary of the river Mawddach. Off-train entertainments include an evening party in a Cotswold pub, a guided hike and a dive into Machynlleth’s food scene.

The Lake District tour heads north to Leeds and Carnforth – the filming location of Brief Encounter, and junction for the Cumbrian Coast line that skirts the west side of the Lake District, with frequent stretches beside the sea. Before reaching the border city of Carlisle, there is an excursion on Derwentwater and exclusive access to one of the private quarters of the Lingholm Estate, where Beatrix Potter spent more than 20 summer holidays.

From Carlisle, the train takes England’s most scenic railway, the Settle-Carlisle, south across Ribblehead Viaduct to Leeds. On the return through the eastern Cotswolds, the Britannic Explorer offers an exclusive stop at the two-Michelin-starred manor house hotel and restaurant Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons, in Oxfordshire.

From $21,722 (£11,000) a person twin share, all inclusive. See belmond.com

The Telegraph, London

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/travel-news/timeless-elegance-england-s-new-ludicrously-luxurious-train-20241205-p5kw5i.html