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Tripologist: What places in southern Italy must we absolutely visit?

Michael Gebicki is Traveller’s expert Tripologist. Each week he tackles the thorny issues in travel as well as answering your questions. Got a question for the Tripologist? Email tripologist@traveller.com.au

We are planning to go to Italy next year and while northern Italy is quite familiar we are completely unfamiliar with the bottom part of Italy. Could you recommend the places we must absolutely include on our trip? We have been told that in the South of Italy, driving was quite a challenge! J. Ternisien, Cremorne, NSW

Polignano a Mare, a stunning clifftop town on the coast of Puglia.

Polignano a Mare, a stunning clifftop town on the coast of Puglia.Credit: iStock


The stellar attraction in southern Italy is Puglia. Start in Bari, then head south along the coast to visit Polignano a Mare and Monopoli and then turn inland to visit Alberobello, Locorotondo and Martina Franca, the “White Villages” of the Valle d’Itria, they’re all gorgeous.

Base yourself in one of these for a few nights and explore the surroundings, either Ostuni, which is the most popular, or Martina Franca. You might even stay in one of the local masserie, the traditional farmhouses of the region, now converted to smart hotels, ideal for plumbing the soul of the region. Continue south to Lecce, an elegant city crafted in the extravagant Baroque style which has earned it the subtitle ‘Florence of the South’.

Further south of Lecce, Galatina is worth a visit if only for the remarkable basilica dedicated to Saint Catherine with sumptuous frescoes in a wonderful state of preservation. There are several palazzos here from the 17th and 18th centuries that reflect the wealth and opulence that Puglia once enjoyed.

Otranto is worth a visit and if you want to spend some time at a beach club, the east coast, which has cliffs and tiny sea coves, is preferable to the flat beaches of the west coast. I’ve booked a week in late September in Santa Cesarea Terme.

Turn north and cross from Puglia to Basilicata and visit the remarkable city of Matera, one of the most astonishing towns in Italy, if not the world. Lining the sides of a river gorge where most of the population once lived a squalid existence in caves bored in the gorge walls, Matera transports you back to the Old Testament.

If you’re used to driving in Italy, Puglia presents no great challenges. The roads are noticeably worse than in most other parts of the country and as is usual in Italy, the streets seem to become narrower and more crowded as they approach the town’s centre. Figuring out how to use the parking meters is annoying since they all seem to be slightly different. It’s less stressful if you find a parking station close to the centro storico.

My sister and I, both fit and in our 70s, would like to go to Morocco. I’ve heard that we could hire a private car and driver. Is this a safe way to go? Is there any easy way to do a private tour otherwise, or should I go with a tour company? Where could we visit over a couple of weeks? R. Beilby, Sydney, NSW

Join a guided tour in Morocco.

Join a guided tour in Morocco.

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It is possible to hire a private vehicle with a driver but the driver isn’t a guide and their English language might be limited. Unless you’re confident in booking hotels and arranging your own tours, you’re far better off joining a guided tour.

Most Moroccan itineraries will start in Casablanca, which has the best air connections, and then visit Rabat, Fes, and across the Atlas Mountains to spend a night or two in a camp among the dunes of the Sahara at Merzouga.

From there the route runs along the south side of the Atlas Mountains, visiting some of the palmeries that are greened by the runoff from the mountains. At Ouarzazate the tour will turn north to Marrakech and perhaps visit the coastal town of Essaouira before finishing in Casablanca.

There are more adventurous options, for example south from Marrakech into the remote area of the Sahara at Zagora, but this is also more difficult to organise.

There are several tour operators in Australia who specialise in tours of Morocco including Meera Freeman Food and Travel, Byroads and By Prior Arrangement.

If you prefer to arrange your own tour, the transport operator I use is Tabarak Transport. They’re excellent, highly professional and reasonably priced.

I am a wheelchair user and stairs are difficult but my husband and I are looking for a European river cruise that would work for us. E. Jamieson, Balwyn, Vic

There’s a lot to take into account for wheelchair users. Some operators go the extra mile to make sure your cruise will be an outstanding experience but you need to ask very specific questions to find the cruise that is going to work for you.

According to Scenic Tours, “wheelchair will not have full access to all ship facilities and locations, and embarkation & disembarkation may not be possible in a wheelchair.” That’s often the case, for example when your river cruiser ties up alongside other cruisers and passengers have to negotiate several gangplanks to cross these vessels to reach the shore. This can be particularly challenging for wheelchair users, and disembarkation might even be impossible. Quite a few vessels have bathrooms with grab handles and dimensions that are sufficiently wide to allow you to move around the cabin relatively easily. Shore excursions can be difficult for wheelchair travellers, but some operators offer “gentle walking” excursions.

There is no “best” cruise operator that stands out in the amenities it offers to travellers with mobility issues, and all such travellers have slightly different needs. Your best bet is to call the cruise operators and discuss your needs with a travel consultant. For more information see Cruise Critic’s article on accessible river cruises.

My husband and I are planning a two-week trip to Greece this September travelling to and from Athens and would greatly appreciate your suggestions. We are interested in a mix of historical sites, cultural experiences and natural beauty, with a balance of sightseeing and relaxation. L. Stedman, Ashfield, NSW

Start your Athens visit with a walking tour around the Plaka area.

Start your Athens visit with a walking tour around the Plaka area.Credit: iStock

Start off with a few days in Athens and take a walking tour around the Plaka area, Urban Adventures is one option, Athens Walking Tours is another. Be sure to take in the Acropolis and the National Archaeological Museum, the Agora, Monastiraki Square and Syntagma Square and the Central Market. House specialty at Thissio View Roof Garden Restaurant is a spectacular night view of the Acropolis, but there are several other restaurants that offer a similar spectacle.

You’ll want to spend some time in the Greek Islands and the magnet for any first-time visitor is the Cyclades Islands, and although it’s too popular for its own good, a few days on Santorini is a must. Born from a volcanic explosion in about 1450 BCE, Santorini is the most surreal, the most spectacular and perhaps the most un-Greek of all the Greek islands.

Mykonos, another Cycladic Island, is the Cinderella of the Aegean, a favourite with megastars. In the main town whitewashed sugar-cube houses are hung with tottering wooden balconies, strung together by a narrow maze of alleyways and overlooked by windmills.

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Just off Mykonos, Delos is two square kilometres of outdoor museum piled with temples, altars, and statues. To the south is Naxos, and by the standards of the Greek islands the terraced interior of Naxos is an oasis, lushly watered and quilted with olive groves, vineyards and giant fig trees.

Finally Hydra, a personal favourite. Located just a short ferry ride from Piraeus, the harbour for Athens, the island has a rich cultural life and a lively summer calendar. It’s also a listed architectural reserve so it’s been spared some of the worst excesses of modern Greek island architecture, motor vehicles are banned from the main town and donkeys and mules are still very much part of the island’s haulage industry.

For more detailed information on travel in Greece search Traveller. The Culture Trip is another great resource.

Travel advice is general; readers should consider their personal circumstances.

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