To sleep at this luxury bush lodge is to feel cradled by Mother Earth

The hotel

Seven Spirit Bay, Cobourg Peninsula

Check-in

Accessible only by private air charter or boat, Seven Spirit Bay is located on the Cobourg Peninsula in the Garig Gunak Barlu National Park on the western tip of Arnhem Land.

Seven Spirit Bay on the western tip of Arnhem Land.

It’s about as far off the grid as it gets. Checking-in is half the fun; a 40-minute flight from Darwin, a safari-style drive through coastal woodlands (with a detour to search for buffalo, banteng and Timorese ponies) and a glass of bubbles on arrival while you fine-tune the details of your stay. I opt for an early lunch and a quick costume change before I’m back in the jeep for an excursion to Kennedy Bay Beach.

The look

Built in 1992, it was one of the first luxury lodges in the outback, chosen for its remote and rugged location on the edge of the Arafura Sea. Now, a member of Journey Beyond’s portfolio of unique lodges and experiences, Seven Spirit Bay’s habitat villas and common areas were fully renovated across the 2018/19 wet season. The communal heart of the lodge is the elevated Wawidada pavilion, a bright and breezy space overlooking the water, where meals are served, and tall tales told about the one that got away. You’ll find wicker furniture, tan leather couches, glass louvre windows and any number of crocodile skulls. Come sundowners the billabong-style pool is the place for canapés and cocktails.

The room

One of the freestanding villas at Seven Spirit Bay Lodge.

Honeycombs, dragonflies’ eyes and Seven Spirit Bay’s luxury habitat villas, are all based on one of nature’s favourite shapes – the hexagon. The 24 freestanding villas are dotted discretely among the waterfront patch of tropical forest. To sleep within this perfectly proportioned polygon, with floor-to-ceiling louvres opened to the sounds of the bush and bay, is to feel cradled by Mother Earth herself – albeit with fine linens, air conditioning and daily laundry. A vast timber headboard anchors the king-size bed, its reverse side facing the en-suite and providing a discrete place for luggage and clothes, mini-bar, and tea and coffee making facilities. It’s all quiet and calming, the timber and leather accents, minimalist decor and white louvres lending a tropical-safari meets modern-luxe vibe. There is no television or Wi-Fi in the room, and I don’t miss either.

Food + drink

You’ll need your stretchy pants. All meals – and house-made cheesecake, fudge brownies and choc-chip cookies set out on the sideboard after lunch – are included. Breakfast delivers a hearty helping of tropical fruits, cereals, breads and juices served with made-to order eggs, while lunch is typically a gourmet burger or an on-the-go wrap with fruit and muffins. Dinner consists of a choice between two mains; the fresh catch of the day, with accompaniments such as chilli sesame crumble and seaweed, or a second option, which may be duck, kangaroo or lamb. Desserts include crowd-favourites such as brandy snaps with lemon grass and ginger syrup or apple crumble and cream. Wines are mainly from South Australia and Tasmania, but special requests can be organised ahead of time.

Out + about

On safari at Seven Spirit Bay.

Choose your own adventure. From four-wheel-drive safaris to fishing for barramundi, bird watching in the RAMSAR-listed wetlands to marine expeditions aboard MV Arafura – it’s all included. A cruise to the historic Victoria Settlement gets my vote as one of the best day-tours in the country. Walking among the crumbling remains of this “lost city” – established by the British Navy in 1838, abandoned in 1849 – is the main event, but detouring to search for manta rays, sea turtles and saltwater crocodiles, while cruising Port Essington is a thrilling support act.

The verdict

This is your quintessential outback luxury lodge, positioned in one of the most stunning locations in Australia. A stay here will create memories for a lifetime.

Essentials

Dry season rates – May to September – cost $2595 per villa per night (double occupancy). Rates are inclusive of meals, beer, wine and basic spirits, and all activities. Return air transfers are additional. See outbackspirittours.com.au

Our score out of five

★★★★½

Highlight

With their eagle eyes and endless patience, the guides are wildlife spotters (and educators) extraordinaire.

Lowlight

Lack of obvious involvement with the Traditional Owners of the Cobourg Peninsula – the Arrarrkbi people – who jointly manage Garig Gunak Barlu National Park.

The writer travelled as a guest of Journey Beyond