This bargain hotel could be Dubai’s best spot for a layover

The hotel

Al Seef Heritage Hotel, Dubai, Curio Collection by Hilton.

Al Seef Heritage Hotel.

Check-in

Stepping into the lobby is to step back to when Dubai was a humble pearl trading village on the banks of the Dubai Creek. The 190-room hotel is spread across 10 houses in the Al Seef district, which was built five years ago as part of a regeneration project.

When booking, don’t be confused by the other two, more generic, Hiltons nearby, Canopy and Hamptons. Guests can sip a cocktail or jump in the Canopy’s rooftop pool, worth a visit for its views; a free hotel e-buggy runs between them.

The look

Cardamon-infused coffee and dates in the lobby.

The lobby is framed by sofas in the distinctive red, black and white weaves of the Gulf region. A tall coffee pot filled with fresh, cardamom-infused coffee sits beside a plate of dates on a round, etched-brass table, a traditional welcome for guests.

The bling-free, wood-and-mud-brick decoration continues throughout the hotel, with rustic Emirati furniture and fabrics.

The room

King Heritage room with a souq view.

There are 190 rooms, including nine accessible rooms, and mine is a King Heritage one-bedroom suite with a terrace. Opening the wooden shutters, I can see across flat rooftops to the creek and into the souq below.

My suite has two bathrooms, a lounge area and bedroom with a vast timber king bed; French doors open to the terrace. Wooden cabinetry hides a kettle and a coffee machine, with raked ceilings above and cool terrazzo underfoot. Mod cons include obligatory air-con. I play with the sweet, old manual typewriter, while the Bakelite rotary dial telephones and hurricane lamps have been modified for use in today’s world.

Food + drink

Saba’a Restaurant.

I have dinner in the hotel restaurant, Saba’a. Its menu offers Emirati dishes – its signature is the enormous mixed grill loaded with kofta, shish tawook and lamb chops, which could easily feed two – and such international basics as burgers and pasta. It does serve alcohol, though an icy lemon and mint juice is far more refreshing. I’m out early for a flight, so I miss the vast breakfast buffet, which gets rave reviews. Saba’a serves shisha on the terrace until 1am, and there’s 24-hour room service.

Out + about

Souq shopping.

You might think it’s twee, but for me, there’s a magic about the Al Seef district, with its car-free winding streets that follow the waterfront of Dubai Creek. Built in the old Emirati style, the district includes a stylised traditional souq, where you can snap up your galabeya (traditional long robe) or drink Arabic coffee (walk past the watered-down, American coffee house built into the mud-brick buildings). Visit the museums and textiles souq in the neighbouring Al Fahidi district or grab an abra (boat) at just 40 cents – yes, 40 cents – across the Creek to the far more touristy gold and spice souqs.

On repeat visits, I’ve bought small ceramic mugs handmade in Iran and a floor-length, embroidered abaya (cloak) of Syrian design.

Sweetly styled Local House Restaurant wins awards for its Emirati menu including camel burgers and shakes and ice-cream made from camel milk. Nablus cafe is a must-visit for the famous Palestinian version of the oozy, moreish Arabic dessert knafeh and good coffee. See localhousedxb.com; instagram.com/nablus.kanafeh

The verdict

Call me a romantic, call me nostalgic, but the hotel is a refreshing antidote to Dubai’s signature forest of skyscrapers; a charming reaction to generic globalisation. And at just 10 minutes from Dubai airport with cheap rates, it’s a viable option for a long layover between flights.

Essentials

Suites from $120 a night, children under 18 stay free if using existing beds. Dubai Creek, Al Seef Street, Umm Hurair 1, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. See hilton.com

Our score out of five
★★★★

Highlight

Often overlooked by visitors and locals alike, the romantic Al Seef district remembers traditional Emirati architecture, and with rates as low as $78 in the low, summer season, it’s a bargain.

Lowlight

The farthest houses are 15 minutes’ walk to the restaurant and reception, which might make you feel cut off from the hub of the hotel, although you can flag a buggy.

The writer stayed as a guest of Visit Dubai. See visitdubai.com/en