A spectacular five-star hotel in one of the wildest places on Earth
By Julie Miller
The hotel
Tierra Patagonia, Chile
The lounge revamped, the views remain the same.
Check-in
It may be located just beyond the border of Torres del Paine National Park, but when it comes to panoramic views of Patagonia’s soaring peaks, there’s no better place to be based than Tierra Patagonia. Guests are treated to IMAX-like theatricality as the massif beyond Lake Sarmiento flits and flirts with the shifting light, best enjoyed around a crackling log fire with signature cocktail calafate sour – a local variation of pisco sour, but made with Calafate berries – in hand.
The look
Carved into the hillside.
Curled into a barren hillside, this near-invisible structure – designed by Chilean architect Cazu Zegers in 2012 – is as timeless as the lakeside thrombolites it’s said to resemble, with the wind that whips over this bleak landscape the inspiration for the fluid interior, clad with locally sourced lenga wood. It’s as much a homage to the elements as a refuge from them – pure immersion into the environment. Whether tucked into a hanging egg chair with a book or wandering through gallery-like corridors, Tierra Patagonia begs you to stay put, all the while beckoning guests to venture out into that alluring, wild environment. A recent revamp of the lounge area has expanded communal seating around a central fireplace, while a 3D contour map adds context to activity-planning.
The room
Room with a view.
Each of Tierra Patagonia’s 40 guestrooms enjoys grandstand views of the snow-capped range, with minimalist decor inviting the great expanse in. Warm lenga-clad walls, furniture crafted from driftwood, handwoven Tehuelche textiles, perchable window-sills and snuggly sheepskin rugs give a sense of place; while a clever pillar-box window above the bathtub ensures you never miss a second of that view.
Food + drink
The bar and dining area.
Adventure-filled days are rewarded with hearty three-course dinners honouring the flavours of Patagonia, with an ever-changing menu featuring ingredients sourced from local estancias and the Straits of Magellan. Favourites include Patagonian lamb, king crab and even – for the unsentimental – guanaco; and while the menu tends to be meat-heavy, vegetarian options are available. Packed lunches are provided for all-day excursions, and a trail mix bar provides fuel for hiking. The circular bar becomes a hub for post-excursion boasting, plus there’s a good selection of Chilean wines to accompany meals.
Out + about
Never know what you’ll see – a patagonian puma.
As enticing as the hotel is, most guests come to Patagonia for adventure, with Tierra Patagonia’s program of complementary excursions designed to maximise time spent exploring the four distinct sections of the vast national park. Hiking trails lead through prime puma territory to caves adorned with ancient paintings, and to viewpoints of the dramatic Cuernos (horns) of the Paine massif; or saddle up with baqueanos (Patagonian gauchos) to explore estancia life. Longer excursions include the challenging Base of the Towers hike or a cruise to the Grey Glacier in the western extremity of the park.
The verdict
There’s good reason this property – now part of Baillie Lodges’ portfolio – is consistently awarded as one of the best in Latin America, with a recent makeover freshening common spaces and upgrading the excursion-planning experience.
Essentials
A three-night minimum stay at Tierra Patagonia from $US2094 ($3290) a night including all meals, beverages, daily excursions and transfers from Puerto Natales airport. Several rooms are suitable for people with disabilities. The property is closed from May 1 to September 30. See tierrapatagonia.com
Our rating out of five
★★★★★
Highlight
The views from the pool are a highlight.
A dip in the glass-fronted indoor infinity pool is the perfect way to end a day exploring, spotting grazing guanacos and even the resident culpeo (Andean fox) as you soak up the views.
Lowlight
Unadjustable central heating tends towards the warm side, with the only option to open windows to modify temperature.
The writer was a guest of Tierra Hotels (tierrahotels.com) and LATAM Airlines (latamairlines.com).
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