Australia’s oldest wine region has a slick new retreat

The place

The Lane Retreat, Pokolbin

Poolside solitude.

Check-in

Despite the Hunter Valley vineyard setting (with vines first planted in 1968), it’s all mod cons here, including at check-in. An entry keycode is sent to your mobile phone so you can access your retreat directly on arrival (if you encounter any issues – an Optus outage, say – there’s an office that’s staffed from 7am until 10pm). This new accommodation comprising 60 smart black cabins is part of the nearby Bimbadgen winery, which also includes Esca restaurant and the Palmers Lane event space, so it’s perfect for weddings and groups. Retreats are grouped in different clusters, so check when booking if you want to be with friends or separate – there are two that are on their own.

The look

Sipping among the vines.

With uninterrupted views over vines, fig trees and red volcanic soil to the Barrington ranges, the country location is immediately restorative, although the newly planted landscaping needs time to get established and soften the surroundings. There’s a central pool area with sun loungers and ice machine, and it’s a short walk to The Pantry, where you’ll find barista coffee, wine, canned Night Merchant cocktails (featuring gin and vodka distilled at the winery) and a fridgeful of cheeses and charcuterie for an instant antipasto platter. There’s also a selection of homewares, accessories and books (including Ultimate Food & Drink by Traveller’s Ben Groundwater, with its handy chapter on the Hunter Valley among other wine regions).

The room

All the mod cons in Australia’s oldest wine region.

Earthy greens and terracottas complement the native colours outside, while generously sized bathrooms include a double sink and shower, curved mirrors and good lighting. There are comfortable armchairs, table seating for two and a small kitchenette with microwave. Breakfast is delivered daily and might include granola, fruit compote, yoghurt and a quiche Lorraine with tomato chutney. There are cold-pressed juices and an espresso machine. The TV has free-to-air channels but you can also Chromecast your favourite streaming service. Floor to ceiling glass doors mean you can enjoy those views from bed, and the private deck is a peaceful spot for sunrise tea or sunset drinks as kangaroos bound across the paddocks.

Ensuites are generously sized.

Food + drink

Bimbadgen winery – a few minutes’ drive away and easy to spot with its signature bell tower – houses a cellar door, large outdoor terrace with wood-fired pizza oven (perfect on a sunny weekend) and Esca, the more formal dining offer, currently helmed by chef Keira Madeley. You’ll find well executed modern classics such as a dense focaccia with housemade butter and shiraz sea salt, octopus with nduja, and pea risotto with asparagus and mint. Bimbadgen’s elevated position also delivers more of those expansive vineyard views. Nearby Emma’s Cottage at Lovedale is the sister property, where you can taste the Alter (as in alter ego) range of boutique wines, also produced by winemaker Richard Done.

Upscale restaurant Esca at nearby Bimbadgen winery.

Out + about

This is Australia’s oldest wine region, so there are plenty of cellar doors to check out, though remember you’ll need to book a wine tasting ahead of time at most wineries these days. Other activities beyond endless vino (if you need them) are hot-air ballooning, e-biking, golf and detoxing spa treatments – try the Elysia Wellness Retreat.

The verdict

A very comfortable Hunter Valley stay, with myriad options for wine-tasting, good food and relaxation. The breakfast supplies were a step up from most and well thought out to be freshly combined (or warmed) the following morning.

Our daily morning supplies are well considered.

The essentials

Opening special from $309 a night including breakfast for two guests and a bottle of Bimbadgen’s sparkling wine. Valid for stays to December 14, 2023. The Lane Retreat, 409 Palmers Ln, Pokolbin, NSW 2320. Phone: [phone]. See thelaneretreat.com.au

Our rating out of five

★★★★

Highlight Sitting on the deck overlooking the vineyards and mountains at sunset.

Lowlight This is a newly built resort, so will take a bit of time to feel established.

The writer stayed as a guest of The Lane Retreat.