Unknown, unsung: Turkey’s capital is nothing like Istanbul

“It’s not really a tourist town,” says our waiter Furkan, “half the population are government workers, the other half university students.” This doesn’t sound like a bad thing.

My partner and I sit in a restaurant in Taksim, central Istanbul. Within a few hundred metres bubble tea, H&M and iPhones are all on sale, as in any hip cosmopolitan hub.

The Turkish capital, Ankara, on the other hand, is less homogenous. It lists no Airbnb Experiences and most museums are state-run. Having studied languages at Ankara University, Furkan WhatsApps me a list far longer than 24 hours will allow.

Traditional Ottoman houses in Ankara.Credit: iStock

The next afternoon we arrive via high-speed train at Ankara’s new station and after a white-knuckled peak-hour ride, our taxi pulls onto the cobblestones in front of the Divan Cukurhan.

Splashing out on this five-star hotel is a strategic move. It is an oasis from the dust located in the heart of the sunbaked old town. The tastefully decorated rooms surround a wooden mezzanine overlooking an interior water feature.

Unfortunately, there is no time to bask in the air-conditioning. Our 24 hours will be divided between the city’s two halves: student and government (or official).

For the former, Furkan recommended we visit the town’s centre. We are soon walking down a long plaza flanked by cafes and restaurants.

Wicker gazebos and fountain in an Ankara public square.Credit: iStock

Student life in central Turkey involves more discretion than in the Jagerbombing West. The secular country’s relationship with the strictures of Islam have ebbed and flowed over time and space. In Istanbul anything goes, but further east, religious observance begins to influence city planning; in Ankara, most students sit plaza-side enjoying coffees, not alcohol.

For a drink, my partner and I find a parallel alley with bars all located in a single building. Climbing the stairs to the second floor we catch a happy hour from a balcony that overlooks an installation of fading umbrellas forming a canopy, as students below them flirt, strut or gaze into their phones.

For dinner, we go in search of mezze and find Safie Meyhane Kızılay, which according to Furkan “you can only go with your loveable people”. By now my partner and I are well versed in mezze, the dips forming the load-bearing pillar of Turkish cuisine. At Safie the heavily starched white-shirted waiters take control. Tray after tray of tapenades, sour creams, salsas and salads are laid out until our table is full – far too much for us. They refuse to let us take the leftovers and instead we close with big fleshy slices of watermelon.

Historic Ankara Castle.Credit: iStock

The next morning we awake early. Today will be the official half of historical Ankara, beginning with a morning stroll through Ankara Castle and the old town.

Fortifications began in the eighth century BC, eventually becoming the castle now perched above the smog and chaos of the city. Its narrow alleys and squares with fountains provide glimpses over the city, all best explored now in the quiet morning as store owners are still wheeling out their wares.

Soon we are in another taxi, destination Anitkabir, the tomb of the Turkish republic’s founder, Mustafa Kemal “Ataturk”, a place that, in the words of Furkan, is “really important for Turkish people”.

We arrive under the blaring sun. Built in 1941, the neoclassical architecture of this complex presents an austere monument, the avenue leading in lined with statues of lions, men and women.

Anitkabir – the Ataturk Mausoleum.Credit: iStock

We reach the main building, which sits atop steps overlooking a square and is imposing to the point of intimidating. Guards flank the entrances, silently sweating. While we cannot enter the tomb as one can the mausoleums of some historical giants, the intent here is the same: to commemorate a man in death by transforming him into a national monument.

The museum inside is a catalogue of Ataturk’s achievements, with a full-sized diorama of Gallipoli and another of the Turkish War of Independence after World War I.

These display Ataturk’s military prowess while emphasising his humanity. Further on in the exhibition his nation-building abilities are presented. There is perhaps a faint whiff of whitewash. No doubt Ataturk’s achievements were monumental, although no one can be this perfect.

I check the time. Twenty-four hours is almost up. While packing at the hotel, I begin to regret not enjoying the room’s comforts enough.

Soon, in another white-knuckle taxi ride, this time back to Ankara Station, I fight the nausea, looking down as the taxi swerves, to send a message to Furkan thanking him. “I’m glad I could help you,” he says, as gracious as ever.

The details

Fly
As Turkey’s capital, Ankara Esenboga Airport is served by many major and budget airlines, with direct flights from European and Middle Eastern cities.

Train
The high-speed rail takes four hours from Istanbul and is cheaper, more efficient and greener than flying. There are 15 services each day, economy seats are $15, while business class goes at $50, available 29 days in advance and can be bought via ebilet.tcddtasimacilik.gov.tr, a travel agent or the station itself.

Stay
The Divan Cukurhan (divan.com.tr) was $200 a night, booked well in advance. There are cheaper options down in the city.

See + do
Kizilay metro is the intersection of three lines and can be a jumping-off spot for central Ankara’s food and nightlife. Visiting Anitkabir is free, although it is good to bring water on hot days.

The writer travelled at his own expense.