The window-view surprise that took my breath away

It’s one of those “Where were you” moments. Where were you when you had your first drive? Where were you when Queen Elizabeth died? And where were you when you saw your first iceberg?

The answer to that last question is sitting comfortably in seat 23k of flight QF1330 as a hulking lump of ice the size of a small building appears out of slushy sea ice in the aptly named Iceberg Bay. It’s a sight that triggers an excited buzz through the Boeing 787 Dreamliner as passengers marvel at the immensity below. But, as we learn over the next four hours, the real fascination of Antarctica is what is happening beneath the surface.

The Transantarctic Mountains, as seen on the Antarctica Flights journey out of Sydney.Credit: Liam Phelan

If you have ever wondered what the frozen wilderness to our south is like, but don’t have the time, or tens of thousands of dollars, to commit to a cruise, Australian company Antarctica Flights offers flyovers from our capital cities to one of the harshest and most beautiful places on Earth. The trip takes about 12 hours and the company leases a jet and crew from Qantas.

Almost five hours after take-off, the ocean ice appears, followed by the Balleny Islands.

Their waters are home to humpback whales which feed on krill. Dr Vanessa Pirotta shares her infectious passion about whales – she literally wrote the book. The scientist explains how east coast whales swim from Hervey Bay past Sydney and Melbourne to end up beneath our wings, fattening themselves on krill during summer.

“Flying here gives an opportunity to learn about the journey of one of the greatest creatures on Earth. They don’t just feed here, they fertilise the ocean, sequester carbon. They help with the ocean food cycle that ultimately affects humans too,” Pirotta, an ambassador for Antarctic Science Foundation, says.

Former pilot Greg Fitzgerald brings a wealth of experience and passion on his 32nd flight as guide. “It gets under your skin. No matter how many times you do it, it’s a thrill to see.”

The other guide is Peter Hicks, a glaciologist who spent months in Casey, one of three Australian stations. He endured 70 days on the ice and recounts falling into a crevasse. There’s a good demarcation between Hicks, who covers ice, glaciers and sea frost, and Fitzgerald, who explains flight details and human history.

It’s a land of superlatives: the coldest, windiest and driest continent. We pass over Cape Adare, where humans first set foot in 1895 on a land many didn’t believe existed. The landing was by Norwegian explorers and financiers – but Fitzgerald notes a 17-year-old New Zealander, Alexander von Tunzelmann, may have been the first ashore as he held the boat while more senior crew disembarked.

Amid tales of Ernest Shackleton, Robert Scott and Australian Douglas Mawson, Fitzgerald names lesser-known explorers such as Hubert Wilkins.

The plane banks up to 25 degrees, finding breaks in clouds and maximising views. Window seats are shared, with a changeover at midway.

Mount Minto rises more than 4000 metres above sea level. It was first climbed by Greg Mortimer and Lincoln Hall. Credit: Antarctica Flights

One of the surprises that takes your breath away is the size of the mountains, with Mount Minto majestic at 4165 metres. It was climbed in 1988 by New Zealand and Australian adventurers Lincoln Hall and Greg Mortimer.

From the Admiralty mountains, we skim over Rennick Glacier. Hicks explains how glaciers are formed and the different speeds at which they move – nearby Tucker Glacier is one of the “faster-moving” ones. “In terms of glaciers, this is a happening place,” he says, his words at odds with the stillness below.

After almost four hours, we head north. Cabin crew deliver our second meal and passengers relax, watch movies and reflect.

Ice is the memory of the world, writes James Bradley in Deep Water, and it’s easy to lose yourself in contemplation of deep time – Australian scientists are drilling for ice cores dating back a million years.

Our flight manager is Bas Bosschieter – chief executive of Captain’s Choice, the company that runs Antarctica Flights.

“We carbon-offset every flight,” he says. “It’s part of our passion for the area. These flights are not just about sightseeing – they educate the public about one of the world’s last great wildernesses.”

Two flights leave Melbourne on New Year’s Eve to celebrate Antarctica Flights’ 30th anniversary. Sydneysiders can fly on January 26. Prices start at $1200 economy through to $8000 for business class. For more information go to Antarctica Flights.

The writer travelled as a guest of Antarctica Flights.