The unique natural feature that powers New Zealand’s biggest spa

I tentatively pull the chain, and ice-cold water drips onto my shivering body. Rookie error. I change tack and quickly upend the ice-water bucket, dousing myself in water that a polar bear would find brisk. The only thing left to do is to rub ice shavings on my goose-pimpled skin. I take a deep breath and grab a handful of chipped ice from a bucket, quickly covering myself in the shavings before moving on to the next step.

Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa in Rotorua, New Zealand has unobstructed views of Lake Rotorua.Credit: Graeme Murray

I’m part of the way through the Restorative Journey and Sanctuary Bathing at Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa. So far, I would wholeheartedly agree on the restorative element. I began with Waterfall Showers, a walk beneath a canopy of aromatic sprays, before proceeding to the Tongariro Fire and Ice Cave experience, where I lingered beyond the suggested 10 minutes in each of the three saunas before facing the frigid bucket cascade.

But it’s the next step that I’m looking forward to the most.

Five pools, the two largest of which offer unobstructed views of picturesque Lake Rotorua, are set within an airy, open space that beautifully integrates with the natural surroundings. I recall that you’re meant to move from pool to pool, but I can’t quite remember if there’s a recommended order or even how long I’m supposed to spend here before moving on to the mud pool. By now I realise that I probably should have paid more attention when I was walked through the bathing process. Nonetheless, I’m content to just soak in it all.

Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa, the largest naturally heated spa in the southern hemisphere, is designed around manaakitanga – the ancient concept of welcoming visitors – and healing practices, or ngati whakaue. This ethos is woven into the award-winning architectural design of the building, and its unique spa and wellness experiences. The Rotorua region’s hot springs, bubbling mud pools and geysers play an integral role in the local Maori’s traditional healing practices and has so for generations.

Traditional Maori figures at the spa’s entrance.Credit: Graeme Murray

Although the spa is 4453 square metres in size, it doesn’t overwhelm the visitor. Two spa areas feature numerous geothermal mineral-rich pools, saunas, a mud room, a mist facility, showers, baths and spaces for massage and facials, along with an eatery, gift shop and plenty of open space.

It’s a one-stop shop, but when it comes to relaxation, that’s exactly what you need. I’m told groups often spend the whole day here. With bathing and food on site, there is no need to leave.

Linger in one of the spa’s three saunas.

The five pools I spend more than an hour in are located in Wai Whakaora the larger of the spa’s two distinctive areas, while the second area, Te Ahuru Mowai is where guests go for traditional Maori massages, facials, body treatments and more bathing.

Bathing is a central focus here and with Rotorua’s unique geothermal activity supplying a natural source of mineral-rich waters, it’s no surprise that the spa makes the most of the water’s therapeutic properties.

The final stage of the journey involves a self-applied mud body mask. I scoop out the mineral-rich, essential oil-infused mud from a wooden vat and slather myself in the mixture. Then I recline on one of the heated reclining seats to let it dry. After 10 minutes, I feel the mask cracking and tightening, prompting me to move to the steam room for a rinse-off.

Applying mineral-rich mud is one of the therapuetic treatments available.Credit: Graeme Murray

It’s dark in the steam room, and for some reason, I feel as if life is moving in slow motion. The steam veils my body and the mud softens. As I rinse it off, it’s as if I’m washing away much more than just mud. It’s as if my layers of stress and tension are dissolving into nothingness. I know it won’t last long, though.

Wai Ariki Hot Springs & Spa is an adults-only spa and I’ve taken longer than anticipated. I know my husband and kids are outside waiting, probably wondering if I’ve decided to take up permanent residence here.

The details

Visit
The two-hour Restorative Journey and Sanctuary Bathing at Wai Ariki Hot Springs and Spa costs NZD$155 ($139). Massage from NZD$195; body treatments from NZD$275.
See wai-ariki.co.nz

Stay
The family-friendly Ripple Rotorua offers comfortable units, some with outdoor hot tubs, along with an onsite restaurant, a heated swimming pool and a games room. From NZD$220 a night.
See ripplerotorua.co.nz

Eat
There is an onsite cafe but other options in town include Pig & Whistle, The Fainting Goat and Capers Cafe + Store. See pigandwhistle.co.nz, thefaintinggoat.co.nz and capers.co.nz

The writer was a guest of RotoruaNZ. See rotoruanz.com