The South African safari lodge where the animals come to you

The generally accepted premise of a safari is that we humans have to venture into the bush to find the animals. The wildlife at Simbavati River Lodge, however, doesn’t appear to have got this memo. As we’re being shown to our rooms, we pass several nyala antelope nonchalantly grazing next to the path and a troop of vervet monkeys grooming each other in a tree. The staff tell us they’ve had lions, leopards and cheetahs on the property and one lady even got stuck in the spa because there was an elephant grazing outside.

Nature up close at Simbavati River Lodge.

One reason for this is a lack of fences. Not only is the lodge not fenced, meaning that any of the 40 or so mammal species (including the Big Five) that live in the surrounding 53,000-hectare Timbavati Private Nature Reserve can wander in at will, but also the reserve isn’t fenced, so any animal roaming the surrounding 2.2-million-hectare Greater Kruger Park can pop in and say g’day (don’t worry, watchmen accompany guests around the property at night).

The second reason is the lodge’s position next to the Nhlaralumi River, which is a popular watering hole for all manner of creatures, particularly elephants. The lodge’s elevated alfresco dining deck provides front-row seats to this frequent spectacle, and when we first arrive, a herd of elephants is just leaving the area, tossing great plumes of dirt over themselves as they go.

The lodge itself is relatively small, with only 11 rooms, but provides an impressively wide range of facilities. There’s a two-treatment-room spa, an air-conditioned gym, a kids’ club and an open-sided lounge and bar that spills out onto the dining deck. It also caters to an impressively varied range of guests, thanks to six luxury tented rooms with private decks for couples and three two-bedroom chalets that are perfect for families.

Most safari lodges don’t allow children under six, but here, they’re welcome. Although they’re not permitted to go out on a game drive with other guests (families can, however, hire a private vehicle), they’re well looked after at the Cubs Club kids’ centre, with activities from painting and scrapbooking to archery and treasure hunts. There’s also a babysitting service, so parents can indulge in a spa treatment or that rarest of treats – an afternoon nap.

Poolside at the lodge.

The lodge follows the tried-and-tested program of a 5am wake-up call (made easier by freshly brewed coffee) followed by a three-hour morning safari, with another three-hour outing after a wholly unnecessary but oh-go-on-then afternoon tea (all the food is homemade, locally sourced and delicious). I could spend six paragraphs listing all the wildlife we see on our two game drives, but highlights include a pride of lions feasting on a wildebeest carcass, a satiated leopard having a post-meal pant in a tree, and an inquisitive hyena called Lucy who saunters over while we’re enjoying a gin tasting at a pop-up bar in the bushveld.

Because we’re in a private reserve, we can follow game off-road, and thanks to the comparatively small number of lodges in Timbavati, when you do find something, you’ll probably be the only ones there.

Despite all this, our most memorable encounter happens back at the lodge. While eating breakfast on our final morning, a stream of elephants arrives at the watering hole next to the deck. Soon, there’s a herd of around 15, including an adorable calf who charges around, ears flapping wildly and trunk flailing like an out-of-control fire hose. We abandon our breakfasts and gather at the edge of the deck, mere metres from the herd, to watch spellbound while they drink, feed and play. Who needs a jeep when the animals come to you?

THE DETAILS

TOUR
African specialist This is Africa has almost 25 years experience, and offers all-inclusive packages, group tours and tailor-made itineraries. See thisisafrica.com.au

STAY
Rates at Simbavati River Lodge start at R9850 ($825) a person (twin-share) and include accommodation, two daily safaris, all meals, most drinks and a return transfer from Hoedspruit Airport. See simbavati.com

FLY
Qantas flies to Hoedspruit via Johannesburg in conjunction with Airlink. The lodge is a 90-minute drive from Hoedspruit Airport. See qantas.com

The writer was a guest of South African Tourism (southafrica.net) and This is Africa.