The other side to Thailand’s beach party town

I have traveller’s remorse. Not for the things I did but the things I didn’t do. And I hate to admit I have been a repeat offender, visiting Phuket three times and rarely venturing outside the Patong beach bubble.

For whatever reason, I thought I had done it all: exploring the island’s megaresorts, its shopping and its pumping nightlife. Day trips to Phi Phi Islands and Karon Beach ticked off too.

If only I had known a different side to Phuket was just a tuk-tuk ride away.

Colourful Sino-Portuguese houses in Old Phuket Town.Credit: iStock

Thankfully, I can right my wrongs on my fourth trip to Thailand’s biggest island. Patong and its infamous party strip, Bangla Road, is off the agenda. Yet I will still be dazed by colour and motifs, albeit less neon and in your face, exploring Phuket’s Old Town in the island’s heart.

The historic district is roughly 30 minutes’ drive (depending on traffic) from Patong, yet its 10 streets are a world away from the tourist hotspot’s high-rises and noisy entertainment venues that vie for your baht.

It is rich in history and its influences come from far and wide. The island was an important trading port for Chinese and Indian settlers. The first Europeans, the Portuguese, arrived in the 16th century. The Dutch followed shortly after.

A tin mining boom in the 18th and 19th centuries changed everything. British merchants and Chinese labourers descended on the island to seek their “gold” disguised as silvery rock.

Phuket Old Town’s century-old buildings fuse Chinese and European design elements.Credit: iStock

The boom may be over, but traces of Phuket’s prosperous period live on. The Old Town’s blend of cultures is reflected in its Sino-Portuguese architecture, which was erected after the mining boom. Its century-old buildings fuse Chinese and European design elements such as decorative stuccowork, wooden doors and arched windows.

A rainbow on earth was created when facades were splashed with striking hues: lime green, sky blue, canary yellow, pastel pink. The colourful paint jobs actually showed great foresight, as the quarter is gaining momentum with tourists and avid photographers thanks to social media.

My first stop is Thalang Road, the district’s main thoroughfare. Dubbed Phuket Walking Street, the strip could rival neighbouring Penang’s Kek Chuan Road and Singapore’s Haji Lane for colour and charm. Many of its Sino-Portuguese-style two-storey shophouses have been beautifully restored and converted into guesthouses, shops and restaurants.

A vendor at Lard Yai, Phuket’s Sunday night market.Credit: iStock

Each Sunday from 4pm, the eye-catching boulevard morphs into a massive street market. The evening market attracts more than 20,000 people as it becomes a one-stop shop for live entertainment, food stalls selling southern Thai cuisine, and souvenirs celebrating the area’s heritage.

Although the stars do not align for a visit to the night market, I am still captivated by how animated the street is during the day. I perfect U-turns, walking in and out of boutiques selling everyday chic and frou-frou garments. I excel at looking the part of a shopaholic, holding bags just as bright as the shop frontages.

Turning off into Soi Romanee, it’s another story. The narrow strip is congested with people stopping to pose in front of its gorgeous, boldly coloured houses and Instragrammable street art. Festoon lights hang over the passage’s midway point, reinforcing the road’s festive image all year round.

I enter popular Thai dessert shop Pornthip Oldtown and head upstairs. There’s durian soup on the menu, and even though I may be far enough away from the masses so as not to repel people with its pungent smell, I opt for mango sticky rice. My sudden sweet-tooth cravings are actually driven by a tourist hack: accessing a lookout free of charge by making a purchase.

Mango with sticky rice.Credit: iStock

As I wait for the treat to come to my table, I head to the balcony and peer out beneath its white European-style archway for a bird’s-eye view of the street – from above, its scenescape is even more picturesque.

On closer inspection, I notice black electricity wires appearing as tangled ribbons across the buildings. I’m undecided whether the twisted mess, which I wouldn’t wish upon any electrician to solve, is a blight or whether it gives the street character.

Other relics of Phuket’s tin-mining riches can be seen in Chinese temples, cultural museums and mansions in neighbouring streets.

These preserved buildings are front and centre in a drive to get Phuket Old Town on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and while the quarter is yet to receive its desired status, when awarded, I am sure the heritage hotspot will experience its next boom.

The details

Fly
Jetstar flies direct to Phuket from Sydney and Melbourne. See jetstar.com

Stay
Mida Grande Resort has rooms from $119. See midagrandephuket.com

The writer was a guest of the Tourism Authority of Thailand.