The one day that Bali is still peaceful and silent

It’s the eve of Nyepi – Hindu New Year – a day of silence that only occurs in Bali. Final touches are made to an enormous papier-mâché effigy, known as Ogoh-Ogoh, lifted onto the shoulders of bare-chested Balinese men in monochrome sarongs. As the procession sets off, holy water is sprinkled while lantern smoke wafts into the balmy air. Cymbals clang at a frenetic pace, and bamboo sticks bang loudly as we are swept up in the hypnotic parade.

We follow the gruesome-looking Ogoh-Ogoh, standing 2.75 metres tall, as it winds its way through AYANA Bali. Every 100 metres or so, the mask-wearing Ogoh-Ogoh is spun in circles to chase away evil spirits. We eventually merged with another procession carrying a second Ogoh-Ogoh, also commissioned for Pengrupukan Day from artists and villages in Jimbaran and Gianyar.

Ogoh-Ogoh on parade.

Each Balinese village crafts its own Ogoh-Ogoh – symbolising negative elements, malevolent spirits or characters from Hindu mythology – and dances it through the streets to chase evil spirits away before the new year begins.

This Nyepi marks a significant milestone for AYANA Bali, given it’s the first celebrated in conjunction with the newly opened SAKA Museum. The elegant two-storey cultural centre at the entrance of the 90-hectare estate takes visitors on a journey into Nyepi and the artistic and cultural expressions connected to the Balinese principle of Tri Hita Karana (the Balinese traditional philosophy for life).

Balinese scholar and author Professor I Made Bandem tells us the museum pays homage to the Balinese Saka calendar – an ancient Hindu solar calendar adapted by the Balinese and dictated by the cycles of the moon. It houses a growing collection of Balinese artefacts and 10 imposing ogoh-ogoh effigies. “We want to introduce Balinese culture to guests and give them a deeper understanding of Nyepi,” he says.

It’s been a decade since I stayed at the sprawling AYANA Bali, now made up of four properties – AYANA Resort, AYANA Villas, AYANA Segara and RIMBA by AYANA. It’s late when we arrive at our private pool villa, with sweeping ocean vistas from its clifftop perch above Jimbaran Bay. A frangipani-filled bath is drawn invitingly.

The new SAKA cultural museum at AYANA Bali.

All 78 spacious villas offer a sanctuary where butlers on call 24/7 ferry guests in golf carts along winding stone pathways across the lush, rambling property. We enjoy phenomenal à la carte breakfasts at Dava, lazy lunches at poolside Sami Sami and rooftop drinks at Luna Rooftop Bar. A family of monkeys even visits our villa early one morning.

But it’s Nyepi when Bali falls silent – airports closed, travel restricted, bars and restaurants shuttered – that I’m most anticipating. We’re asked to draw our drapes as lights are dimmed and shut off across the island. The Balinese staff are excited as we foreigners get to experience Nyepi in stark contrast to Bali’s typically clogged roads and yoga studios, beach clubs, restaurants and bars heaving with tourists.

It’s a bit like that other religious holiday – Christmas – as we wake to deserted streets and no flights in and out of Denpasar Airport. Everyone is expected to stay indoors (hotels and villas still have food and beverage outlets open), and no travel is allowed.

We spend an entire guilt-free day within the resort confines, reading by the pool, enjoying a traditional Balinese massage and dining by candlelight. Cloud cover means the much-anticipated star-gazing, minus Bali’s usual light pollution, doesn’t eventuate. However, just as we are about to hop into bed the clouds part and there they are shining bright.

THE DETAILS

STAY
A one-bedroom ocean view villa at AYANA Villas Bali costs from $US1033 ($1551) a night in low season, including breakfast and a complimentary 60-minute Thalassotherapy pool experience for two with a minimum two-night stay. Nyepi packages will be offered to coincide with the Balinese New Year in 2025. See ayana.com/bali

VISIT
AYANA Bali guests currently have free entry to the SAKA Museum, which will officially open later this year. An entry fee will be charged to the general public. See sakamuseum.org

FLY
Qantas operates multiple flights each week from Melbourne and daily flights between Sydney and Denpasar. Jetstar operates a game-changing daytime flight between Denpasar and Sydney. See qantas.com; jetstar.com

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The writer was a guest of AYANA Resort Bali.