The ‘Maldives of Indonesia’ is on our doorstep, yet no one’s heard of it

Have you heard of Astabun Island? Of course you haven’t, and there’s no shame in that. It’s only one of the 65 Tanimbar Islands, and I hadn’t even heard of those, although I’ve been to many obscure places in Indonesia.

And yet, the Tanimbar Islands, 550 kilometres north of Darwin, are one of the closest parts of Indonesia to Australia. I spot them from the deck of Scenic Eclipse II early one morning: low-lying, densely forested, crimped with beaches pure as washing powder.

Zodiacs exploring Wayag Island in Raja Ampat.

These islands could be another Maldives, but Indonesia has islands to spare, so they go overlooked except by the 130,000 people who live there and the occasional ornithologist hoping to spot rare endemic birds.

Like so much of the staggering archipelago that sits to our north, the Tanimbar Islands are hard to get to except by expedition cruise, in which case you can get there in pampered ease.

Scenic Eclipse II has wafted me here from Cairns by way of Lizard Island and Thursday Island and, as I devour eggs benedict in the soothing air-conditioning of the Yacht Club restaurant, the sweaty expedition team is doing all the hard work.

Off Wayag Island in Raja Ampat.

I only have to step into an inflatable boat and soon I’m splashing ashore like Robinson Crusoe, though I doubt Crusoe was handed a towel and chilled mimosa on the beach by a waiter in an ironed uniform.

The beach would be on bucket lists except that Indonesia must have thousands more just like it. The sand is so fine it squeaks. Rock formations topped by bonsaied trees create a pretty backdrop. Crabs create the only footprints before our arrival.

The water is blue as… well, nothing else, because nothing but shallow tropical water is as blue as this: an electric shock that jolts you from your mundane, colourless existence. In I wade. I float on my back and couldn’t be happier to be back in Indonesia, and yet 1800 kilometres from Bali.

It’s shocking how unfamiliar Australians are with Indonesia, but perhaps understandable given its islands’ remoteness and the inadequacies of its infrastructure and hotels. An expedition cruise solves those problems, and Scenic Eclipse II does so in spades.

Scenic Eclipse II on location.

This hybrid ship, part luxury yacht and part expedition vessel, carries 228 guests in very roomy comfort. The all-inclusive dining is a standout: Mediterranean, Asian, French, and one of the best lunch buffets at sea for quality and ever-changing choice.

As we glide from island to island, butlers cater to whims on the ship, while off it the expedition team of naturalists and marine biologists gets us into villages and onto reefs.

It feels like a cheat to arrive in such out-of-the-way places with such ease, but the sense of remoteness and adventure isn’t lost. Next day we’re in the Kai Islands, another beautiful archipelago undiscovered except – to judge from a few rickety beach huts and bars – by a handful of intrepid backpackers.

We have kilometres of palm-fringed beach to ourselves. The expedition team takes us on inflatable boats to a floating pontoon set up for snorkelling above a seabed bulging with improbable corals and a carnival of brightly painted fish.

Sunset drinks on Scenic Eclipse II.

Next on our itinerary is a thriller for me, since I’ve read a lot about the history of the Spice Islands. Banda Neira’s setting is magnificent, overlooking harbour-like waters framed in islands and topped by a volcano.

Locals greet our arrival in kora-koras. The long traditional war canoes hold 30 bare-chested paddlers and a drummer to beat the rhythm.

Nothing warlike about the villagers, though. Friendly hellos and children’s giggles accompany us as a local guide takes us to a Dutch-era fortress and plantations fragrant with nutmeg and cinnamon. Later I have time to explore the fish market and a Chinese temple on my own. Cats and kids loiter on doorsteps.

As we zigzag through Indonesia, its diversity of history, landscapes, cultures, religions and wildlife is an eyeopener and highlighted on shore excursions and in daily on-board briefings by Scenic’s expedition team.

We’ve crossed the Lydekker Line that separates two biogeographic zones, and will soon cross the Weber Line and the famous Wallace Line too.

We hop from Christian to Muslim to Hindu islands. Alor has a Protestant majority, animistic tendencies, 15 Papuan languages and Malay and Dutch influences.

Traditional Caci Dance on Flores.

It’s the first of a long chain of big islands that leads west towards Bali, all rugged and volcano-pimpled, some dense with rainforest, others scrubby and stark.

The early morning sail into Alor down a narrow channel between islands is magical. Mist hovers on the blue hills, dolphins dance at the bow of the ship, and jellyfish swarm in the clear water as if intent on pointillist performance art.

Alor’s markets are crammed with leafy greens, papayas and fish. Welcoming villages hunkered in rainforest clack to the sound of ikat-weaving looms. Smaller confetti islands offer afternoon snorkelling above corals that look like modern sculptures

The fish have an outrageous sense of fashion and are covered in splatters of polka dots and stripes, and festooned with trailing fins and feathery tails.

As we sail away, I’m on the Sky Deck, cocktail in hand, ice cubes clinking. At other times I might be on the Observation Terrace at the sleek ship’s prow or in Azure Cafe at the rear, enjoying a properly made coffee, excellent pastry and the cheerfulness of the waiters, who are the friendliest of any ship I’ve ever sailed on.

That evening I’m back in Koko’s Asian Fusion, tucking into Thai coconut soup, honey and saffron prawns, and the delicious Filipino pork dish, sisig. The following evening, I’m in Lumiere for a degustation menu, terrific from the first mushroom-rich amuse-bouche and caramelised French onion soup to the final Normandy tart with cinnamon gelato.

Koko’s Asian Fusion restaurant on Scenic Eclipse II.

And so the days pass, each one a snapshot of Indonesia’s wonders. Larantuka on Flores Island with its Catholic cathedral that resembles a pink Disney castle. Kelimutu National Park, where we hike up to crater lakes coloured paint-pot blue. Komodo with its 150-kilo lizards.

Everybody wants to see Komodo dragons, but the surprise of Komodo is its landscape of slumped mountains, perky volcanoes and magnificently green and rumpled bays. The sand is pink, the water patterned with coral reefs.

Another wonderful afternoon is spent snorkelling and paddle boarding, zooming about on a quiet, battery-driven Seabob scooter, and drinking cocktails at the pop-up beach bar manned by Scenic crew.

On the move with a Seabob.

Then I return to the cool spaciousness of my stateroom to find everything tidied and serene. Drinks at the Scenic Bar. An informative recap by the expedition team in the theatre. Dinner in Elements: onion marmalade and camembert tart with honey, charred yellowfin tuna steak with ginger citrus soy.

We’re getting much closer to Bali now, but it still seems a world away. Sumbawa Island hardly gets any tourists in comparison. It has a strong Makassarese culture, and we’re privileged to see water-buffalo races: a short but thrilling spectacle of mud, water, animal muscle and the skill of villagers who ride on a fragile wooden sledge between two galloping buffaloes.

We’ve been on the go for two weeks and only in Lombok does the external tourist world intrude when we anchor off Senggigi, which has a row of resorts and bars.

But I’m off on an excursion to Mambalan, a village surrounded in rice paddies. Village visits have been a highlight of this journey, showcasing traditional crafts and dance and allowing us to meet the often shy but always engaging locals.

Australians know the Balinese are friendly and charming, but they aren’t unique in Indonesia. The ubiquitous friendliness is yet another reason to get out and explore one of the world’s great destinations, right on our doorstep, yet seemingly hidden from view.

The details

Cruise
Scenic has two different Indonesia itineraries this year. A 15-day “Discover Komodo & the Spice Islands” cruise from Denpasar in Bali to Darwin departs on July 6, 2025 and costs from $23,975 a person, while a 15-day “Secrets of Indonesia: Spice Islands & Raja Ampat” itinerary round-trip from Darwin departs on September 27, 2025 and costs from $21,245 a person.

Both differ in some destinations from the cruise described here. Prices include all dining, speciality restaurants, beverages, Wi-Fi, gratuities and shore excursions. See scenic.com.au

More
indonesia.travel

The writer was a guest of Scenic.