The incredible abandoned Greek island you’re not allowed to stay on

In the ruins of Delos, scores of cats roam freely. The tiny handful of people that live on the island don’t mind. Greek law doesn’t allow them to kill the snakes that also inhabit the island, but it says nothing about letting the cats do it.

Census stats say 14 people live on Delos, all working to preserve it, and there are no hotels to accommodate visitors. Yet for long stretches of history, this World Heritage site was one of the most important places in the Greek world. Pilgrims, traders and monument builders flocked to the island that has been regarded as the centre of the Cyclades group for centuries.

Delos went from being a cornerstone of the Mediterranean to essentially nothing.Credit: iStock

To my shame, I had never heard of Delos before browsing through the excursions list aboard the Majestic Princess. The ship was calling at Delos’ much better-known – and far more crowded – neighbour, Mykonos. A 40-minute side trip by ferry to the mythical birthplace of Apollo sounded intriguing.

In legend, the god of light, archery, music, healing and about a million other things is the extramarital offspring of Zeus – king of the gods – and the Titaness Leto. Zeus’ furiously jealous wife, Hera, forbade any lands from giving the pregnant Leto shelter, so she ended up on the supposedly floating island of Delos.

After Apollo’s birth, Delos was finally attached to the ocean floor with Zeus’ diamond chains, and it’s fair to say that Leto wouldn’t be the first visitor.

As it turns out, the story of humans on the island is far more fascinating than the one of the gods. It is most comprehensively told in the island’s museum, but more atmospherically understood by walking through the extensive ruins.

Delos is said to be the mythical birthplace of Apollo.Credit: iStock

The remains of a giant statue give an idea of what Delos once was. Only the hips, torso and base of Colossus of the Naxians are still present – although the left foot has been predictably snaffled by the British Museum.

In around 600 BC, however, it was a nine-metre-tall statue, with copper hair so that the sunlight would bounce off it and swathe its surrounds. It was built by the people of Naxos, ostensibly as a tribute to Apollo, but realistically to show off to the other Greek city states.

There was a lot of this going on. The competing city states built ever more lavish temples and statues on what had become a sacred island, while rich individuals erected marble statues of themselves.

For most of these preening acts of self-glorification thinly disguised as tributes, a succession of pedestal bases is all that is left.

The once-mighty Terrace of the Lions is a faithful replica.Credit: iStock

Delos was attracting hordes of pilgrims long before the cruise ship passengers arrived, and over the centuries, its character changed. A holy place became one of commerce – especially when the Romans turned it into a tax haven.

The square by the harbour shows the dark side of this – it became one of the biggest slave-trading stations in the Mediterranean.

But the zest for moneymaking in Delos is best seen in the part of the ruins where people lived. Because the homes were made from stone, many of the walls are still standing. In an ancient world where most buildings would have space around them, the houses of Delos are unusually closely packed, and the narrow lanes are claustrophobic.

Space, it seems, was at a premium, and ground floors were converted into shops. The layout feels more medieval than ancient.

Yet Delos went from being a cornerstone of the Mediterranean to essentially nothing. It was brutally sacked during the Mithridatic Wars of the first century BC, then never really recovered. By the eighth century AD, it was completely abandoned.

Columns, inscriptions, mosaics and temple facades survive.Credit: iStock

For modern visitors, there are mere traces of that former glory in the ruins. Columns, inscriptions, mosaics and temple facades survive, while the once-mighty Terrace of the Lions is a faithful replica. The original marble lion statues, built by the people of Naxos more than 2800 years ago, are now in the museum. These days, the cats that guard the island are a bit smaller.

THE DETAILS

VISIT
The 10-day Italy, Greece and Turkey cruise aboard the Majestic Princess starts from $3049 per person, with a half-day Delos excursion $150. See princess.com

If staying on Mykonos, Delos Tours runs guided tours including the boat transfer for 79 euros ($140). See delostours.gr

FLY
Qatar Airways offers one-stop flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Mykonos via Doha. See qatarairways.com

MORE
See visitgreece.gr

The writer travelled as a guest of Princess Cruises.