The improbable island that’s just a one-hour ride from LA

As we pass the Long Beach Light on its breakwater, we’re in the open Pacific Ocean – and I feel like dancing a nautical jib, splicing the mainbrace and ordering a tot of rum.

But maybe I’ll just stay in my window seat and enjoy the view. I am, after all, in the Commodore Lounge aboard the Catalina Express ferry, a cut above the hoi polloi on the lower decks. A Commodore Lounge ticket provides faster boarding and a better view from the upper deck. There’s also a complimentary snack-sized bag of cookies (this is America, after all), and a free drink – alcoholic if you prefer.

Avalon, on Santa Catalina Island, off the southern California coast.Credit: iStock

I’m sticking with coffee, as it’s still morning, but share the excited anticipation of my fellow ferry passengers on the voyage to Santa Catalina Island. Lying off Los Angeles, it’s a popular getaway, and on this sunny Saturday, the ship is booked out, its passengers in a cheerful holiday mood.

An hour later we land at Avalon, the pretty village that’s the hub of Catalina tourism. A distinctive landmark is the graceful circular casino – never used for gambling, but an entertainment venue erected in 1929 courtesy of the Wrigley family (of chewing gum fame).

On the walk to my hotel I pass a busy waterfront promenade lined with restaurants and bars, reinforcing my impression of Catalina as a souped-up version of Western Australia’s Rottnest Island. Like Rottnest, Catalina combines a compact tourist settlement with a nature reserve; though where Rotto is largely flat, Catalina is very hilly.

Bison roaming the island.Credit: Danny Lehman

I’ll be travelling up those hills shortly, aboard the Bison Expedition run by the Catalina Island Company. This nature-watching tour resembles an African safari, with 13 tour members in a converted Hummer vehicle that has ascending rows of seats. I’m riding shotgun next to driver Andy, a long-time Catalina resident who loves the island and thinks more people should visit.

“There are 20 million people over there,” he says, gesturing at the California mainland hidden by a misty blue haze. “And we only get a million visitors a year. Tell your friends!”

Andy is a font of information as we make our way up the slopes, describing local wildlife including indigenous dwarf foxes and introduced deer. The stars of the show are bison, descendants of creatures imported for The Vanishing American movie shoot a century ago. They’re not always easy to spot, however, so Andy leads us in practise cries of “Bison!”

Suddenly, we see some – way off in the distance, drinking at a lake between rolling dry hills. They’re furry blobs at this range, to be honest, but we feel pleased to be seeing bison at all.

Moving on, we pause at a lofty lookout to enjoy the view in blissful silence. That serenity is soon replaced by music, however, as a new phase of the tour begins. Having warned us to hang on, our driver puts the Hummer through its paces with a demonstration of rough-road driving to the background of heavy beats. I’m glad at this point that I’m not sitting up the back, though the sheer drop from my open-sided doorway sparks adrenaline enough.

After the thrill ride, we head up to the local airport where we take a break at the pretty Spanish-style terminal building, buying drinks and admiring the views. Then it’s back into the Hummer for the return ride to Avalon.

But wait! A passing guide in another vehicle tells Andy about a new bison sighting, and before long we’re parked near a cattle grid, admiring a huge creature who’s relaxing beneath the shade of roadside trees. No one thought these bison would last on Catalina, but here one is – a miracle on this improbable island, courtesy of Hollywood.

THE DETAILS

TOUR
Bison expedition from $US103.95 including fees, see visitcatalinaisland.com

STAY
Hotel Metropole on Santa Catalina offers comfortable accommodation in a central location near dining options. Rooms from $US211 a night, see hotel-metropole.com

FLY & SAIL
Fiji Airways flies to Los Angeles via Nadi, see fijiairways.com
Catalina Express sails regularly to Santa Catalina Island. Adult one-way fare including fees $US47, Commodore Lounge $US67. See catalinaexpress.com

MORE
lovecatalina.com

The writer travelled courtesy of LA Tourism, Love Catalina, Catalina Express and Fiji Airways.