The majestic Vinicunca in the Cusco region of Peru, also known as Rainbow Mountain.Credit: iStock
So epic is this land mass, even seasoned travellers will find fresh wonders to discover in the countries of South America.
The lowdown
South America gets in your blood. It sticks with you, it tugs at you, it calls you back for more.
This continent blends thrill and beauty, action and idyll. Nowhere will you find such a rich mix of character and culture writ large, in technicolour, at each turn.
South America is a market in La Paz, a heady offering of shaman trinkets and tourist tat, coca tea and hot empanadas, while all around is the majesty of snow-capped Andes. It’s the mighty rush of water over Iguazu Falls. It’s the first sight of Machu Picchu as the clouds magically part. It’s a horse ride over the Argentinian pampas; a sunset cocktail on the old city walls in Cartagena.
Culture writ large, in technicolour … vibrant colonial homes in Guatape, Colombia.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
There’s no other place like this, where full immersion is non-negotiable. It’s a continent that grabs your hand and drags you to the dancefloor and gives you the most memorable night of your life, a swirl of samba beats and sweat, of cachaca and pisco, and people who take such joy in simply being.
The food is incredible, unique – some of the best in the world. Landscapes soar from the sky-tickling Andes to the Caribbean coast, to the Earth’s coldest most starkly beautiful southern reaches. The energy is intangible yet wildly intoxicating.
You will always want to return to South America.
What’s hot
Countries like Chile are increasingly embracing an eco tourism focus … port city Valparaiso.Credit: iStock
South America hasn’t always been considered a foodie destination. But that has changed in the past decade, with Peruvian fine diners in particular dominating the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list, and the culinary scenes in countries such as Brazil, Argentina and Colombia gaining global attention.
You would travel to South America now just for the food, thanks to an attractive mix of locally influenced fine dining and affordable, accessible cuisine that makes the most of native ingredients and techniques.
There’s more, however, including a continent-wide push in South America towards more sustainable, thoughtful tourism. You can see this in the desire to steer tourists away from traditionally popular though fragile sites such as Machu Picchu and Iguazu Falls, to lesser-known alternatives, some of which are mentioned below. There’s also a proliferation of eco-resorts and sustainability-focused hotels, particularly in the likes of Ecuador, Brazil and Chile.
What’s not
A quick scan of the Australian government’s Smartraveller website will tell you much of what you need to know about dangers in South America: Venezuela is rated “do not travel”, and the Darien Gap connecting Colombia and Panama is the same – we would recommend avoiding both. There are also large swathes of orange – “reconsider your need to travel”– in Colombia.
Everywhere else, however, is good to go, though South America does have its security issues. Parts of cities such as Rio de Janeiro, Buenos Aires, Bogota and Lima are notorious for petty crime, and that reputation isn’t entirely unwarranted. You need to take precautions in much of the continent and be aware of your surroundings at all times.
The other annoyance of travel in Latin America is the cost and hassle of flying between countries. Flights depart at odd hours, they’re prone to delays and connections can take forever.
Five must–visit countries
Plaza de Armas of Arequipa and its beautiful gothic cathedral.Credit: Getty Images
Peru
Scan this list and you might notice a few big-name absentees, Argentina and Brazil, say. Our thinking, however, is that you know about them. How about countries travellers may be less familiar with? The first is Peru, globally renowned for Incan ruins such as Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, though a country that remains underrated for its food scene, its natural wonders and remnants of the Moche, Chimu, Nazca and Lambayeque civilisations. Visitors will also find three distinct landscapes and cultures in Peru: its flat, coastal region, its towering Andes, and the lush Amazon basin. Each area boasts a different cuisine, different traditions, different vistas, and vastly different tourism experiences. See peru.travel
Colombia
This vibrant, exciting country has mostly shed its shady reputation from the bad old days: cities such as Medellin, Cali, Cartagena and Bogota are on the mainstream-tourism radar now, and help to make Colombia a very attractive prospect.
There’s rich diversity here, from the soaring summits of the Andes, to the steamy Amazon, to the sultry Caribbean coastline. There’s ancient indigenous history, remnants of a Spanish colonial past, plus a modern culture rich in celebration of the country’s progress. Dance the night away in Cali; tap into the pirate history of Cartagena; feast on world-leading cuisine in Bogota; get a sense of history in small towns such as Barichara, Salento and Guatape. See colombia.travel
Bolivia
The world’s largest salt flat, Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia.Credit: Getty Images
La Paz is the sort of city that immediately displays its charms. You arrive by road or by air high on the altiplano and the city appears before you, spread out in a valley surrounded by snowy peaks. The cacophony, the character, the beauty all demand your attention. Bolivia is like that. This is one of South America’s poorer countries, but one rich in diversity and attractions. Lake Titicaca is here, the vast majesty of the Uyuni salt lake is here, there’s Amazon jungle, indigenous heritage, ancient traditions and modern progress. There’s action and adventure in Bolivia, or peace and quiet; its cities can seem chaotic but are, in fact, highly approachable with affordable hotels and sights. See smartraveller.gov.au
Chile
You probably know Chile, the toothpick-slender country in South America’s south-west, for Patagonia, but what do you know of this nation’s culture? What do you know of its history? What do you know of its natural diversity, its beauty? There is so much in Chile to explore, from the Atacama Desert in the north, to Patagonia in the south, with everything from Andean volcanoes to lush valleys in between. Chile is known for those Patagonian adventures, Torres del Paine and Tierra del Fuego, but people should be talking more about the wine regions, or the food, with a burgeoning scene in Santiago; or the colour and the joy of Valparaiso. And don’t forget Easter Island. See chile.travel
Uruguay
Uruguay has a quality you don’t often find in South America: a sense of being laid-back. This continent does excitement, it does edginess, but laid-back? Not always. That’s part of why Uruguay is such a pleasant surprise, a country small in geography and population, wedged between noisy neighbours Brazil and Argentina, where the streets are safe and the weather is warm, where gauchos roam the pampas and locals dance away during a two-month-long Carnival at the beginning of the year. Uruguay has wine country, a great restaurant and bar scene in Montevideo, party-lovers’ paradise in Punta del Este, historic charm in Colonia del Sacramento, and outdoor adventure everywhere you look. see uruguay.uy
Five must-see cities
The colourful Pelourinho historic centre in Salvador.Credit: Getty Images
Salvador, Brazil
If you were to take everything that’s great about South America – the rich mix of indigenous, African and European heritage, the beaches, the music, the food, the colour and joy – and place it all in one city, you would get Salvador. The capital of Brazil’s northern Bahia state is known for Carnival celebrations that rival those of Rio, though year-round this is a city that dances to its own beat. Salvador is a place to take things slow during the day, to sip beachside caipirinhas, try unique foods such as acaraje, and stroll historic Pelourinho; by night, get ready to dance. See visitbrasil.com
Valparaiso, Chile
Forget business-like Santiago; when you land in Chile, head to the coast. Valparaiso is a port town with UNESCO World Heritage listing, a colourful, tumbledown place that clings to a hillside, with winding streets lined with art galleries, restaurants and bars. There are a few high-quality museums here paying tribute to Valpo’s maritime history, you can visit the poet Pablo Neruda’s house, the Cardonal market is well worth a visit, and the historic restaurant J Cruz serves a mean portion of the town’s classic dish, chorrillana: a pile of French fries topped with chopped steak, onion and eggs. See chile.travel
Medellin, Colombia
The city that was once at the heart of Pablo Escobar’s narcotics empire is these days a diverse, artistic, thriving destination that captures much of what visitors love about modern-day Colombia. Medellin is the birthplace of artist Fernando Botero, and the Antioquia Museum hosts a large collection of Botero’s distinctively chunky sculptures, as well as his paintings and other significant artworks. Elsewhere, there are parks, botanic gardens, trendy neighbourhoods such as El Poblado and Laureles, and the famous Metrocables, two cable cars that help residents commute high above the city. See colombia.travel
Salta, Argentina
Salta’s mesmerising “Mountain of 14 Colours”.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Many visitors to Argentina will be familiar with Mendoza, the wine capital, but fewer know the charms of Salta, in the mountains of the north. Salta is known as “La Linda”, or “the pretty”, and a stroll around its historic neighbourhoods and mountain peaks will demonstrate why. There’s an interesting mix of cultures here, from Argentinian to those of the indigenous peoples of the Andes. Salta is known for its food – don’t miss the empanadas – and this is also a wine region, with tours available of local vineyards. It’s a jumping-off point for 4WD trips in the Valles Calchaquies, and rafting on the Rio Juramento. See argentina.travel
Arequipa, Peru
There are no Incan ruins in Arequipa, no Nazca lines. What there is, however, is the towering majesty of El Misti, a volcanic peak that looms above the city, not to mention UNESCO Heritage-Listed neighbourhoods, historic churches and other buildings around the Plaza de Armas, energetic markets, scenic bridges, and the chance to appreciate Peruvian life and culture outside heavily touristed Cusco and Lima. The food in Arequipa is also a highlight: the city’s cooks are enamoured with rocoto, an apple-shaped chilli pepper, which appears in everything from ceviche to stew. The local beer, Arequipena, is also excellent. See peru.travel
Five must-see sights
Bolivia’s mirror-like salt flats, or Salar de Uyuni, after rain.Credit: Getty Images
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
This is the world’s largest salt lake, more than 10,000 square kilometres in area – that’s more than twice the size of Kangaroo Island, and it’s just pure nothingness. The feeling of standing in this vast ocean of blinding white, of watching as the sun sets and the salt crystals glow pink and orange, is like nothing else on Earth. Visitors can spot flamingos on the lake’s outer rims, take photos that play with depth perception in a landscape with no markers, and from December to April, see incredible reflections in the thin sheet of water that covers the lake. See salardeuyuni.com
Choquequirao, Peru
Machu Picchu is one of the world’s best-known attractions, and it’s suffering beneath the weight of tourist numbers, so it’s worth looking for alternatives such as Choquequirao, an Incan ruin that has much of what makes Machu Picchu famous. Choquequirao is also close to Cusco, high in the Andes, and it’s accessible on foot, in this case via a strenuous two-day hike with far less traffic than the famous Inca Trail. This site, set in a spectacular location, is a sprawling ruin with temples, residences, plazas and rock art. See peru.travel
Perito Moreno, Argentina
Spectrums of blue at the Perito Moreno Glacier.Credit: iStock
Perito Moreno isn’t the world’s largest glacier, and it may not even be the most beautiful. It is, however, the most exhilarating. Nowhere else can you get this close to a calving glacier (without going on an expensive seaborne expedition); nowhere else will you stand on a boardwalk and watch as not so far away, huge chunks of baby-blue ice are torn away from the jagged glacier wall and crash into the lake below. An incredibly accessible version of one of the world’s wildest phenomena. See argentina.travel
Banos de Agua Santa, Ecuador
Few places in the world are as scenically spectacular as Banos de Agua Santa in central Ecuador. This town nestles in a steep valley surrounded on all sides by rivers, waterfalls, hot springs, towering cliffs and lush foothills. Banos is also at the foot of the Tungurahua volcano and is a hotspot for adventure sports, from mountain-biking to rafting to canyoning to hiking. Or, just relax in the hot springs. Your call. See ecuador.travel
Serra dos Orgaos, Brazil
Chile’s Torres del Paine National Park is famous for its soaring, jagged peaks. What’s perhaps not as widely appreciated, meanwhile, is that Brazil’s Serra dos Orgaos National Park has similar, though not quite as chilly, attractions. This mountain range, just north of Rio de Janeiro, is marked by its spectacular granite peaks, which rise fortress-like from deep jungle. There’s an extensive trail system here for hiking of all distances and difficulties, including a three-day journey through the area’s best scenery. See visitbrasil.com
Five must-do experiences
An underwater crater at Pinnacle Rock in the Galapagos Islands.Credit: iStock
Cruise the Galapagos, Ecuador
There is nowhere else on Earth like the Galapagos Islands, a unique and undisturbed ecosystem where penguins and seals swim with hammerhead sharks, where ancient tortoises lumber across island plains, where carpets of marine iguanas laze in the sun and birds of prey perch nearby, unafraid. The best way to see these wonders is on a Galapagos live-aboad cruise that can take you to many of its islands, as well as exploring the undersea world. See ecuador.travel
Stay at Tambopata Research Center, Peru
Deep in the Peruvian Amazon, a day-long boat ride from civilisation, sits the Tambopata Research Centre, a scientific base and tourist lodge. Experience biodiversity during a no-frills stay in a remote 28-room lodge that’s inaccessible by road or air; a place to view scarlet macaws in their natural habitat, to walk the jungle in the hope of spotting jaguars, red howler monkeys, peccaries, spider monkeys, capybaras and more. At night, you lay in bed with just a mosquito screen between you and the jungle… incredible. See rainforestexpeditions.com
Climb Villarrica, Chile
Tourists hike up Villarrica, one of Chile’s most active volcanos.Credit: Getty Images
You have to rise early to climb Villarrica, a 2800-metre volcano in Chile’s beautiful Lake District, south of Santiago. Hikes begin in the dark and as you climb the snowy slopes you will see the sun split the horizon and the majesty of this part of the world revealed. This is a beautiful climb but one with an element of danger given Villarrica is an active volcano. But the views, and the feeling of achievement, are unforgettable. See chile.travel
Stay in an estancia, Argentina
You haven’t experienced the essence of Argentina until you’ve stayed on an estancia. These traditional ranches offer lodging for tourists who are welcomed into the world of the gauchos, the Argentinian horsemen famous for their jaunty berets and love of a good steak. Ride horses over the pampas, read books by the fire, sleep in classic old farmhouses and join in on an asado, the Argentinian barbecue that can go for hours. See argentina.travel
Go to the football, Brazil or Argentina
The passion of South American football fans is difficult to overstate. There’s almost a madness here, a fervour that sometimes boils over into violence, though for the most part is expressed through banners and flags, through singing and cheering and sometimes fireworks as the local team takes to the pitch. A trip to iconic stadia such as La Bombonera in Buenos Aires, home to Boca Juniors, should be on the must-do list for anyone hoping to tap into the ultimate South American obsession.
Five must-do journeys
Diverse colours and textures of the Atacama Desert.Credit: Getty Images
San Pedro de Atacama, Chile to Uyuni, Bolivia
It takes three days, usually, to travel overland from San Pedro in Chile’s Atacama Desert, to Salar de Uyuni, the massive salt lake in Bolivia. Along rough tracks only suitable for 4WDs, you’ll ascend to almost 4500 metres, a dizzying height, taking in hot springs, altiplano lagoons and the aptly named (and surreal) Salvador Dali Desert. This journey also includes one of the most remote and desolate border crossings you will come across, and accommodation in modest guesthouses in the middle of nowhere. See chile.travel
Carreterra Austral, Chile
Hire a car in Chile (or grab a bike for the hardy) and tackle one of the world’s most spectacular and yet underrated drives: Chile’s Route 7, otherwise known as the Carretera Austral. This is a 1240-kilometre highway from Puerto Montt, at the southern end of Chile’s Lake District, to Villa O’Higgins, well into Patagonia. Along the way you will see fjords, glaciers, steep mountains, thick forests, rushing rivers, placid lakes, multiple national parks and small, sleepy towns. The journey includes three ferry crossings of rivers and fjords, and in autumn in particular the scenery is stunningly beautiful. See chile.travel
Salkantay Trail, Peru
Plenty of South America’s best journeys are done on foot. And plenty, too, are done in Peru. The Salkantay Trail ticks all the boxes, a five-day hike from Mollepata near Cusco, across the towering Salkantay Pass to Aobamba. If those names mean little to you, know this: from the end of the trail in Aobamba, it’s just a three-hour train ride to Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu, so not only do you get to experience some of the Andes’ most spectacular scenery without the crowds of the Inca Trail, you still get to see Peru’s No. 1 one attraction at the end. See peru.travel
Pucon, Chile to Bariloche, Argentina
Lakeside at idyllic Pucon.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Could a humble bus trip be one of South America’s greatest journeys? Absolutely, particularly when it departs from Pucon, in the heart of Chile’s gorgeous Lake District, and then winds its way up into the Andes for an alpine border crossing into Argentina. The road then eases through high-country scenery to San Martin de los Andes, and then on via river crossings and lakeside hugging to the adventure capital of Bariloche. This is a full-day trip, and an eminently memorable one. See chile.travel
Buenos Aires, Argentina to Caracas, Venezuela
This is for the truly adventurous only, who can hire, buy or even attempt to import a motorbike and make their way along the route taken by Ernesto “Che” Guevara, the journey that became his famous book The Motorcycle Diaries. Che and Alberto Granado set off on a Norton 500cc from their home in Buenos Aires and visited southern Argentina, Chile, Peru, Colombia and Venezuela. Perhaps you could choose to just do a small part of it.
Did you know?
South America has the world’s largest tropical wetland, The Pantanal, an area larger than England, and mostly in Brazil, with parts in Bolivia and Paraguay, where 80 per cent of the land floods during the rainy season, leaving fish swimming through treetops.
South America’s Colombia has a river, Cano Cristales, that flows in five colours – red, blue, yellow, green, and black – because of aquatic plants that bloom at different times of year and is known as the “liquid rainbow”.
South America has one capital city, Quito in Ecuador, that experiences rapid weather changes, or four seasons in one day, on account of its location at high altitude on the equator. Locals say spring comes in the morning, summer in the afternoon, autumn in the evening and winter at night.
South America has the driest desert on earth in the Atacama, where rain has never fallen on some sections and where the soil is so desiccated, it’s used to test remote-controlled vehicles designed to be used on Mars.
South America is believed to be where marsupials originated, and migrated across Gondwana when the continents were still connected.