Stunning waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes National Park, Croatia.Credit: Getty Images
When the Dead Kennedys sang about a “holiday in Cambodia” back in 1980, they were being ironic. You think things are bad here in the US, the band was saying. Try taking a holiday in Cambodia.
Now, however, you would. You should. The South-East Asian country once known for the horrors of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge has enjoyed a steady recovery since, and part of its economic success has been via tourism: world-class attractions such as the temples of Angkor have brought in visitors from around the world.
The country is also a firm favourite among the budget-conscious. Cambodia, clearly, is open for business. And it’s not the only country that was once off-limits to tourists, but which now welcomes visitors in droves.
We’re talking about the likes of Colombia, Sri Lanka, South Africa, Croatia and more. The former no-go zones that have been transformed over years and decades into some of the world’s most popular destinations.
Here, we celebrate those countries that have pulled themselves back from the brink. We take a look at their modern attractions, but also the star qualities that these destinations have always possessed, even in their darkest hours.
So take a holiday in Cambodia, or Peru, or Cuba or Croatia. A world with these countries as mainstream tourism destinations is most certainly a better place.
Sri Lanka
Sampunaatheecharam Shiva Temple is a hindu temple near Jaffna, Sri Lanka.Credit: Getty Images
Bad times Sri Lanka has had its issues: the civil war of the 1980s marked the country as a no-go zone, and while it had a strong recovery afterwards, terrorist attacks in 2019, subsequent economic collapse and widespread unrest for some time afterwards put this country on the back foot.
Good times Now Sri Lanka has achieved a sense of calm, and the country is ranked orange, “exercise a high degree of caution”, by Smartraveller (smartraveller.gov.au), the travel advisory site of Australia’s DFAT (Department of Foreign Affairs and Trade). It has the same warning level as, for example, France.
Travellers are once again flocking to this island nation for its charming coastal towns, its rich history, its highland splendour, and its amazing food scene.
Don’t miss On the coast, Galle is a must-visit, a port city with Portuguese, Dutch and British history. In the island’s centre, Kandy is cool and relaxed, while the ancient fortress of Sigiriya is spectacular. In the north, Jaffna is truly reborn. Once war-torn, it’s now an exciting and relatively untouched destination. And wherever you go, try famed Sri Lankan dishes such as kottu roti (stir-fried roti with meat and egg), and “short eats” (fried, heavily spiced snacks).
Good to go SriLankan Airlines has direct flights from Melbourne and Sydney to Colombo (srilankan.com). The country has two wet seasons – it’s best to visit the south and west from December to April, and visit the east and north from May to September. See srilanka.travel
Colombia
Bad times Many a country’s troubled history can be summed up with a single name – for Colombia it’s Pablo Escobar. The drug kingpin ruled the city of Medellin and played a large part in Colombia’s descent into guerilla warfare in the 1980s and 90s.
Good times Since Escobar’s downfall, Colombia has been on the road to recovery, and is now attracting tourists from around the world keen to enjoy its Caribbean coastline, its Amazon forests, its coffee-growing highlands, and lively cities such as Cartagena, Cali, Bogota and Medellin.
The colourful buildings of Cartagena, Colombia.Credit: iStock
Don’t miss Cartagena is something of the jewel in Colombia’s tourism crown, a historic port town that has seen its share of marauders and invaders, from Spanish conquistadores to pirates to the British navy. Medellin is the former home of artist Fernando Botero, and hosts many of his works. Cali, meanwhile, is known as Colombia’s salsa capital. And the food scene in Bogota is thriving.
Good to go From the east coast of Australia, LATAM flies to Bogota via Santiago (latamairlines.com), while American Airlines (aa.com) and Air Canada (aircanada.com) both fly via their respective hubs. June to September in Colombia is dry and warm, though December to March is also good. See colombia.travel
Peru
Aerial view of Palpa Geoglyphs, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Peru.Credit: Adobe
Bad times Peru has had its share of troubles: in the 1980s and 90s there was significant political unrest, with widespread violence between government forces and the Shining Path rebel group. Things stabilised significantly in the 2000s, until further violence in 2022 caused another setback.
Good times Peru is now rated orange by DFAT, “exercise a high degree of caution”, and is once again open to mass tourism. The country has struggled to bounce back to pre-pandemic visitor levels, though over time those tourists are sure to return to experience the country’s significant drawcards.
Royal Tombs of Sipan Museum, Peru.Credit: Getty Images
Don’t miss Machu Picchu is one of the best-known historic sites in the world; however, Peru is filled with cultural relics from the Incas, the Nazca, the Moche, the Chimu and more. This country also boasts one of the world’s great food scenes, with everything from lauded fine diners to cheap, though high-quality eateries known as “huariques”.
Good to go LATAM has flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Lima, via Santiago (latamairlines.com). The dry season, May to October, is best for Peru, particularly if you want to visit Machu Picchu. See peru.travel
Northern Ireland
Titanic sculpture in Belfast, Northern Ireland.
Bad times The Troubles in Northern Ireland are well documented – from the 1960s until 1998, frequent clashes between unionists and Irish nationalists, Protestants and Catholics, put many potential tourists off a visit.
Good times Since the signing of the Good Friday Agreement in 1998, Northern Ireland has largely been at peace, and tourism has resumed. Belfast and Derry are popular bases for visitors, and the Giant’s Causeway is also a major drawcard.
Traces of The Troubles… Northern Ireland.
Don’t miss Belfast is a lively, creative, enjoyable city, one with an excellent dining and nightlife scene, not to mention famous murals that trace Belfast’s recent history. And of course, don’t miss the Titanic Experience. Derry, meanwhile, has historic city walls, murals, and the spectacular Guildhall building. And the Giant’s Causeway is a natural phenomenon.
Good to go British Airways has flights from Australian ports to Belfast, via Singapore and London Heathrow (britishairways.com). The best time to visit Northern Ireland is summer, though the shoulder seasons are also enjoyable. See discovernorthernireland.com
Cuba
A vintage car in Camaguey, Cuba.Credit: Getty Images
Bad times You know the whole thing with Cuba: the 1959 revolution, Fidel Castro, Che Guevara, the Bay of Pigs, the Missile Crisis, the embargo with the US and the island nation’s isolation from the rest of the world.
Good times Okay. “Good times” is probably putting things a little strongly. Relations with the US are not at their highest point, and Americans still have difficulty visiting Cuba. Australians, however, are free to do so, and have been visiting in increasing numbers.
Viñales Valley at sunset in Cuba.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Don’t miss Cuba is famous as a time warp, with its vintage American cars and its crumbling Spanish-era facades. There’s more to the island than that, however: music is a huge part of Cuban life, and the live scene here is heady and inspiring; there’s natural beauty, from mountains to the Caribbean coastline; and the country’s network of “casas particulares”, or bed and breakfast accommodation, allows visitors a natural entry into typical Cuban life that’s far more attractive than its government-run hotel network.
Good to go Cuba is tricky to get to from Australia right now. On January 12, 2021, Cuba was designated a “State Sponsor of Terrorism” by the US State Department, meaning the US will need to be avoided on your journey, and after entering Cuba you will no longer be eligible for the US’s visa-waiver program. That will mean either flying with LATAM via South America (latamairlines.com), or Air Canada (aircanada.com) with the best time to visit Cuba is its dry season from November to April. See cubatravel.cu and smartraveller.gov.au
Croatia
Serene walking trails through Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia.Credit: Getty Images/iStockphoto
Bad times It seems difficult to believe that not so long ago, Croatia was a warzone. After the break-up of Yugoslavia in the early 1990s, Croatia went through a war of independence and wasn’t at peace until 1995.
Good times This country is now a firm favourite among travellers, rated green by DFAT, a peaceful nation that boasts some incredibly beautiful scenery, not to mention historic sites and more Game of Thrones filming locations that you can poke some Valyrian steel at.
A cathedral in Croatia’s capital Zagreb.Credit: Getty Images
Don’t miss Dubrovnik is the place everyone wants to go – to the point where the city is now suffering a little from over-tourism. So why not spread your wings and check out similarly beautiful coastal cities such as Zadar and Split, or go island hopping in the Adriatic, or check out gorgeous Plitvice Lakes, or spend time in Croatia’s underrated capital, Zagreb? Find Roman ruins, too, in Split, Salona, Pula and Burnum.
Good to go Turkish Airlines has flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Dubrovnik, via Kuala Lumpur and Istanbul (turkishairlines.com). Summer is high season in Croatia, though spring and autumn, and even winter, are pleasant and will help you beat the bulk of the crowds. See croatia.hr
South Africa
African lynx in South Africa’s Madikwe Game Reserve. Credit: Adobe
Bad times This country wasn’t just a figurative no-go zone – for the best part of four decades, from the 1960s until its first post-apartheid elections in 1994, there was a worldwide boycott of South Africa taking in sport, academia, trade and tourism.
Good times Post-1994 the country has opened to mass tourism and has proved extremely popular, despite lingering security concerns. The Cape region in particular has been a big drawcard, as well as the well-known likes of Kruger National Park.
Camps Bay near Cape Town. For most Australians, South Africa serves as an entree to the continent.Credit: iStock
Don’t miss Of course those game parks are a huge draw, and deservedly so: Kruger is amazing, though also very busy; Sabi Sabi, Madikwe, Pilanesberg, Shamwari and Phinda also deliver incredible wildlife experiences. Elsewhere, the wine-producing regions of Stellenbosch and Franschhoek are very much worth a visit, Cape Town speaks for itself as an attraction, and the Drakensberg provides some truly stunning highland scenery.
Good to go Qantas flies direct from Sydney to Johannesburg, and offers connecting flights from Melbourne (qantas.com). The ideal time to visit is May to September, when game viewing is at its best and the days are clearest. See southafrica.net
Cambodia
Bayon temple in Angkor, Cambodia.Credit: Adobe Stock
Bad times It almost seemed impossible, in the latter half of the 20th century, to consider Cambodia as a future tourist destination. The country was ruled by Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, who inflicted incredible harm on the nation and its people.
Good times After the collapse of the Khmer Rouge in the 1990s, the country stabilised and tourists returned to Cambodia, a trickle that soon became a flood: in 1994 just 176,000 foreign visitors arrived; last year that number was 6.7 million.
Don’t miss The temples of Angkor are justifiably one of the most famous historical landmarks on Earth, a series of ruins dating back a thousand years to the height of the Khmer Empire. There are several more heritage-listed sites in Cambodia, as well as spectacular national parks, and modern culture in the likes of Phnom Penh, Siem Reap, Battambang and Kampot. River cruising, too, is becoming increasingly popular, with many vessels travelling the Mekong from Siem Reap into Vietnam.
Good to go Singapore Airlines has connecting flights from major Australian ports to Phnom Penh (singaporeair.com). Dry season in Cambodia is November to April, when the heat is also at bay. See tourismcambodia.com
Germany
Mural in the former East Germany which hosts some of the country’s most underrated tourist attractions
Bad times You remember the Cold War, right? Until the fall of the Berlin Wall, Germany was split into east and west, with the German Democratic Republic – the eastern side – essentially off limits to all but the hardiest tourists from the Western world.
Good times Germany reunified in 1990, and has since become one of the most visited countries on the planet, the world’s eighth most popular destination in 2023. The unified country is now listed as orange by DFAT due to several isolated acts of terrorism, though it remains a favourite destination.
Don’t miss The former east hosts some of modern-day Germany’s most underrated tourist attractions. East Berlin – the likes of Mitte, Prenzlauer Berg, and Friedrichshain – is a hub of counter-culture; Leipzig is filled with art galleries and high-quality restaurants; Dresden is historic and fascinating, as is Weimar; and the Harz Mountains provide natural beauty.
Good to go Qatar Airways flies from major Australian ports to Berlin, via Doha (qatarairways.com). High season in Germany is summer – June to August – though spring and autumn are also very pleasant. See germany.travel
Saudi Arabia
Entrance to the ancient Nabataean Tomb of Lihyan, carved in rock in the desert, Mada’in Salih, Saudi Arabia.Credit: Getty Images
Bad times The problem in Saudi Arabia wasn’t so much that no one wanted to come (though the country’s poor human rights record and extensive restrictions on women’s freedoms didn’t help) – it was that no one was allowed in. Until 2019, Saudi authorities only rarely issued tourist visas to visitors travelling for reasons other than religious pilgrimages.
Good times Though the above mentioned issues remain for Saudi Arabia, tourism is being touted as an important source of future income for the country, which is part of why it has now thrown its doors open to the outside world, issuing tourist visas to citizens of 49 countries since 2019.
Don’t miss Saudi Arabia is littered with incredible historic sites: the Nabatean ruins of Mada’in Salih rival those of nearby Petra in Jordan; At-Turaif, on the outskirts of Riyadh, was the original home of the Saudi royal family; Jeddah is an ancient port town; and Al-Ahsa Oasis is filled with archaeological sites. Saudi Arabia also has Red Sea coast, desert wadis, and hyper-modern structures such as the mirror-clad Maraya Concert Hall in Al-Ula.
Good to go Etihad flies from Australian ports to Riyadh via Abu Dhabi (etihad.com). The best time to visit Saudi Arabia is in winter, from December to March with smartraveller.gov.au providing advice on visas. See visitsaudi.com
Countries we would love to see bounce back
Syria This could be a crucial period in Syria’s strife-torn history, as a new regime seeks to establish itself after 24 years under Bashar al-Assad. How that plays out is still undecided, though we would love to see Syria restored to peace and prosperity, and reopen to the world as the remarkable tourist destination that it once was, and could be again.
Myanmar For a while there, Myanmar was back. After a decades-long tourism boycott encouraged by Aung San Suu Kyi, in 2012 the country began reopening to the world, with fair elections, and tourism to the likes of Bagan and Yangon blooming. Since a military coup in 2021, however, Myanmar has been back off limits, and is now rated “do not travel” by DFAT.
Ukraine The issues in Ukraine are well publicised – the country was invaded by Russia in early 2022, and has since been locked in a drawn-out war. This was once a great tourism destination, with visitors flocking to the capital, Kyiv, to the Black Sea coast at Odessa, and the Carpathian Mountains. We hope for better days when those visits are possible again.
Venezuela Pop quiz: where is the world’s highest waterfall? It’s in Venezuela, and it’s called Angel Falls, where water plunges an incredible 979 metres. Only, you would have to be a pretty hardy traveller to see it right now, as Venezuela is rated “do not travel” by DFAT, due to political instability, food and water shortages and high crime rates.
Ethiopia This is a very unfortunate case because Ethiopia almost made our main list here – only, DFAT recently upgraded its travel advice to “reconsider your need to travel” to Ethiopia, with many regions, including those home to major tourist attractions, rated “do not travel”. This is due to the threat of terrorist attacks and kidnapping, a sad situation for a truly amazing country.