Review: ​Banubanu Beach Retreat, Bremer Island, Northern Territory - The perfect place to chill before a Top End adventure

Banubanu Beach Retreat sits on a crescent-shaped white sand beach, lined with safari tents.

THE PLACE

Stepping off the boat onto the shore at Bremer Island, we meander up a sandy path bordered by seashells, driftwood and fishing nets to Seabreeze Restaurant – the hub of Banubanu Beach Retreat. Perched atop a hill, the restaurant has a deck with a plunge pool at one end and overlooks a crescent-shaped white sand beach, lined with safari tents. It's hard to believe this resort began its life as a fishing shack 16 years ago when Helen Martin and Trevor Hosie began taking visitors there. Guests slept in cabins before three eco-tents were built on the beachfront in 2017. Three more tents, the restaurant and pool were added in 2019. The retreat is on the northern tip of Bremer Island, a 40-minute boat ride from the mainland. It's named after the rocky outcrops at the eastern end of the beach, coined by Maccassan traders before European arrival. Banu is a Persian name for "girl", which the large boulders represented. Martin and Hosie sought permission from the traditional owners, the local Yolgnu people, to lease the land where the resort was built. Boats depart beside Gove Boat Club in Inverell Bay, about 10 minutes' drive from the mining town of Nhulunbuy. Guests can fly from Cairns or Darwin to nearby Gove Airport with Airnorth.

THE LOOK

With names like Sea Clusion, Sea La Vie and Sea Renity, it's easy to slip into the relaxed island vibe in one of the six safari tents.

Housed in a large eco-tent with glass doors to maximise the view during the wet season, the restaurant area also encompasses a lounge and a bar. It is decorated with wicker furniture and maps of the region and Indigenous artwork on the wall. A short walk away, the old shack is now also a bar decorated with an eclectic mix of driftwood, life rings, buoys and hats that have washed up from Indonesia, and other nautical paraphernalia. The resort is 100 per cent solar powered, and the main water supply is bore water.

THE ROOM

With names like Sea Clusion, Sea La Vie and Sea Renity, it's easy to slip into the relaxed island vibe in one of the six safari tents. There are five "beachfront bungalows", while the "penthouse bungalow" sits in prime position on the hill. All tents have twin beds which can be combined to make a king, ensuite bathrooms, deck, ceiling fans, bar fridges, and that all important outdoor shower.

FOOD & WINE

As you would expect, there is a strong focus on seafood. Think wild caught barramundi served with tamarind dressing, or freshly caught crab, peppered with herbs grown at the resort. Other menu items include crispy skin duck served with sesame Asian greens, orange and sweet chilli glaze; and white chocolate and macadamia parfait served with poached berries for dessert.

OUT & ABOUT

The island is the same size as Lord Howe Island, but visitors can only explore a small section which is leased by the resort. There are four marked walking trails, up to five kilometres long, taking you over sand dunes, past wildflowers and along deserted beaches. If you're lucky you may spot sea turtles nesting. Other activities include swimming, kayaking or snorkelling, with the advice seeming to be to "watch for crocs". "They pass by a couple of times a decade, but don't seem to stick around," one staffer says. NT Tourism says to only swim in locations that are clearly marked safe to do so and defer to the expertise of locals. (See becrocwise.nt.gov.au) You can also book charter fishing trips, and it's a twitcher's paradise, with 65 bird species calling the island home. Or just borrow a book from the library and while away the day reading in the hammock.

THE VERDICT

Offering barefoot luxury in a remote location, this resort is a great place to chill before or after a Top End adventure.

OUR RATING

★★★★

ESSENTIALS

Beachfront Bungalows start at $872 a person a night, including all meals, airport pick up, transfers and permit fees. A minimum two-night stay is required. Bremer Island, East Arnhem Land, Northern Territory. Ph 0427 272 772. See banubanu.com

HIGHLIGHT

Sitting on the deck eating a calamari salad and sipping wine while watching other guests kayaking and snorkelling in the turquoise cove below.

LOWLIGHT

Day trippers and locals can visit on tours or in their own boats on weekends, so book a mid-week stay if you want exclusivity.

Angela Saurine was a guest of Banubanu Beach Retreat and Tourism NT. See northernterritory.com