Portugal’s second-largest city is packed with highlights

The guide: Porto, Portugal

There’s more to discover in Portugal’s second-largest city than its famous fortified wine.

The district

The colours of Porto in the traditional houses of the Ribeira.Credit: Adobe

Sure, it’s the city’s most touristed neighbourhood – a medieval tangle of cobblestoned streets that spills out onto a riverside quay lined with photogenic pastel-coloured townhouses – but the Ribeira is hard to resist. While there are sights to tick off, such as the moving Alminhas da Ponte bronze shrine to those who died in 1809 trying to escape the invading French army, it’s more about savouring the atmosphere. Browse the markets, listen to the street musicians, then find a quayside cafe to watch the sunset with the city’s favourite aperitif: a white port and tonic.

The view

Worth the climb – Clerigos Tower.Credit: iStock

It’s a breath-robbing climb up a claustrophobic, 240-step, circular staircase to the top of Clerigos Tower, but the prize is a soul-stirring, 360-degree panorama over the city as it tumbles down towards the Douro River. Part of an impressive 18th-century baroque church designed by Italian architect Nicolau Nasoni for the Brotherhood of the Clerics, the 75-metre-high granite tower is the perfect place to get your bearings and is especially scenic at sunset. The €10 ($18) admission also includes entrance to the church and a small museum. See torredosclerigos.pt

The dish

Portugal’s most decadent sandwich ... Francesinha, meaning “little French woman”.Credit: Adobe

Porto’s answer to the croque monsieur is the francesinha (“little French woman”), which despite its name is neither little nor French. A hulking great shed of a sandwich, it’s a cheese-covered doorstop of pork, sausage, steak and bacon that’s doused in a moat of spicy tomato sauce. Often served on a bed of chips and crowned with a fried egg, it’s something best shared with a friend or, ideally, five. You’ll find them all over the city but Cafe Santiago is a perennial favourite. See cafesantiago.pt

The church

The 1383 Gothic Church of St Francis in the historic centre of Porto.Credit: Adobe

Don’t be put off by its dowdy Gothic exterior, venture inside the Monument Church of St Francis and you’ll discover some of the country’s finest baroque altarpieces – extraordinarily ornate gold-smothered creations bursting with cherubs, angels and saints. Equally arresting is the Tree of Jesse, an intricate wooden carving of Jesus’ family tree by Filipe da Silva and Antonio Gomes. Don’t leave without visiting the church’s eerie catacombs, a hushed subterranean space where Franciscan monks and Porto’s noble families were once buried.

The bridge

The spectacular Dom Luis I Bridge.Credit: iStock

Designed by Teofilo Seyrig, a disciple of Gustave Eiffel, the spectacular Dom Luis I Bridge connects Porto with Vila Nova de Gaia on the opposing bank of the Douro River. The 172-metre-span double-decker structure is a symphony in steel, arching gracefully between the two cities to provide a convenient crossing point for vehicles, pedestrians and the metro. The views from the top deck are sensational (although height phobics may struggle with the 45-metre drop) and from the lower span you’ll often see daring youngsters jumping into the river below.

The cruise

If you weren’t lucky enough to sail into Porto, you can still get a taste of life on the Douro with a Six Bridges cruise. This popular excursion is offered by several companies on both sides of the river, using vessels inspired by the traditional wooden rabelo boats once used to transport port wine. During the narrated 50-minute trip you’ll see Porto’s six famous spans, from Gustave Eiffel’s elegant 1877 Maria Pia Bridge to the sleek, concrete Infante Dom Henrique Bridge, named after Portuguese explorer Prince Henry the Navigator. Expect to pay about €18 ($32).

The decoration

The Carmo Church in Porto, decorated with hand-painted tiles.Credit: Getty Images

It’s hard to miss Porto’s defining decorative flourish – the blue and white glazed ceramic tiles known as azulejos that adorn everything from stations and churches to benches and homes. Made fashionable in the 16th century by Portugal’s King Manuel I, the tiles are both practical (they help to keep buildings cool) and artistic, often depicting important historic events and traditions. Standout examples include the Gothic cloisters in Porto Cathedral, the ravishing, 20,000-tile interior of Sao Bento railway station and the conversation-stopping facade of the Chapel of Souls.

The excursion

Some serenity in Foz.Credit: Adobe

For some head-clearing respite from Porto’s tourist-clogged old town, head to Foz, a breezy seaside resort located at the mouth of the Douro where it meets the Atlantic. There you’ll find sandy beaches, oceanfront restaurants and attractive, palm-flanked avenues perfect for gelato-fuelled promenades. While there are notable attractions, including the imposing 16th-century Sao Joao Baptista da Foz fort and the 17-metre-high Felgueiras lighthouse, perhaps the most memorable aspect is the bone-jangling 20-minute journey there on the vintage No.1 tram.

The port lodge

It’s basically illegal to visit Porto and not taste its most famous export, the fortified wine that put the city on the map. All the port lodges are located in Vila Nova de Gaia and most offer a similar tour and tasting package. If you only have time for one, make it Cockburns; it not only has the largest cellar, a vast, barrel-filled warehouse containing 9 million litres of port, it’s also the only lodge where you can still see coopers at work. A 90-minute tour and tasting costs €26 ($46). See cockburns.com

One more thing

The wallet-friendly Porto Card provides discounted access to many of the city’s top attractions, unlimited use of public transport and deals at local restaurants. From €13 ($23). See porto.travel/porto-card

The writer was a guest of Intrepid Travel’s 10-day Portuguese Camino hiking trip from Porto to Santiago de Compostela. See intrepidtravel.com