No Lycra required: New NZ route is perfect for the unserious cyclist

Bike riders fall into two tribes: roadies, sporting Lycra shorts and carbon racing machines, usually seen holding up traffic on Saturday mornings; and mountain bikers, with their baggy shorts, knee pads and mud-splattered faces.

Picture perfect … Cycling past colourful boat sheds.Credit:

I see them hunched over their handlebars; all wearing grimaces, all with killer scowls. And when they’re not riding, they’re talking about it; about pedals and cleats and gear ratios, and a hundred other ways to puncture the fun out of it.

The 610-metre raised boardwalk across Blanket Bay.Credit:

But there’s a third category – the unserious cyclist club – of which I’m a card-waving member. Easily recognised by the smiles on their faces, this elite group enjoys multiple pit stops – for pastries, bookstore cats, vintage treasure or scenic detours. There’s only one rule, and that’s that the path must be flat and dedicated to cyclists or walkers (cars, be gone).

Fuelling up at Otago Farmers Market.Credit:

My search for the perfect path has brought me to Dunedin, a UNESCO Creative City freewheeling at the fringe of New Zealand’s South Island. It’s not only creative but seriously cool, with the smarts of a university town (University of Otago), the vibe of a surf village (with legendary point breaks to prove it) and an alternative music culture that gave rise to the distinctive “Dunedin Sound”.

Dunedin Railway Station has been a city icon since 1906.Credit:

When these clever cogs got together, they came up with the idea for Te Aka Otakou, the Otago Vine, a purpose-built pathway that follows the picturesque Otago Harbour.

Completed in late 2023, the shared pathway links heritage pubs with harbour beaches, craft breweries with sculpture gardens and museums. When I hear the trail includes a bike ferry crossing, my only question is: where’s the starting line?

The genius of Te Aka Otakou is that walkers or bikers can start or finish where they like. The full loop comprises two sections: the 9.7-kilometre Te Ara Moana, Ocean Path, which follows the western edge of the harbour, and the 16.2-kilometre Te Awa Otakou, Ocean River, which traces the eastern edge. A three-kilometre urban path connects the two halves.

Blue steel … On the road.Credit:

I want it all, so with an e-bike and a handy turbo button at my fingertips I’m tackling the complete 32-kilometre loop in one day.

I start at the revitalised neighbourhood hub of Steamer Basin near the historic wharves, pedalling alongside ocean-themed street art in a city with more than 50 murals, OCHO chocolate factory and Dunedin Craft Distillers, where bakery waste is crafted into spirits.

Leaving the industrial neighbourhood, I follow the train tracks to the stunning Dunedin Railway Station, where the Otago Farmers Market is in full bloom (Saturdays 8am-12.30pm, northern car park). It’s apricot season, so I grab a bagful and continue on my way past Emerson’s Brewery, making a mental note to come back for their Sunday music session.

Soon the city is behind me with the harbour stretching ahead, its distant edges trimmed with rolling green hills. As my pace picks up I glide across the 610-metre boardwalk that spans Blanket Bay, rolling into the quaint village of Port Chalmers. There’s ample time for a coffee and a peek inside the Flying Whale gallery before boarding the ferry to Portobello.

Lunch is a platter of marinated vegetables, olives, cheese and chutney from Augustines of Portobello, a newly opened farm store and kitchen featuring seasonal, farm-to-table food. A wedge of blueberry lamington and I’m back on the trail, heading clockwise along the peninsula towards the city.

One of New Zealand’s most scenic cycleways.Credit:

It’s a gorgeous day, the sun beaming over the harbour as I ride past colourful boat sheds, the path so close to the water I can see my own reflection. After a quick splash at Broad Bay Beach, I shift into high gear for the final stretch.

As the sun dips, so does my energy – it’s been a huge ride for this non-serious rider, even with a turbo burst – yet I can’t keep the smile off my face.

THE DETAILS

FLY
Air New Zealand offers flights between Sydney and Melbourne to Dunedin, with one stopover (either Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch). See airnewzealand.co.nz

STAY
A two-bedroom apartment at The Thomas Gregg Apartments from $NZ790 ($722) for two nights, two people. See thethomasgregg.co.nz

BIKE HIRE
Bike House Dunedin – one-day bike hire from $NZ70 ($64). See bikehouse.co.nz

FERRY
Port-to-Port ferry $NZ20 ($18) a person and $NZ15 ($14) a bike, one way. See porttoport.co.nz

MORE
dunedinnz.com

The writer was a guest of Enterprise Dunedin.