Nine must-do highlights of Margate, England

As one of Britain’s original seaside resorts, Margate was a wildly popular UK holiday destination from as far back as the 1700s. But its fortunes changed in the 1970s after the introduction of cheap international package holidays, leaving the Kent town devastated and mostly abandoned for decades. It wasn’t until 2011 that the tide turned, with investment into the Turner Contemporary art gallery kick-starting a creative renaissance.

Margate has been magnetising artists, musicians and DFLs (Down From Londoners) ever since, creating a vibrant and eclectic community who’ve opened independent galleries, creative seafood restaurants, sustainable boutiques and hip bars.

While the gritty edges of a chequered past remain, a flurry of exciting additions like chic hotels, have cemented Margate’s cultural regeneration – a place where it’s as easy to get a single origin espresso as it is fish and chips with a pint to enjoy on the sand.

The hotel

The hotel’s artist co-owner Tom Gidley personally selected art for the boutique stay.Credit: Ed Reeve

Perched on the hill opposite the iconic Turner Contemporary, Fort Road Hotel beautifully reimagines the derelict bones of an historic 1820s boarding house. The elegantly understated property offers heritage appeal with a contemporary edge – sepia-toned photos of Old Margate line solid wood panelled halls while the subterranean double-height bar with exposed brick features a Tracey Emin neon work above the archway vault.

Local co-owner and artist Tom Gidley handpicked all the art in this boutique bolthole. The 14 rooms exercise pared-back eclectic luxury, with handmade Mexican glazed tiles, openable windows, vintage mid-century furniture, herringbone marble floors, Kvadrat linen curtains, local Haeckels bath products and funky Hay Sowden kettles. It’s worth paying extra for sea views, the best found in the spacious top-floor suite, but regardless, guests can catch a famous Turner sunset from the rooftop terrace.

When hunger strikes, all-day restaurant Colina, helmed by head chef Luis Freitas, is a must for nostalgic, lip-smacking Southern European specialities. From $232 (£120) a night. See fortroadhotel.com

The gallery

Cap off a gallery visit with a coffee and treat by the sea at the Staple Stores cafe.Credit: Visit Thanet

Turner Contemporary put Margate back on the map. Experience this town’s long artistic history (and future) with free entry to a rolling program of temporary exhibitions, events and learning opportunities. Cap off your visit with a pitstop at Louie On Sea – cafe by day, supper club by night and aperitivo and music in between. See turnercontemporary.org

The major attraction

Dreamland is Britain’s oldest surviving amusement park – including the wooden Scenic Railway, the UK’s first roller coaster. Once a hallmark of Roaring Twenties hedonism, retro-feeling Dreamland offers English seaside funfair nostalgia and a space for large music events.

Renovated and reopened in 2015, punters enter for free using a pay-per-ride system, with carnival favourites like roller coasters, the Chair-O-Plane, Big Wheel and Ghost Train. The Roller Disco is another must and the park welcomed a permanent Banksy mural in 2022. See dreamland.co.uk

The seafood-focused wine bar

Wine isn’t just an after-thought at sustainable seafood diner Dory’s.

Locally caught seafood is a highlight of a coastal escape and Margate has wonderful options in spades. Using only the freshest, most sustainable catches, Dory’s is a small, friendly venue with an open kitchen-bar owned by the same team as renowned Angela’s around the corner (awarded the town’s first Michelin star in 2020). Relaxed and creative, grab yourself a bar stool, order a glass of wine and share a selection of delicious small plates, like perfectly punchy and tender mussels in vinaigrette. For seafood and wine with a view, Sargasso, found on Margate’s harbour arm, is a must. See angelasofmargate.com

The restaurant

Dishes are inspired by owner Simona Caruso’s village in Campania.

There’s no shortage of great restaurants in Margate, but family affair Bottega Caruso feels special. Owned by couple Simona Caruso and Harry Ryder, the cosy restaurant could easily be mistaken as their home. Dishes are inspired by Caruso’s village in Campania, using the best produce on offer in Kent. The team cures local pork in-house, delicious bread is supplied by a local Ramsgate baker who doesn’t sell to the public, and the incredible tomato sauce, chilli and herbs are imported from Caruso’s family’s property in Italy. Intimate and unpretentious with attentive service, this is one to book in advance. See bottegacaruso.com

The coffee

A day trip to Margate was all that sealed the deal for latte-art champion Will Pitts, owner of Forts. After nabbing a rundown shop between Walpole Bay Tidal Pool and Old Town, he realised his dream of owning a cafe and quickly became the go-to for Margate’s best cup of coffee. See instagram.com/fortscoffee

The pub

The vibrant, historic pub features original works by Rose Blake.

The Rose in June dates back to the early 1800s. Its recent renovation has rendered it both brilliantly traditional and colourfully eclectic, with original artwork by Rose Blake. There are tasty pints, a beer garden for sunny days and the pub often features food pop-ups from local venues. See roseinjune.co.uk

The shopping area

Old Town is ideal for meandering, particularly along King and High Streets, with an array of local boutiques in pretty pastel-painted Georgian terraces. Antique and vintage shopping is the main flavour in Margate’s scene, with many bric-a-brac emporiums like Paraphernalia and sustainable vintage-meets-designer fashion stores like Positive Retail, WerkHaus, Breuer & Dawson and Handsome Freaks.

The quirky outing

Margate is full of quirks – like the only museum in Europe dedicated to crabs – but to explore a local mystery for yourself, head to Shell Grotto. The subterranean chamber is lined with millions of delicate shells. First discovered in 1835, Victorian women often used the altar room for seances, but the grotto’s age and origin story remains unknown. The ornate underground chalk tunnels are intricately decorated with swirling patterns made by a mind-boggling 4.6 million cockle, mussel, whelk, limpet, scallop and oyster shells. Some believe the formations depict everything from trees of life to goddesses. Whatever your take, it’s a work of art. See shellgrotto.co.uk

The writer travelled with assistance from VisitBritain and Visit Thanet.