The boardwalk
The bustling boardwalk at dusk.
The Halifax boardwalk, which stretches for four kilometres along the harbourfront, is the beating heart of the city. As well as restaurants, bars and beer gardens it is home to museums (the Canadian Museum of Immigration is a must), playgrounds, public art installations and galleries. Take a ferry to Georges Island National Historic Site, hire a kayak or relax on an Adirondack chair. Day or night, there’s always something happening. See novascotia.com
Georges Island National Historic Site.
The farmers’ market
Established in 1750, the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market claims to be the oldest, continuously operating farmers’ market in North America. Open on weekends in Pavillion 23, it dishes up everything from organically farmed produce to plant-based smoothie bowls, Halifax honey to ready-to-go Indian meals. Throw in freshly baked pastries, smelly cheeses and craft beer and it’s the perfect pit-stop for creating your own gourmet picnic basket. Handcrafted jewellery, wood products and screen-printed clothing make for the perfect souvenir. See halifaxfarmersmarket.com
The harbour cruise
Loose change buys very little these days, but for $C2.75 ($3.15) a jaunty blue and gold ferry will whisk you across the harbour to the quirky village of Dartmouth. Catch live tunes, sample craft beer or enjoy the vibrant street murals. If you head back to Halifax in under 90 minutes – which still allows time for a coffee and croissant at the delightful Two if by Sea cafe – the return crossing is free. Note: If you buy your ticket at the Halifax ferry terminal, you’ll need the exact change. See halifax.ca/transportation/halifax-transit
The historic site
Halifax Citadel National Historic Site.
It’s well worth the huff and puff up Citadel Hill to see the star-shaped Halifax Citadel National Historic Site up close. While the original version was constructed in 1749, the same year Halifax was founded, the present citadel has loomed over the city since 1856. Operated by Parks Canada, highlights include the sentry change (on the hour), noon gun, army museum and guided tours (included with entry fee). Ghost tours run from mid-July to late-October. If you prefer your spirits of the distilled kind sign up for a gin, whisky and rum tasting guided by a kilted 78th highlander. See parks.canada.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/halifax
The waterfront restaurant
Pasta and wine at The Bicycle Thief.
It would be a crime not to dine at The Bicycle Thief, a much-loved local favourite at Bishop’s Landing. Billed as “North American food with an Italian soul” the extensive menu - playfully divided into first, second and high gear – is seafood rich, with a wide variety of meat and pasta options. The fresh crab ravioli with butter poached shrimp and limoncello cream will steal your heart. Nab an outdoor table for people watching and views of the harbour. See bicyclethief.ca
The museum
It’s easy to spot the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic – just look for the 55-metre CSS Acadia docked out front. Inside the waterfront museum you’ll uncover stories about Nova Scotia’s rich maritime heritage; from its boatbuilding days to the sinking of the Titanic to the 1917 Halifax Harbour explosion. A continuing exhibit, Ta’n me’j Tel’keknuo’ltiek: How Unique We Still Are reflects the ongoing connection the Mi’kmaw people have with the land and sea. maritimemuseum.novascotia.ca
The garden
Halifax Public Gardens .
Located in the heart of the city, Halifax Public Gardens offers a green alternative to the busy waterfront. Established in the 1800s it is one of the finest surviving examples of a Victorian garden in North America, with the ponds, pathways and well-pruned flower beds to prove it. A program of events includes poetry readings and puppets shows, free concerts in summer, and caroling and hot chocolate over the festive season. See halifaxpublicgardens.ca
The landmark hotel
The Lord Nelson Hotel and Suites is the city’s most historic hotel, built in 1928 for the hotel division of the Canadian Pacific Railway it takes pride of place opposite the Halifax Public Gardens. Now independently owned, this grand old dame still retains a sense of grandeur an occasion, while the 262 guest rooms and suites have recently been given a contemporary, yet elegant makeover. You’ll find The Arms restaurant just off the lobby or step onto Spring Garden Road for an array of dining and entertainment options. Big names such as The Rolling Stones, Keith Urban, Paul McCartney and Jerry Seinfeld are reputed to have stayed here. See lordnelsonhotel.ca
The chocolate shop
Things don’t get sweeter than an artisanal chocolate shop, owned by a family that arrived in Nova Scotia as Syrian refugees, and who now donate a percentage of all company returns to the Peace on Earth Society. Projects supported include Peace for Ukraine, Welcome to Canada for refugees and Peace of Mind for mental health. Choose between peanut butter and honey, caramel truffle, blueberry and white chocolate or even milk chocolate covered pretzels. Go on, one peace won’t hurt. See peacebychocolate.ca
One more thing…
It’s a little-known fact that Halifax played a major role in the recovery of victims after the sinking of the Titanic. This grim connection can be found at various sites across the city including the Fairview Lawn cemetery, Titanic and Iceberg Exhibit and the Five Fishermen restaurant (former funeral home).
Kerry van der Jagt was a guest of Destination Canada and Atlantic Tours
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