Mid-century masterpiece offers Mad Men vibes in the heart of Lisbon

Any minute now, Don Draper could walk through the door. The fictional advertising executive from Mad Men, set in 1960s New York City, would certainly look at home in my swanky suite at Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon.

The luxury hotel in the heart of Portugal’s capital is a mid-century fantasy come to life, right down to the wood-panelled hallways, boucle armchairs and Marshall speakers.

The hotel’s new outdoor swimming pool.

The hotel is an original, inaugurated in 1959 at the behest of prime minister Antonio de Oliveira Salazar, then-leader of the Portuguese governing dictatorship.

The hotel filled the void at the time of first-class accommodations worthy of visiting dignitaries.

Although the city has sprawled considerably in the intervening 60-plus years, the hotel’s central position and grand accommodations remain a plum choice for well-heeled international visitors.

Sweet dreams … Four Seasons is renowned for its premium beds.

Pandemic travel shutdowns presented a prime opportunity for the owners to commit to a €50 million ($82.8 million) renovation, celebrating the original aesthetic, while updating and modernising facilities. There’s a new outdoor swimming pool and bar, and a rooftop jogging track with city views. Guests can book one-on-one Pilates machine sessions and ESPA facials at the spa.

The organic style, simple lines and functionality of 1950s and 1960s design are still everywhere, from the public spaces to the interiors and balconies of 282 redesigned rooms and suites. The vision of Portuguese architecture studio Oitoemponto in overseeing the renovation was to reimagine “the past for the present”.

A run with a view … Four Season Hotel Ritz Lisbon’s new rooftop running track.

Decorating those dreams is a spectacular mid-century art collection, a museum of prized Portuguese art by acclaimed painters, sculptors and mixed-material artists. Commissioned for the hotel’s grand opening more than a half-century ago by notable local artists including Almada Negreiros, Pedro Leitao and Carlos Botelho, the works now represent one of the most important privately owned collections in the world. The concierge team can help visitors set up a free iPad art app for curated tours at one’s own pace.

With such high-quality in-house pursuits, it’s tempting to remain at the hotel throughout my stay and forego exploring the city. That would be a mistake.

I resist the urge to cocoon, heading out to see Lisbon on foot and from the open-air car of a vintage tram.

Home to one of the city’s most spectacular private art collections.

It’s one of the friendliest cities in Europe, with an infectious warmth and welcome, terrific food and splendid architecture. Any calorie-burn from climbing hilly outlooks and from rummaging through vintage ceramic tiles at the Feira da Ladra flea market is soon extinguished by irresistible custard tarts (pasteis de nata), surely Portugal’s most famous export after Cristiano Ronaldo.

Back at the hotel, I enjoy an excellent mojito on the Ritz Bar terrace, overlooking Eduardo VII Park. It’s Lisbon’s version of New York’s Central Park, a green oasis in the city.

For dinner, the seasonally inspired wonders by Michelin-starred chef Pedro Pena Bastos at CURA are beyond my reach this visit as it’s booked out. I dine instead at Varanda Restaurant, where executive chef Pascal Meynard is doing incredible things with seafood, sending out a sumptuous parade of tuna, blue lobster, John Dory and wild sea bass dishes.

CURA … Squid, hazelnut butter, seaweed toast, caviar oscietra.

Portuguese wine in hand, I chat with the maitre d’ about the hotel’s history: at first a Ritz property, it became part of the revered Four Seasons portfolio in 1997.

Two hallmarks you can always count on from Four Seasons hotels, anywhere in the world, are impeccable service and premium beds.

During my stay, front desk attendants remember my name, cheerfully update me on Matildas’ match scores and track down an art print from a local designer I admire. And the bed? It’s so unbelievably comfortable, I sleep through two wake-up alarms the next morning, dreaming of Mr Draper.

THE DETAILS

Stay

A stay at Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon costs from $1759 a night in a Superior City room. See fourseasons.com

Dine

Varanda Restaurant serves excellent breakfast, lunch and dinner with stunning views of Lisbon’s central park. Book ahead for the popular weekend brunch. See fourseasons.com

Fly

Etihad operates daily direct flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Abu Dhabi with connections to Lisbon. See etihad.com.

More

visitportugal.com

The writer stayed as a guest of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts.