Japan is one of the world’s greatest destinations for families.Credit: iStock
”Hey Dada,” my six-year-old says. “When did Japan start believing in Pokemon?” It’s day three of our journey through the land of the rising sun and we’re getting to the big questions.
Why are they called waiters if we’re the ones who have to wait? (We’re embracing the restaurant experience.) Why aren’t there many Japanese people here? (To my kids, a Japanese person is only someone dressed in a kimono.)
Ben Groundwater and family in Japan.Credit: Ben Groundwater
This is a nation I know very well, a place I have visited without my children countless times over several decades. It’s probably my favourite place on Earth.
But still, introduce a four-year-old and a six-year-old into the mix, and you have to start all over again. That’s why we’ve made some mistakes on this trip.
We’re learning on the job here, discovering that some of the previous joys of Japan are suddenly off-limits – plenty of restaurants and izakaya (Japanese pub or tavern) don’t accept children, and anything that requires queuing for long periods is out. But this nation will also reveal attractions and curiosities that pass unnoticed to all but the most inquisitive little minds.
Family travel to Japan isn’t easy. This is a safe destination, but it’s not always well set up for young children.
There are a lot of stairs to climb, a lot of social situations that require best behaviour, a lot of unfamiliar experiences to just accept and enjoy. It’s one, though, where everyone in your family will have a good time. Well, most of the time.
Rule one: Pack light
We’ve taken too much stuff. This is an issue in Japan because you will have to get all that stuff through a busy railway station and onto a packed train, and then through another station, all while herding kids and trying to figure out where you’re supposed to be going. And repeat. The key is to pack as light as you can, to make getting around that bit easier. While we’re on the topic, when you are moving around and you’re desperate for an elevator instead of a set of stairs, keep your eye out for signage – it’s always there. Somewhere.
Rule two: Take a stroller
There is a lot of walking involved in any trip to Japan. Just getting from A to B means walking from your accommodation to the railway station, tackling a million stairs, walking to the platform, changing trains, navigating out of the station and walking to wherever you’re going. My partner and I are clocking up 15,000 steps a day; our six-year-old son must be doing double that on his little legs. It’s for this reason we brought our travel stroller, a Babyzen Yoyo, for our four-year-old. He wouldn’t normally use a stroller – it’s been a good year since we last pulled it out. But in Japan, it’s vital.
Rule three: Stay somewhere with multiple rooms
Mimaru Suites, Tokyo.
It takes about 10 minutes in our first hotel, the Villa Fontaine Grand at Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, to understand the necessity of space. This property is fine for a short stay after a late-night arrival, but a family of four just cannot fit comfortably into a standard Tokyo hotel room. You need more space, preferably with separate rooms so some people can sleep and others can stay up. Our next stay is at an apartment hotel in central Tokyo called Mimaru Suites, which is ideal. The suite has two separate sleeping areas, plus a lounge and a kitchenette. You can’t ask for more: the kids get their own area to play games, do drawings and sleep, while the parents can hang out at night with the lights on.
Rule four: Stay close to transport, places you want to visit
Before booking any accommodation in Japan, pay attention to how close it is to a railway station. If it’s more than 10 minutes’ walk, forget it. This may not sound like much, but kids are going to get tired on this trip, and the last thing you want is to finish your day with a 15-minute slog through busy streets. Japanese public transport is amazing and affordable and you will use it every day, so ensure you’re close to it. Additionally, consider where in cities such as Tokyo and Osaka you will be spending most of your time and book accommodation in or near that area. Otherwise, you will waste a lot of time sitting on trains.
Rule five: Stay in a ryokan
Why stay in a normal hotel in Japan when you have so many more exciting options? There are themed hotels here, plus amazing Airbnb options in traditional homes, basic guesthouses and ryokans. The latter should be on every family itinerary. A ryokan is a Japanese boutique hotel, usually with an onsen attached, and traditional rooms with tatami-mat floors, futon beds and classic decor. We’ve chosen to stay at Kai Matsumoto, a ryokan in the mountainous Nagano prefecture. The kids love it: the chance to dress in traditional yukata gowns, to head down to the onsen and take a dip in the hot-spring pools, to dine on-site with a multi-course kaiseki dinner (including kids’ menu), and then spend the night sleepover-style on their futons.
Rule six: Escape the big cities
Matsumoto Castle, also known as Crow Castle because of its mostly black exterior, was built in the early 16th century. Credit: Getty Images
It’s tempting on any trip to Japan to stick to the “golden triangle” – the big three destinations of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. When travelling with kids, take a break from battling crowds and feeling pressure to tick off attractions and get out of the city for a while. Matsumoto is ideal for us, a relatively quiet locale with a shogun-era castle, a heap of soba noodle restaurants and a hot-spring resort – Asawa Onsen – on the outskirts of town.
Rule seven: Treat transport as an attraction
JR Shinkansen train whizzes past Mount Fuji.Credit: Getty Images
Who needs touristy attractions when getting from A to B is a thrill? I’m talking, of course, about Japan’s shinkansen network, a supremely reliable service of trains that shoot through the countryside at more than 300km/h. We have fun choosing everyone’s eki-ben, or train bento box, at the station beforehand, and then strap in for a whip through the Japanese countryside (with sightings of Mount Fuji on the right-hand side). It’s worth noting, too, that while we have to book (discounted) tickets for the kids to ride the shinkansen, on services such as the Tokyo Metro network, children under 6 ride free.
Child friendly… Ekiben is a bento sold mainly at railway stations.Credit: Getty Images
Rule eight: Don’t over-plan
There’s a formula I try to apply for all family travel: take what you would normally expect to do by yourself in a day, halve it and then halve it again. Then you have what should be possible with two small kids. This is even more important to remember in Japan, where each activity is probably going to involve a lot of walking and a lot of time, and everyone is going to get tired and fed up. Scale things back drastically in Japan. Give everyone time to wander and discover. And don’t spend your holiday constantly thinking about how and when you have to move to the next thing.
Rule nine: Don’t obsess over attractions
Classic, family-focused tourist attractions exist in Japan, of course. There’s Tokyo Disney, Universal Studios, Fuji-Q Highland and countless other theme parks, plus ninja schools and go-kart tours, not to mention kid-focused museums and world-renowned temples and shrines. We basically don’t visit any of them. The reason is simple: Japan itself is an attraction, particularly for kids. This country is so culturally different from home that just existing here is exciting and stimulating for kids. Japanese toilets are attractions. Convenience stores are attractions. Trains are attractions. Arcade parlours are attractions. You don’t always need to make the extra effort – and go to the extra expense – to visit formal tourist sites.
Rule 10: Remember, your kids aren’t perfect
I make a huge effort when I’m in Japan to adhere to local etiquette rules. I don’t eat or drink on the go, I don’t talk on the phone on the street, I’m quiet when I need to be quiet, always respectful. You can try to instil these ideas in your kids, too, but they’re not perfect. At least, mine aren’t. They’re loud on public transport. They constantly need water on the go. They don’t always finish their meals. This is normal and unavoidable. As a parent, you just have to get used to saying “shhhhh”.
Rule 11: Make meals an event
Here’s another everyday occurrence that can become a tourist attraction: eating. Success, however, depends on your choice of restaurant, considering what there will be for the kids to eat, and whether the atmosphere will be suitable for rambunctious rugrats. Our greatest culinary success is yakiniku, the Japanese style of barbecue where you grill your own small cuts of beef at the table. Our little carnivores are in heaven. Yakitori is another hit – it’s just chicken on a stick, but it’s delicious. Tempura works for everyone. Katsu is perfection. And even ramen is a success, despite the difficulty of manoeuvring the noodles. The only surprise letdown for us is sushi, because sushi in Japan is very different to sushi back home, where our kids would normally go for chicken katsu or tempura prawns wrapped in rice. Raw squid is less appealing.
Rule 12: Embrace food courts and konbini
You won’t be eating all meals in restaurants. That’s expensive and hard work. Here are a few more excellent options. Pretty much all major department stores in Japan dedicate their top levels to casual eateries that are reliably family-friendly and affordable. Food courts, such as Senkyaku Banrai, a new dining destination in Tokyo, allow everyone in the family to eat whatever they feel like, but dine together. And then you have konbini, Japanese convenience stores, which sell high-quality, child-friendly food – sandwiches, sushi, fried chicken, gyoza and more – at incredibly low prices.
Shop – and eat. Mitsukoshi Department Store, Ginza.Credit: Alamy
Rule 13: Dine in (at home)
Here’s yet another way to eat in Japan, specifically for parents who are missing the Japanese fine-dining experience. Do it at home. Get yourself an apartment or hotel room with a kitchenette, and shop at depachika (Japanese food halls), many of which are stocked with jaw-dropping ranges of produce – to build a meal for yourself. My partner, Jess, and I stock up on otoro tuna sashimi, A5 wagyu beef and a green salad from the depachika at Mitsukoshi in Ginza, and cook up a storm once the kids have gone to bed.
Rule 14: Japan is safe but not always family-friendly
As a parent planning your first trip to Japan, many people will tell you: Japan is so family-friendly. But that’s not strictly true. Yes, this country is amazingly safe, which provides welcome peace of mind for parents. It’s also very orderly, clean and predictable, which again is a boost. But many parts of society here are not designed with small children in mind. Railway stations, for example, have a lot of stairs, but not always escalators. There are also – compared to Australia at least – very few playgrounds in Japanese cities. And there are many social situations in which rowdy children are not appreciated.
Rule 15: Stop and look for Pokemon
A human Pikachu at Shibuya crossing in Tokyo.Credit: iStock
This holiday is your chance to see Japan in a new way. Yes, having kids along for the ride means missing out on some of the things you – and I – have loved in the past. But travelling as a family here is about enjoying this country afresh. So visit arcade parlours and play the crazy taiko drumming games. Stop at tiny Shinto shrines and just let the kids have a look at them. Go to cafes with robots and ninjas and manga characters. Buy tacky souvenirs. Take a million photos. And always, always, stop to look for Pokemon.
Five family-friendly dining destinations in Tokyo
Senkyaku Banrai
When in Tokyo with kids, you will probably visit TeamLab Planets, a museum and art space that’s incredibly popular. And then you’re going to need something to eat, so walk 10 minutes to Senkyaku Banrai, a new facility packed with restaurants and snack stands. This Edo-era-themed attraction is the perfect place to take kids because everyone can sit together while eating something different. See toyosu-senkyakubanrai.jp
Gonpachi Harajuku
There are plenty of family-friendly food options.Credit: Alamy
There are plenty of options for family-friendly sushi in Tokyo, from pre-packed rolls at convenience stores, to conveyor belt sushi joints, to places such as Gonpachi Harajuku, which serves high-quality sushi at a restaurant where kids are welcome. The style here is “nori-temaki”, sushi served open, on a sheet of nori, for dinners to roll themselves. It’s fun, hands-on dining and the sushi is superb. See gonpachi.jp
Isetan Shinjuku
Children play a taiko drum video game in Shinjuku.Credit: Alamy
Take your pick here at Isetan, one of Shinjuku’s major department stores, and the best for food. You could head to the depachika [Japanese food hall] at the basement level, stock up on delicious takeaway food and have a picnic in nearby Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Or go to the seventh floor Eat Paradise, a collection of casual restaurants serving a wide range of cuisine, all family-friendly. See cp.mistore.jp
Tokyo Ramen Street
Ready to dip your toe (and chopsticks) into one of Japan’s iconic dishes? The main Tokyo railway station has Tokyo Ramen Street, a collection of eight shops that are all second branches of famous ramen restaurants. This is the perfect place to stroll with the family and decide what style you want to try, and how long you are prepared to queue. These restaurants are all used to kids, and they cater to them well. See visit-chiyoda.tokyo
CoCo Ichibanya
Parents, you are going to love Japanese chain restaurants, which are cheap, family-friendly and which offer fast, delicious meals. CoCo Ichibanya – a katsu curry specialist – is our family’s favourite, though you could also try beef and rice bowls at Yoshinoya, tempura and noodles at Tendon Tenya, easy Italian favourites at Saizerya and a whole range of Japanese staples, including breakfasts, at Sukiya.
Five family-friendly accommodation options in Japan
Mimaru Suites Ningyocho, Tokyo
Consider Mimaru Suites your home away from home, the Tokyo apartment you wished you lived in. Most accommodation in this city – hotel room or home – is tiny, which makes the space here even more impressive. Suites have separate sleeping areas for adults and children (in large bunks), plus a lounge area, kitchenette, large bathroom and laundry facilities. The location, just north of Ginza, is also ideal. See mimaruhotels.com
Kai Matsumoto
Hoshino Resorts Kai Matsumoto.
Every family trip to Japan should include a few nights at a ryokan. Kai Matsumoto is a gorgeous property in Asawa Onsen, a hot-springs area on the outskirts of Matsumoto in Nagano. The fit-out is traditional yet luxurious. Its beautiful, spacious rooms have tatami-mat floors and futon bedding. There’s an onsen and sumptuous Japanese-style breakfasts and dinners are included. See hoshinoresorts.com
Mimaru Kyoto Shinmachi Sanjo, Kyoto
Here’s another Mimaru Suites property, though this time in Kyoto, and with Pokemon. The Shinmachi Sanjo property, walking distance to Nijo Castle, has a Pokemon Room, a family-friendly space for four to six people, with Pokemon decor throughout, and five Pokemon hidden throughout the room. Plus you have more essential facilities such as a kitchenette and a laundry. See mimaruhotels.com
Tsubame House, Osaka
Here’s a perfect alternative to family accommodation for those hoping for a cultural experience. Tsubame House is an old-school Japanese home, a throwback to the Showa era, in a quiet though well-located Osaka neighbourhood. The top level is a traditional tatami room with futon beds for the family, while downstairs there’s a full kitchen and a lounge that must have been decorated in the 70s. See airbnb.com
K’s House Tokyo Oasis
Accommodation in Japan, particularly in Tokyo for a group of four people or more, can be cripplingly expensive, which is why K’s House is so attractive. This is a hostel that offers modest four-bed or five-bed rooms to families wanting to stay in the historic Asakusa area. From about $40 a person per night, which is a steal. See kshouse.jp
Ben Groundwater and family stayed as guests of Mimaru Suites and Kai Matsumoto.