I never liked the Gold Coast. Now, as a parent, I love it

The best way to turn a lookout from impressive to amazing, it seems, is to take a six-year-old with you.

“We’re on top of a waterfall, Daddy!” yelps Littl’Un at the Goomoolahra Falls Lookout in Springbrook National Park. She’s not wrong. The waterfall plunges 60 metres off the Springbrook Plateau towards a thickly forested green valley then, at the end, the surging skyline of the place I absolutely did not want to visit.

It would be fair to say I have never previously clicked with the Gold Coast. This is partly because I’d always arrived by bus and found myself in Surfers Paradise surrounded by people who use “party” as a verb. Each to their own, but the enforced fun vibe is not my thing.

Chasing waterfalls: Twin Falls at Springbrook National Park.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

“There’s loads to do, though,” cajoled my wife, adamant that the GC could be a great family holiday destination. “We won’t have to listen to them complain about being bored.”

Thus, the reluctant return was agreed. The Gold Coast would be done differently this time, however, with a car for exploring further afield and two relentlessly boisterous kids in the back seat.

The winding mountain road through Springbrook National Park is tremendous fun, especially when what looks like a pademelon scuttles across the road. The lookouts are soundtracked by birdsong, and the eucalypt waft in the fresh mountain air is rejuvenatingly wholesome.

Rejuvenatingly wholesome only goes so far with a nine- and six-year-old, however. They want continual entertainment, and that task is best outsourced to animals.

Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary has significantly expanded since its early days as a bird sanctuary.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

The Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary is a Gold Coast stalwart. Originally opening as a bird sanctuary in 1947, it has now significantly expanded, with a few exotic interlopers such as tamarins and capybaras in among the native species.

The sanctuary is one of the few places in Australia where visitors can hold a koala. The girls are too young and small to handle CJ, but they coo in delight as the placid eucalyptus muncher nuzzles my wife’s face and then tries to chew my pocket.

Even older than the sanctuary are the Gold Coast’s beaches, which the sprawling modern-day city grew up behind. They’re still the key lure – essentially a 70-kilometre sweep of fine sand punctuated by the odd headland.

Time the tides right at Burleigh Heads, and a shallow lagoon appears on the sand.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

At Burleigh Heads Beach, grumpy old dad gets a much-needed lesson that such glorious beaches are to be used rather than admired. The girls go into battle against the surf, first jumping the waves, then attempting to ride them to shore. They are warrior cat fairy princesses, gleeful in their increasingly convoluted mission.

Time the tides right at Burleigh Heads and a shallow lagoon appears on the sand. It offers more sedate respite, as elaborate castles with high walls are built at the edge. The game is to allow just enough water in to give the castle its own spa pool.

Much less sedate is the waterways cruise with Paradise Jet Boating. There is a morsel of environmental education and a brief pause in the high-octane mayhem for spotting wallabies on South Stradbroke Island, but this is about shameless fun.

Brace for 360 degree spins and manoeuvres into high-speed drifts with Paradise Jet Boating.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

As the skipper pulls off abrupt 360-degree spins and manoeuvres into high-speed drifts, Big’Un’s initially green-looking face brightens. Littl’Un simply grins throughout and howls with raucous laughter that rises above the sound of the engine.

It slowly dawns that such variety is the secret of doing the Gold Coast with kids. You can repeatedly flit between nature, beaches and thrills, stacking the shared experiences up thick and fast.

DC Rivals Hypercoaster’s terrifying 60-metre sheer drop.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

At Warner Bros Movie World, the family rides and stunt driving shows are ticked off, but a giant purple spectre looms overhead.

I’m resigned to riding the DC Rivals Hypercoaster alone. Littl’Un is very much up for the 115km/h top speed, stomach-churning upside-down twists and frankly terrifying 60-metre sheer drop. But she, alas, is too short.

Big’Un is tall enough but considerably less gung-ho. We all assume she’ll chicken out. But after considerable persuasion and the thought of being able to boast to friends at school, she steels herself and steps forward.

The ride is, in turns, fear, exhilaration and invigorated relief. But it’s also one of those milestones – first proper scary rollercoaster – that it’s a heartwarming fatherly privilege to be there for.

My daughter has won out over fear, and the Gold Coast has won out over my long-forged antagonism. Visiting with children gives it a fresh lick of golden paint – and slathers on the sunscreen of shared memories.

The details

Fly
Virgin Australia, Qantas and Jetstar operate flights from Sydney and Melbourne to the Gold Coast. See virginaustralia.com, qantas.com.au, jetstar.com

Stay
Two-bedroom apartments at Solnamara Beachfront Apartments in Burleigh Heads cost from $315 a night, room only. See solnamara.com.au

Do
Springbrook National Park, see parks.des.qld.gov.au

Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary, see currumbinsanctuary.com.au

Paradise Jet Boating, see paradisejetboating.com.au

Warner Bros Movie World, see movieworld.com.au

More
See experiencegoldcoast.com, queensland.com

The writer travelled as a guest of Tourism Australia and Tourism and Events Queensland.