How Bali became the world’s best place to rejuvenate and relax

It was a few decades or so back in Australia when my mother, observing me practising yoga for the first time in the backyard of our family home, quipped: “Next you’ll be meditating with the hippie beads on”.

Since moving to Bali to live with my family in much more recent times, I haven’t had the hippie beads on so much as those red, white-and-black tridatu ceremonial bracelets which have multiplied on my wrist with each Balinese blessing ceremony.

Escape Haven in Canggu hosts nurturing luxury wellness retreats (minimum one week) for women only.

It may have taken the past couple of decades for yoga and meditation to become truly mainstream. But I’ve noticed that the move to other holistic wellness pursuits - where mental, physical and social factors are all taken into account - is definitely gaining pace.

Sure enough, when Janine Hall, founder of Bali’s new Escape Haven (see below), surveyed a global network of 500 women, she asked respondents to state their top three priorities in 2022. The results? Mental health came out on top (71 per cent), physical health (67 per cent) and making time for self-care (56 per cent) all rated above even career and financial security.

“The results align with the global post-pandemic values-shift where wellness travel is viewed as a necessity rather than a luxury,” Hall says.

Last year, the non-profit Global Wellness Institute listed “awareness and acceptance of mental health and its nuances” as a top trend, reporting that more focused intervention programs “like meditation, breathwork, and holistic practices continue to grow”.

Given my (relatively) early dabbling in holistic practices in a decidedly less exotic locale than Bali, and the island’s reputation as a world-beating wellness destination, it’s perhaps not surprising that I’ve taken an interest in the gamut of Bali’s more esoteric experiences, from healing Balinese massages to consciousness-bending breathwork sessions.

Here are my recommendations for the best places on the “Island of the Gods” to rejuvenate, re-energise and renew or simply to relax.

Pyramids of Chi, Ubud

Pyramids of Chi is a project by Australian couple Peter and Lynn McIntosh.

The lowdown In 2013, Australians Peter and Lynn McIntosh had a calling to build two structures in the tradition of sacred pyramid geometry. Four years later, Pyramids of Chi was born and its two central pyramids have since become a beacon for people wanting to experience the spiritual energy that Ubud is known for. Ancient sound healing uses gongs, bells and other sounds alongside vibration and breathing techniques to help symptoms related to stress, anxiety, sleep deprivation and anxiety. Cacao ceremonies, a sacred Mayan tradition where a pure cacao drink is shared in a group to help build deeper connections, is often held in combination with a kirtan ceremony, a yogic practice using music and ceremonial chanting. There are also monthly celebrations of the full and new moons plus akashic heart readings, breathwork therapy and inner-child healing.

Something special The “light sound therapy” combines kaleidoscopic lights, a vibrating water bed and intriguing soundtrack (featuring a didgeridoo), that essentially distracts users from the problems of the day in order to deeply relax.

Open 8.30am to 6.30pm. Sound healing sessions 11am and 3pm daily. From $25. See pyramidsofchi.com

The Asa Maia, Uluwatu

Asa Maia

The lowdown Ten luxuriously refitted traditional Javanese wooden houses sit in a tropical garden alongside a central swimming pool, infrared sauna, fire pit and two, deep hot and cold contrast therapy baths that are sunk deep below ground level. There’s a yoga shala on the upper floor and a pool-level balcony restaurant serving vegetarian and vegan fare (but also pescatarian). The resort prides itself on building connections between mind, body and soul through holistic experiences including hypnotherapy, tummo breathwork (a Buddhist breathing technique, similar to the Wim Hof method, that increases body temperature and oxygenates the blood to bring about feelings of wellbeing - ie a pretty amazing high) and meditation. Blind massage, the first of its kind offered in Bali, is another heavenly experience where touch is imbued with deeper meaning and connection.

Something special Contrast therapy, where participants are challenged to immerse for two minutes in Bali’s coldest pool (set at six-degrees Celsius) by using breath techniques, takes participants way beyond their perceived capabilities.

Suites from $650 a night. Day passes for pool and wellness activities also available. See theasamaia.com

The Sacred River Spa at Four Seasons Resort, Sayan

Yoga at Four Seasons Sayan. Credit: Four Seasons Sayan

The lowdown On the banks of the Ayung River, this spa is in a serene jungle oasis with incense-scented nurturing at its heart. The focus is about restoring inner-energies through Balinese traditions. The spa has it all: warm river stone massages; rice and spice body scrubs; personalised facials (including a decadent Codage treatment) and chakra ceremonies using crystals, massage, essential oils and coloured light to channel energy.

Something special The two-hour muladhara chakra ceremony is designed for frequent travellers. This grounding chakra at the base of the spine helps keep emotions and actions in check. The ceremony includes a Balinese kemenyan smoke ceremony (relaxing on a stool with smoking wood underneath), a deep massage with essential oils, accompanied by singing bowls.

Resort rooms and villas from $950. The spa is open 9am-9pm to non-staying guests. Chakra ceremonies from $340, massages from $175. See fourseasons.com

Udara Bali, Seseh

The lowdown Udara has rock-star status among those keen to supplement their yoga and meditation practice with more out-there experiences. The retreat features calming wooden peak-roofed yoga shalas with dramatic oceanfront views; a pool and spa area with a mystical meditation cave, and a cafe with a healthy menu that teams fresh produce with local seafood. Detox, transformation and energy upgrades range from three to 28 days. Yoga classes range from a daily schedule of vinyasa, hatha and yin to rooftop aerial yoga complete with sea breezes. More esoteric practices include sound floats, cacao and kirtan ceremonies (see above), shamanic breathwork ceremonies and kundalini activation.

Something special Challenge yourself to an “ecstatic dance” in which well-known Indonesian DJs take dancers on a musical journey, from deep, to hypnotising to uplifting tunes. It is all about getting comfortable with your inner-self on the dance floor (ie it’s drug and alcohol free).

Retreat accommodation including six classes a day, special ceremonies, and use of all facilities, from $300 a night. Day passes and individual class passes available online. See udara-bali.com

Taman Beji Griya waterfall, Badung Regency

Taman Beji Griya waterfall.

The lowdown At Taman Beji Griya, the water purification ceremony known as Melukat and the paradisiacal location go hand-in-hand. With the help of a guide, visitors offer flowers, incense and offerings at shrines dotted along a creek bed (with snakes carved into its bank), in sacred caves (where water spills from far above catching the sunlight), and at two picturesque waterfalls. This ceremony is an integral part of the spiritual and cultural lifestyle of the Balinese, often done around the full moon. It helps purify the body and reignite the mind through water immersion, and paves the way to health and happiness.

Something special Toward the end of the ritual, visitors must get rid of pent-up anger and emotion by screaming until your throat hurts into the first waterfall, and then laughing uproariously into the second waterfall. The release of negative energy followed by laughter (which comes naturally given the circumstances) makes you feel palpably better.

There’s a special guest desk for foreigners who will be allocated a guide and given a sarong to wear over (BYO) swimsuits. It costs about $18.

Talise Spa, Jumeirah resort, Uluwatu

Talise Spa

The lowdown Jumeirah resort, which opened mid-2022, is themed like the Hindu water palaces of the 14th century Majahapit empire. And given the resort’s parent company hails from Dubai, it makes sense that Talise Spa blends Balinese traditions with Arabic therapies. Hindu-Javanese inspired holistic facial treatments, energising massages, cleansing scrubs, and stress-release therapies are the hammam speciality. There’s also a sauna, steam bath, Vichy shower treatments and a cleansing ritual that times with the moon cycles.

Something special A two-hour Royal Campa hammam treatment focuses on intense cleansing and detoxification for deep relaxation. Participants lie on a heated marble slab in a steamy room to be scrubbed (using Arctic salt flakes and marine clay), cleaned, massaged and moisturised.

Villas from $1300 a night. The spa is open to non-staying guests from 9am-9pm daily. Massages from $120. See jumeirah.com

The Yoga Barn, Ubud

The lowdown In the past 15 years, this Ubud icon has grown into a global epi-centre for yoga, healing and wellness with seven yoga shalas and two healing spaces spread around a tropical garden. Kush Spa specialises in ayurvedic massages, Garden Kafe dishes out nourishing food with all the dietary ticks including raw, vegan and vegetarian. There’s accommodation too. It offers in excess of 100 weekly classes from healing yoga nidri and guided meditation, to shadow dance and tea gong workshops, and seven-day healing retreats.

Something special Catch the Tibetan bowl sound meditation with Pak Wakuhu every Tuesday at 7.15pm. Participants lie on mats and slowly drift into another realm of consciousness as the resonant ringing sounds vibrate around the shala.

Double rooms from $100. Single drop-in classes $15, less if you buy more. See theyogabarn.com

Soulshine resort, Ubud

Infinity pool at Soulshine.

The lowdown Well-known American musician Michael Franti (touring Australia in April) and his partner, Sara, have recently upsized their resort to offer both traditional villa-style rooms and modern lux suites. The latter are kitted-out with acoustic guitars, Marley record players and vinyl collections (based on your pre-selected music taste). There are three pools, a waterslide and a bar-cum-restaurant with an intimate stage where Michael and his muso mates get the party started. Soulshine is a place of spirituality and healing too, offering a variety of retreats with themes including Pilates, dance, writing, photography and yoga, plus private sound-healing sessions and spa treatments.

Something special The signature seven-night Soulrocker Music retreat hosted by Michael and Sara is “wellness, but with a rock and roll edge”. Highlights include yoga classes where Michael accompanies the final savasana with his best-loved hits.

Rooms from $300. Seven-night retreats from $5630. See soulshinebali.com

Waroeng Djamoe Spa, Hotel Tugu, Canggu

The lowdown Hotel Tugu is lauded for its incredible collection of Indonesian antiques and artefacts. Amid the frangipani trees, its traditional spa riffs off this theme, offering heritage treatments from ancient Balinese, Javanese and Chinese Peranakan cultures. Javanese deep-tissue massages, hair and scalp treatments, and herbal baths along with Balinese dance massages inspired by rhythmical temple dances and gamelan music are on offer. The new wooden Guan Yin yoga pavilion is a space for meditation sessions, sound healing and classic yoga practices including hatha and yin.

Something special The 90-minute eastern spirituality massage is a coconut oil, herb and spice rub accompanied by soft vocal incantations for a deep relax. The 90-minute jamu, or djamoe, explores traditional herb and spice concoctions used in healing and rejuvenation.

Suites and villas from $430. Drop-in yoga classes $13. Massages from $40. See tuguhotels.com

Escape Haven, Canggu

Haven women-only wellness sanctuary, Canggu.

The lowdown Escape Haven hosts nurturing luxury wellness retreats (minimum one week) for women only. The focus is on self-care through limitless yoga and spa experiences, healthy food indulgences, healing rituals, ceremonies and excursions. The idea is that guests don’t lift a finger. Retreat package themes including revive, surf, refresh yoga, renew fitness, ayurveda healing, detox, Pilates, bucket-list and Bali healing.

Something special The Bali healing package is the most popular. It’s designed for guests emerging from the rigours of the pandemic who are seeking rest and relaxation along with a deeper healing experience. It includes chakra balancing, Balinese massages and a Balinese “melukat” or letting-go ceremony on Batu Bolong beach.

Week-long retreat packages from $3880, all-inclusive. See escapehaven.com

TEN MORE BALINESE SPAS AND RETREATS TO CONSIDER

Karma Spa, Karma Kandara resort, Uluwatu

Sitting atop limestone cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean, Karma Kandara resort’s Karma Spa has daily yoga, meditation, reiki and hypnotherapy classes alongside spa and beauty treatments. A couples’ ocean spa suite with an infrared sauna and 180-degree sea-view spa, is one of Bali’s best wellness locations. See karmagroup.com

Mekar Spa, K-Club, Ubud

In an arching bamboo pavilion surrounded by jungle, Mekar spa is a soothing antidote to the resort’s three-level day club. The “farm-to-spa” experiences draw on natural, organic and native ingredients to complement a modernised version of Bali’s unique healing and wellness therapies. Stand-outs include “chocolicious” massages, honey-heavy facials and seaweed extract body wraps. See kclububud.com

Alchemy Yoga and Meditation Centre, Ubud

Magnificent copper-topped bamboo structures, including the new Shiva Shala, are among the drawcards to this yoga and meditation hub, which puts a modern spin on traditional hatha and tantric yoga styles. Choose from a schedule theme by Earth elements (water, air, earth etc) and drop by after hours for extracurricular gong and kirtan ceremonies and DJ-led ecstatic dance sessions. See alchemyyogacenter.com

One World, Tegallalang and Ubud

Ayurveda draws on the centuries-old Hindu holistic medicinal system that relies on a natural mind and body approach to health and nutrition. With medical practitioners onsite, One World hosts one-week to one-month specialised Panchakarma (detox) programs and spa-heavy wellness retreats. A new second location has recently opened in Ubud. See oneworldayurveda.com

Desa Seni hotel, Canggu

Antique villas, wood-carved curios and a curated collection of Indonesian fabrics and artefacts add to the rustic vibe of Desa Seni. The hotel offers three-night to one-week packages for guests wanting to recharge through daily yoga (including vinyasa, kundalini and yin), meditation and pranayama breathing classes, along with massages and reflexology. Classes are open to the public. See desaseni.com

Bulgari Spa, Uluwatu

Bulgari Spa is housed in stunning open-air wood carved pavilions on the cliff tops of Uluwatu, where the waves hitting the shore below become the soundtrack to a collection of Balinese beauty rituals amped to decadent levels: Balinese four-hand massage with two therapists; lulur body exfoliation (lulur is a Bahasa Indonesian word meaning scrub) traditionally for brides and hot stone massages using Bali’s volcanic rocks. See bulgarihotels.com

Mulia Spa, The Mulia resort, Nusa Dua

Mulia Spa is in the resort’s spacious contemporary wellness centre with high-pitched thatched ceilings, limestone brick walls and lines that evoke a sense of refined calm. It panders to every whim, from wood saunas, ice rooms and hydrotherapy pools to indulgent massages and facials and traditional sound healing experiences. See themulia.com

Gdas Bali, Kumbuh

Gdas is a new lux resort combining state-of-the art facilities with holistic healing. Speciality five-night retreats focus on sleep, emotional balance, detox and balancing the mind, with an all-inclusive line-up of nutritious plant-based food, daily yoga (hot and cold), meditation sessions, full spa access, temple purifications and evening aromatherapy. See gdasbali.com

Sanctuary, Potato Head, Seminyak

Sanctuary spa has taken its cue from Pyramid of Chi (above) with its vibroacoustic audio visual therapy, breathwork and sound-healing offerings. It’s more modern, but the aim is similar: release emotional blockages, heal past traumas, elevate the mind to reach a higher level of consciousness. See seminyak.potatohead.co

Como Shambala, Ubud

Como Shambala owes much of its long-held popularity to its natural jungle setting, with landscaping, shrines, stepping stones, traditional architecture and long-drop waterfalls evoking the Bali of old. Expert consultations help guests build individual wellness programs that include eating plans, yoga and meditation sessions, spa treatments and health and fitness plans. See comohotels.com