Houseboat holidays on the Hawkesbury: I wish this was my life

Oh Buoy, a 1970s houseboat, restored from its dilapidated state by hand.

As I watch the winking morning sun draw golden webs across the wood-panelled houseboat ceiling, a mug of steaming coffee warming my hands, a thought bubble rises above my head: could this be our life? It's a question, I've discovered, that reveals only the most superior travel experiences – those that give you a blueprint for a better life.

Could this be us, living at a slight remove from the hum of the world, floating on the backwaters of the Hawkesbury River surrounded by nothing but water and bushland?

Swimming off the deck in summer, heading to dry land only to restock provisions or for the odd meeting, living entirely on solar and rainwater here on our own private island?

Floating on the backwaters of the Hawkesbury River surrounded by nothing but water and bushland.

The question arose many times since being met at the Berowra Waters Marina the previous afternoon by Ginger, a tangerine and white 1970s motorboat captained by a tall, cheery electrician named Laurie Rissman, one of Oh Buoy's owners. We zipped across the bay to Oh Buoy, a 1970s houseboat that Laurie and his wife Jess Rissman,who met us onboard, bought at auction three years ago, and restored from its dilapidated state by hand.

Not only was the boat salvaged, but almost all the interior pieces too, which stay true to Oh Buoy's original retro aesthetic. Everything from the black leather couch and orange mid-century loveseat, to the amber glassware and nautical-themed tapestries, were either gleaned by Jess off the side of the road, or gathered from local vintage stores.

Before leaving us to our own devices, Jess had told us that, "the true beauty of houseboat living is that you're always aware of the phases of the moon and the tide, so you're really in tune with nature."

Not only was the boat salvaged, but almost all the interior pieces too, which stay true to Oh Buoy's original retro aesthetic.

As our first day on the water unfolds, we realise how right she is. The morning light slides from the ceiling down the walls, as we notice the tide rise and realise it's the perfect time to take Ginger for a spin. We guide her along the river, point out our favourite riverside houses and discover hidden coves as we go.

When storm clouds roll over in the early afternoon, we head back to Oh Buoy to set up on the spacious back deck. We tuck into the cheese plate and bottle of red while watching runabouts and river birds pass, accompanied by the gentle hum of two-stroke engines and the slap of water against the hull.

If it were the weekend, and in the unlikely event we'd want to leave, we'd have booked lunch or dinner at Berowra Waters Inn, just a few minutes putter away. Instead we order a Mexican fajita feast from the on-board menu, which also offers Hawkesbury oysters, tiger prawns, chilled vichyssoise and kingfish ceviche. By 8pm we're rocked to sleep by the gently swelling river, while watching the spiral of the heavens from the surprisingly comfortable queen bed.

On our final morning, we wake to find a thick curtain of mist covering the river, cocooning us in our houseboat home. We sip pod coffee in the well-heated living room in matching Captain and First Mate bathrobes as we watch the mist slowly rise to reveal a sun-soaked day, then take the kayak out for a paddle. Afterwards, I climb into Oh Buoy's canvas hammock, watching ribbons of sunlight play in the eucalypts lining the riverbank.

By the time we park Ginger back at the marina, we've decided there's no question: we absolutely must tweak our lives to be more like this. More peaceful, less impactful, and more closely aligned with the natural world.

Nina Karnikowski stayed as a guest of Oh Buoy.

THE DETAILS

STAY

Nights on Oh Buoy from $850, and include use of the motorboat, kayak, stand-up paddleboard and fishing gear, a cheese or fruit platter and bottle of wine on arrival, and a well-stocked pantry. Meals can be ordered in advance from Oh Buoy's on-board menu at extra cost. See ohbuoyhouseboat.com for details or call 0427 227 529.

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