Guide at a glance ... Warrnambool

Drawcard ... Warrnambool is known for conventional beach pursuits, such as surfing, but it's said that buried treasure lies beneath those dunes.

Lee Atkinson goes in search of whales, treasure and some very tasty cheese along the Great Ocean Road.

Why go?

The largest town on the Victorian south-west coast, Warrnambool is a port with a colourful seafaring heritage at the western end of the Great Ocean Road.

What it's known for

Between June and September female southern right whales take up residence in the waters off Logans beach to give birth and it's one of the best shore-based places to see whales and their calves during the winter months. The whales stay in the bay for about two or three months, so frequent visitors to the whale watching platform in the dunes can watch the calves, which are about five to six metres long when they are born, grow — by the time they head back to the southern ocean they are almost double that size. They come close to shore, but you'll get a much better look if you have binoculars.

What you didn't know ...

There's buried treasure hidden in the sand dunes west of Warrnambool, or so the legend goes. In the 1830s some shipwrecked sealers found a decaying wreck in the sand in the Armstrong Bay area and a story grew that it was the remains of a 16th-century Spanish or Portuguese galleon full of treasure. Sometime in the 1880s the wreck seems to have disappeared, possibly covered by shifting sands, and ever since the story of the Mahogany Ship has become more mysterious with each retelling. If you fancy a bit of treasure hunting, follow the Mahogany Ship Walking Track, which follows the coast between Warrnambool and Port Fairy and passes possible sites where the mythical ship may rest. The trail is 22 kilometres long and is mostly on the beach, but if you want to concentrate your search efforts, head to the area east of Gormans Road and west of Levy's Point.

What's new

If you're not keen on the idea of walking all the way to Port Fairy, the new Warrnambool to Port Fairy Rail Trail is a 37-kilometre cycleway that follows the route of a disused railway line. The best thing about rail trails is they are traffic free and because those old trains couldn't haul uphill very well, you don't have to — uphill grades are gentle and suitable for all levels of fitness and riding abilities. portfairytowarrnamboolrailtrail.com.

Don't miss

The mysterious Mahogany Ship is not the only ship (supposedly) full of treasure that has been wrecked on this section of the coast, rather poetically known as the Shipwreck Coast. The Loch Ard came to grief near Port Campbell in 1878. Of the 54 passengers and crew, only two survived, although miraculously, the ship's treasure washed up unscathed: a Minton porcelain peacock — one of only nine in the world — that was destined for the Melbourne International Exhibition in 1880. The peacock is now on display at Flagstaff Hill, an open-air museum created around the original 1859 lighthouses and fortifications that established Warrnambool. The nightly sound and laser show, Shipwrecked, tells the story of the Loch Ard disaster. Merri Street, Warrnambool. Open daily, from 9am to 5pm; show times vary. www.flagstaffhill.com.

Where to eat

Cheese-lovers should call into Allansford Cheese World on the Great Ocean Road just east of Warrnambool for free tastings and a hearty cheese platter (cheeseworld.com.au). For lunch with a sea view try Simon's Waterfront for lunch daily, dinner Tuesday to Sunday, at 80 Pertobe Road, [phone]. Good night-time options include Images Restaurant for steak, seafood and pizza (dinner daily, lunch Sunday to Friday), 60 Liebig Street, [phone], or the Pickled Pig for modern Australian food with Spanish overtones. It's open for dinner Tuesday to Saturday; 78 Liebig Street, [phone].

Where to stay

You don't have to be a guest in order to enjoy a therapeutic soak in one of the geothermal mineral pools ($15 for one hour in the public pool, $25 for 30 minutes in a private pool) at Deep Blue Hotel & Spa, but it's nice not to have to stumble too far back to your room. Doubles start at about $150. qsdb.com.au. The Gallery Apartments are in the heart of town and have stylish one- and two-bedroom apartments with fully-equipped kitchens, free wi-fi and a heated swimming pool. Rates start at about $185 for two people. warrnamboolgalleryapartments.com.au.

How to get there

Warrnambool is 269 kilometres west of Melbourne, about a three-hour drive via the Princes Highway, or take the much more scenic Great Ocean Road (348 kilometres, but allow a full day).

More information

visitwarrnambool.com.au.

Stayz picks of the week

GALLEYWOOD HOUSE

This spacious, three-bedroom townhouse is located a short distance from Warrnambool's main beach and golf course. Boasting panoramic views of the the foreshore, guests can relax in the property's outdoor entertaining area which has a barbecue, six-seat outdoor setting and hammock.

From $195 a night; sleeps seven. stayz.com.au/67742

10 BANYAN

This four-bedroom home boasts original Victorian features including a fireplace, wide architraves and high ceilings. Within walking distance of beaches, eateries and a children's playground, it's ideal for young families or a group getaway.

From $340 a night; sleeps nine. stayz.com.au/88329

AQUA OCEAN VILLAS

These brand new ocean villas have been architecturally designed with luxury in mind. With sweeping views of the Warrnambool shoreline, the house has a gourmet kitchen and expansive living areas. Restaurants, the beach and Warrnambool's main shopping precinct are nearby. Price on application; sleeps six. stayz.com.au/23815