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Geelong laneways: Victoria's other city with a laneway culture

By Tim Richards
 The 18th Amendment, Geelong.

The 18th Amendment, Geelong.Credit: JACK MURPHY

It's hard to imagine Al Capone in connection with Geelong, but The 18th Amendment is making me think in strange and different ways. It might be the mellow influence of the cocktail I'm sipping, but I imagine the infamous bootlegger would feel right at home in this laneway bar.

Approached up a narrow flight of stairs and decorated with exposed wooden rafters and framed black and white period photos, it has a stylish speakeasy vibe which might appeal to any gangster on the make.

Its cocktails are loosely inspired by the Prohibition era, including the signature Boardwalk Empire. This memorable beverage arrives in a small wooden casket, and when opened there's a momentary sight of the smoke which is a key ingredient, alongside whisky, bitters, almond syrup and apple juice.

This lively bar is a good example of the recent flourishing of dining and drinking venues on Little Malop Street, a narrow laneway in the heart of Geelong's CBD.

"No matter what you want to eat or drink, there's something for everyone here," says Damien Kos-Beckwith, manager of The 18th Amendment, and he's right – there's an impressive array of options along the strip. See the18thamendmentbar.com.au

STAY SOBER WITH RAMEN

My aim is to have a progressive dinner, so it's time for an entree at Sober Ramen. This compact restaurant fusing Japanese and other Asian cuisines is a plainly decorated space with bare concrete walls, slate tiles and timber tabletops.

Despite the simple décor it has a warm and friendly vibe, full of early diners on this Friday evening. I try a few dishes from the starters side of the menu, which includes such delights as steamed greens with sesame miso dressing, spicy calamari, and fried oyster mushrooms. I suspect the spicy calamari would match well with the venue's selection of sake. See facebook.com/soberramen

ARTY LATIN AMERICAN DINING

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Stop number three is Alma. As often seems to be the case in Geelong, it's a restaurant serving a contemporary version of a regional cuisine – in this case South American – without the chef hailing from that area. That's an asset, according to owner Jesse Hughes, allowing "traditional flavours with modern techniques."

It's good food. Locally-sourced beef is a feature of the menu, but a seafood highlight is the barramundi with moqueca sauce; and the vegetarian option of roast cabbage with chilli and chickpea is equally appealing.

The décor here is sleek and dark, with a dash of aquamarine to brighten the walls, and the entrance is dominated by an intriguing painting of a face with dripping paint streaks. See almarestaurant.com.au

DRINKING LOCALLY

Credit: Tourism Greater Geelong ~amp~ The Bellarine

The finale to the evening is a nightcap at Geelong Cellar Door. This place bills itself as "a truly local wine bar", and its shelves are stacked with bottles from wine regions surrounding Geelong. I notice there's comfortable seating near a fireplace in the back too, which is just my speed.

The food menu is dominated by cheese and charcuterie platters, including a vegan variant. This is the perfect place to end my night, enjoying a glass of shiraz from Heroes Vineyard, and not just because of the atmospheric décor with its high ceilings, tiled bar, comfortable booths and wood fire. The place is buzzing with high spirits, filled with groups of friends enjoying wine and good food. What's not to like? See geelongcellardoor.com.au

THE DETAILS

FLY OR RIDE

Jetstar flies to Avalon Airport, near Geelong (jetstar.com); alternatively, Geelong is one hour by train from Melbourne (ptv.vic.gov.au), or just over an hour by ferry (portphillipferries.com.au).

STAY

Quest Geelong offers comfortable apartments in a central location from $177 a night. See questapartments.com.au

MORE

traveller.com.au/geelong

visitgeelongbellarine.com.au

visitvictoria.com

Tim Richards was a guest of Tourism Greater Geelong & The Bellarine.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/traveller/inspiration/geelong-laneways-victorias-other-city-with-a-laneway-culture-20220922-h26msr.html