Don’t call it a town: Queensland’s underrated tropical city

It was last year that Traveller received a miffed letter from a reader about a guide of things to do in Townsville in which we referred to it as an “underrated town”.

Townsville is not a town, the reader pointed out, but one of Australia’s largest cities. Indeed, it’s true – Townsville might be a town by name, but it’s much bigger than that, coming hot on the heels of Geelong and Hobart in the list of Australia’s biggest, with nearly 200,000 residents.

Don’t call it a town … Townsville.Credit: iStock

Of course, the city’s name isn’t based on its size, now or in the past. It’s actually named after Robert Towns, a controversial British settler and businessman who helped establish the city through his finances (he only actually visited once). It quickly became a key port for the goldfields inland, and less than a decade after it first became a settlement in 1865, the new town had grown to 2000 residents.

By the turn of the century, the gold boom was at its peak, and Townsville was reaping the benefits. Those benefits are still apparent today.

Architecturally, Townsville has more in common with the Victorian gold-boom cities of Bendigo and Ballarat than some of its coastal neighbours to the north and south. Heritage buildings abound, with grand old pubs, imposing public buildings and majestic churches located along its major streets.

Townsville’s streets are filled with gold rush-era buildings reminiscent of Bendigo and Ballarat in Victoria.

Also imposing is the HMAS Adelaide, Australia’s largest naval ship, which is docked at the city’s port when we arrive. We also spot fighter jets flying in formation overhead from the nearby RAAF base.

HMAS Adelaide is visible as my family and I head to our accommodation at The Ville, a resort and casino complex located opposite the port and adjacent to the Entertainment and Convention Centre.

It’s one of the most recognisable buildings in the city, rising to 12 storeys on the north-east corner, visible from all along the waterfront. It’s perhaps only surpassed in its iconic status by the central Hotel Grand Chancellor, affectionately known as the “sugar shaker”, which has been part of the skyline for almost 50 years.

The Ville itself has been around since the ’80s but manages to still feel modern, with its spacious, airy lobby delivering relaxed, beachy vibes, thanks to a $43 million refurb in 2018. At the rear is a gorgeous (and deep) pool, complete with bar – a perfect spot to chill out in the tropical heat, which plenty of locals do, taking advantage of the option to purchase day passes.

The Ville’s gorgeous pool.Credit: Tourism and Events Queensland

And while it’s also a casino, it’s also family friendly. We find it hard to resist eating at the hotel’s buffet restaurant, The Palm House, every night after we discover kids eat free. Our fussy toddlers are able to pick and choose as much (or, more commonly, as little) as they want, and we’re not faced with the frustration of ordering full meals that they barely touch.

Despite its tropical setting, resort options have historically been limited in Townsville compared to other Queensland cities.

That’s now starting to change. Next door to The Ville is the five-star Ardo, opened last year and built at a cost of $88 million; the city’s first true luxury resort with 132 rooms, three restaurants, a spa and a rooftop bar and infinity pool.

Both Ardo and The Ville are owned by The Morris Group, which has also launched Pelorus Private Island – an ultra-high-end escape just north of Orpheus Island, reached from Townsville by helicopter.

But my family is here for simpler pleasures. We visit the Queensland Museum Tropics, a short walk from The Ville, where the key collection is items from the HMS Pandora, the ship sent to bring the infamous Bounty mutineers to justice. It managed to capture 14 of them, only to be wrecked on the Great Barrier Reef. As fascinating as I find this historical tale, my kids are far more interested in the life-sized dinosaur replicas.

The imposing HMAS Adelaide docked in Townsville.Credit: iStock

And while infinity pools and swim-up bars might be fine for adults, the highlight for kids is the free public water park on the city’s long waterfront, The Strand, where we visit to kill some time before heading to the airport to return to Melbourne. It’s mid-winter, but hot enough for the youngsters to spend hours splashing around and riding the waterslides and still be bone-dry before we have to catch our flight.

Townsville might sit in the shadow of some of Queensland’s other tourist meccas like Cairns and the Gold Coast, but with its tropical weather, resort-style accommodation options and family-friendly atmosphere, it’s time for this town – excuse me – this city, to get the limelight.

THE DETAILS

Fly
Qantas, Jetstar and Virgin Australia fly from Brisbane to Townsville, while Qantas and Jetstar offer direct flights to the city from Melbourne and Sydney.

Stay
Rooms at The Ville start from about $240 per night. See the-ville.com.au

More
See townsvillenorthqueensland.com.au

The writer travelled with assistance from Townsville Enterprise.