Airport review: Buenos Aires main hub is a workhorse, not a show pony

Ezeiza handles 85 per cent of international traffic in Buenos Aires. Credit: iStock

THE AIRPORT

Ministro Pistarini International Airport, also known as Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), Buenos Aires' main hub for international flights.

THE FLIGHT

American Airlines flight AA954 from Buenos Aires, Argentina to New York City, US.

THE ARRIVAL

Attempting to hail a taxi in soccer-mad Buenos Aires while Argentina is playing in a World Cup match is not a great idea. The streets are empty but the bars are full of locals and taxi drivers. I soon join them, abandoning the plan to get to the airport early. After the match ends (go, Messi!), the hotel doorman flags down an official yellow-and-black taxi. Although the driver is obligated to use the meter, he refuses, and I don't have time to argue. We agree on a flat cash rate of $US30 ($44) for the 50-kilometre trip from Recoleta to Ezeiza International Airport. The doorman assures me it's the best option, as Ubers are scarce and may take a long time to arrive. The journey takes about 45 minutes, winding through some of the prettiest parts of the city, including Avenida 9 de Julio. There's a public bus option that saves money but not time.

THE LOOK

There are three interconnected terminals at EZE; most international flights depart from Terminal A, where I'm headed. The larger of Buenos Aires' two airports, Ezeiza handles 85 per cent of international traffic. Opened in 1949 as one of the major projects of the Peron presidency, it's now showing its age. Functional but not fancy, the multi-level building could do with a bit less harsh lighting, a bit more ambience. I wouldn't want to be spending the night in the terminal.

CHECK IN

Just a handful of people are ahead of me in the American Airlines check-in queue on Terminal A's ground floor, where I drop off my luggage and pick up a boarding pass. It's a different story on the first floor departure level, where hundreds of people - many in blue Argentina jerseys, waving flags - are lined up to go through security and passport control. I correctly guesstimate it will take at least an hour to make it to the gate.

SECURITY

The sheer number of people slows things down, though the system itself works well enough. When I make it to the front of the line, I move quickly through the X-ray machine and have my passport stamped.

FOOD + DRINK

Plenty of options, including Hard Rock Cafe, McDonald's, pizza and coffee shops. The local choice is Havanna, where you'll find good coffee and sweet treats in take-home boxes.

RETAIL THERAPY

In addition to several bookstores, jewellers and pharmacies, there are shops selling regional Argentinian products. There's wine, naturally, plus jars of dulce de leche, nougat and beef jerky. US-bound passengers are subject to an additional bag search at the gate and may not carry liquids over 100 mls, even if bought at the duty-free shops.

PASSING TIME

If I had more time to kill, I'd check out one of the for-fee airport lounges, such as Aeropuertos VIP Club. Open 24/7, it has showers, snacks and drinks available for $US50 a person. There are also several membership lounges, including Star Alliance and Latam VIP Lounge.

THE VERDICT

A workhorse, not a show pony. If you're not flying to the US, pick up last-minute gifts of Argentine wine and sweets at the duty-free shops.

OUR RATING OUT OF FIVE

★★★

Kristie Kellahan flew courtesy of Viking. See viking.com