Accommodation review: Simpson Cottage, Bundeena - historic property where Royal National Park is your playground

There are three good-sized bedrooms.

CHECK-IN

The village of Bundeena in NSW's Royal National Park has long been a southern weekend bolthole for in-the-know Sydneysiders craving quiet beaches, fragrant bush, solitary walks, a kayak on calm waters or a spot of dolphin and whale watching just 80 minutes away by car. Drive through winding coastal streets until a white picket fence at the end of a cul de sac opens to reveal 180 degree water views framed by cockatoo-splashed towering gums and landscaped gardens. Here, Simpson Cottage has ruled its spectacular roost overlooking Simpson's Bay for more than 150 years.

THE LOOK

Simpson Cottage is one of Sydney's best-preserved sandstone homes.Credit: Good Thanks Media

Market gardener George Simpson was one of the first men to be granted land in the area. His cottage, built in the 1860s with the help of convict muscle, is one of Sydney's best-preserved sandstone homes. But this is no poky shrine to yesteryear. The three-bedroom cottage has wide verandahs and is light and airy with high ceilings and natural tones. It last changed hands in 2010, and has undergone sympathetic renovation that has only emphasised its stately beauty. But always competing for attention is that view, best enjoyed on waking from the front bedroom; in a chair on the sunny front verandah, or from the cottage's picnic table under trees plonked right in front of that sparkling bay.

THE COTTAGE

There are three good-sized bedrooms, the front one has a queen bed; the second has a king that can be reconfigured to two singles, and the third has bunks. There's a cavernous bathroom with a stand-alone tub (candles and salts supplied) and underfloor heating. The well-equipped kitchen has a pod coffee maker plus a stove-top option and good teas. Just outside is a six-burner barbecue. A separate garage or kids' retreat has a TV, another bathroom and pinball machine. The cottage has so many suntraps and cosy spots that there is no need to "bags" your favourite. The front sitting room has an open fire and there's an outdoor fire-pit with seating, but that picnic table with the incredible views - lit with solar fairy lights at night to magical effect - is hard to beat. Head just past this down original stone steps to secluded Bonnie Vale Beach.

OUT & ABOUT

The Royal National Park is your playground here, with many waterfall-dotted bush walks and panoramic views to choose from. Bonnie Vale Beach and campground has cute beach shacks. Here you can swim, fish, hire a kayak (bundeenakayaks.com.au), or spot deer as you walk a bit further to the village of Maianbar. The easy five-kilometre Jibbon Beach Loop Track starts at the ferry wharf and offers surf beaches, views to Cronulla, and Indigenous rock carvings (look out for the roo and the whale.) To head further afield, Boats and Baskets (boatsandbaskets.com.au) will pick you up and drop you at a picnic spot across the water where you can enjoy something they prepared earlier. Or if you fancy a ferry ride and a faster pace, catch the Bundeena ferry to Cronulla for breakfast and a spot of shopping. But George Simpson knew what he was doing when he built his namesake cottage: once you sit in the sunshine with a glass in one hand and a book in the other, you won't want to venture far.

FOOD & WINE

Bundeena is more a picnic than a foodie hub, with myriad spots to spread out with a water view. In town, I Grill wine and gin bar (igrill.com.au) has 20 gins to choose from, including the Sutherland Shire's own Ruby Wednesday has a mix of cuisines. There's the reliable Bundeena Pizza; Driftwood Cafe; the aptly-named Brown Paper and Vinegar cafe for burgers and fish 'n chips, and the RSL offers club fare and popping water views. The Audley Dance Hall and Cafe (a 25-minute drive) offers good food and wine in the sun - beware marauding kookaburras - and can also whip up pre-ordered picnic hampers. Warning: if you're staying early in the week Bundeena's few eateries are likely to be closed but the kitchen is so well-equipped you might prefer to BYO feast ingredients or head to the supermarket in town which is blessed with a bottleshop. Some goodies - whether it be a bottle of wine, eggs from the owner's chooks, home-baked biscuits or sourdough - will be left to surprise guests.

THE VERDICT

Come here for peace and quiet, nature, beaches and ample snug spots to sit, read, ponder or to chill with friends and family.

ESSENTIALS

8 Simpson Road, Bundeena. From $690 a night; minimum two nights. Sleeps six. Perfect for two couples or a group of friends. See simpsoncottage.com.au nationalparks.nsw.gov.au

RATING

★★★★½

HIGHLIGHT

Waking up to birdsong and sun sparkling on the water from the front bedroom.

LOWLIGHT

Perhaps a few too many dried-flower arrangements.

The writer was a guest of Simpson Cottage.