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This was published 11 months ago

A hidden harbourside oasis brimming with cool

By Tawar Razaghi
This article is part of our Summer in Sydney series, where Herald staff reveal the best – and worst – of our city in the hotter months.See all 37 stories.

There are two ways to arrive at Woolwich. Catch the ferry from Circular Quay across the sparkling harbour or drive through via Hunters Hill, which gives you a hint of what’s to come as the gateway to this ultra-bougie neighbourhood.

Just 11 kilometres from Sydney CBD, it is a green and cool oasis that feels a world away from the hot concrete jungle in summer.

You get front-row views of the harbour at the local park.

You get front-row views of the harbour at the local park.Credit: Tawar Razaghi

It is one of the lesser-known peninsulas which, by virtue of its geography, is automatically insular just like the other more popular ones.

But it stands out from the rest because of its almost country-like charm that takes you to another place. Think Berry, minus the drive and the hordes of day trippers.

With two rivers (Lane Cove and Parramatta) on either side of it, it never feels too hot during the summer.

When choosing to drive, an obligatory pitstop at Piccolina at the Garibaldi Village Square on your way in is a must. Picking up an iced coffee and aimlessly browsing through the different stores in the heritage-listed houses, built by Italian stonemasons in the 1860s, before walking away with a random knick knack from one of the boutique stores always feels like a treat reserved for long summer days.

There are short walks, cafes and a pub to keep you there all day.

There are short walks, cafes and a pub to keep you there all day.Credit: Tawar Razaghi

Following the main road down from there, driving through almost the middle of the peninsula you can’t help but notice the massive gated estates with tennis courts and all lining either side of Woolwich Road.

This is when the realisation hits you’re not in a regular part of Sydney any more. It’s where old money is locked away in many of these grand homes that have probably been within the same families for generations.

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That’s half the fun of meandering down the Woolwich strait, trying to figure out what everyone does for a living and how heritage protections have turned it into an open-air museum because the majority of Sydneysiders sure can’t afford to live there.

But I keep going back because however you arrive, there is an undeniable beauty about it at the bottom where you are met by the bush, the harbour and the iconic coat hanger as the backdrop.

It is easy to spend the entire day at the park and lose track of time because of the constant cool breeze by the water. It’s the best way to spend a lazy Sunday because if you can’t live there, you might as well daydream about it like everyone else who visits for a walk, a picnic or a fishing trip.

Best café? Piccolina.

Best restaurant? Woolwich Pier Hotel.

Best beach, park or pool? Not many people know but tucked away on the northern side is Woolwich Baths where you can cool off if you feel comfortable enough to swim that far up the river.

First place you take visitors? Clarkes Point Reserve - you can’t beat the view!

Perfect night out in your suburb Staying out at the park until the sun goes down and walking up the hill to the pub for a cold drink.

What would make your suburb better? More housing, so ordinary Sydneysiders could have a chance of getting into the suburb.

Best secret spot in your suburb? Kayaking off Woolwich at the crack of dawn when the water is glassy, and you have those front-row seats to the harbour all to yourself.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/national/nsw/a-hidden-harbourside-oasis-brimming-with-cool-20231221-p5esy7.html