Australia’s 52 top wineries: the 2021 list

What a year. COVID-19, drought, bushfires, smoke taint, punitive Chinese tariffs – what else could go wrong for Australian wine? While our exports to China have dropped to almost zero, it’s had no effect on the quality of wine produced over the past 12 months, nor its price in the domestic market thus far. The small 2020 harvest was therefore not such bad timing, as exporters re-group and refocus their efforts on other markets.

Fire damage and smoke taint have hit the bottom line of many wineries but not harmed the quality of their output. Improved grape testing means few smoke-damaged crops were harvested, and this saved the affected wineries their biggest winemaking cost. Forgoing a year’s income is another matter, and may send some to the wall, but this is yet to be seen.

The good news is that the just-finished 2021 harvest had plentiful crops of high quality in most regions of the country. The cooler regions struggled a bit for ripeness, but that was no great drama. Alternative markets are being pursued for the billions of litres of wine that would have gone to China. The UK market is up more than 20 per cent in both volume and value since December, while the US and Canada are importing strongly. Efforts are also ramping up in Vietnam, Thailand, India, South Korea, Taiwan and Japan.

This is the fourth year that wine website The Real Review has created its “Top Wineries of Australia” list, and the second year we’ve teamed with Good Weekend to publish the top 52 of the more than 400 wineries on our list. How do we do it? Each year, The Real Review publishes about 10,000 wine reviews. Using the most recent reviews, we rank the wineries by aggregating the scores their best wines achieved in our tastings. For 2021, Yarra Yering in the Yarra Valley comes in as our top winery. It’s been outstanding for many years but the 2018 vintage was especially successful, the 2018 Carrodus shiraz excelling with a 99-point rating.

Fifteen different wineries feature this year that weren’t in 2020’s Top 52, but while that means 15 from last year didn’t make it, there’s a cigarette paper between them, as the standard is so high.

New entrants include Rieslingfreak from the Clare Valley, whose name leaves nothing to the imagination. It produces 10 wines, all made from one grape that consumes its maker John Hughes. Or is it the other way round? And Moss Wood, of Margaret River: its cabernet has long been legendary but its other wines scored enough points to push it into this year’s top 52.

Pewsey Vale is not new to riesling drinkers but its stellar Museum Reserve wines, a 2010 and 2015, propelled it into a higher league this year. Keith Tulloch is new on the list this year: a stunning array of classic Hunter wines from the 2017 vintage did the trick. Head Wines is another new entrant. Alex Head lives in Sydney and defies gravity and COVID to make a bevy of beauties in the Barossa.

Langmeil is a Barossa heartland winery with a vertigo-inducing range. It comes in at No. 6. Reds are its forté: if you love big Barossa reds, this is one you should know about. Likewise Seppeltsfield, a legend of the Barossa. Its ancient fortifieds are a foregone conclusion, but it’s doing great things with table wines. And Crawford River comes in at No. 8, a seriously high-quality boutique vineyard in remote western Victoria making some of our finest riesling.

For The Real Review‘s full list of more than 400 top wineries, click here. And for Good Weekend’s top 52 from that list, see below.

Yarra Yering’s 2018 Carrodus shiraz scored the maximum 99 points.

01. YARRA YERING

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: Sublime cabernet sauvignon and Bordeaux-style red blends, shiraz, pinot noir and blends of Portuguese red grapes, from some of the Yarra’s oldest vines.
Huon says: The 2018 Carrodus shiraz scored the maximum 99 points, closely followed by the 2018 Dry Red No. 1 (cabernet-based). The 2018 vintages of Carrodus cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir were also stunningly good. The 2018 Dry Red No. 2 (shiraz-based) was also impressive, but there’s nothing less than excellent at Yarra Yering.

Penfolds in the Barossa Valley.

02. PENFOLDS

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Grange, and a bevy of similarly statuesque red beauties, but also the stunning chardonnays Yattarna and Reserve Bin A.
Huon says: The 2016 Grange is a ripper, but we also swooned over the g4 (a blend of four Grange vintages), RWT Barossa shiraz, Bin 169 Coonawarra cabernet and Bin 707 cabernet – all from 2018, a stellar vintage. The whites are only elbowed out by the great reds … 2018 Yattarna is right up there.

Yalumba Museum.

03. YALUMBA

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Barossa shiraz and grenache, Eden Valley riesling, Coonawarra cabernet. Yalumba is truly an all-rounder. Noted for championing the traditional Aussie cab-shiraz blend (The Signature dates back to 1962), and the less-traditional viognier.
Huon says: The ancient fortifieds are very high scoring but the 2015
The Caley, the company’s newish flagship blend of Coonawarra/Barossa cabernet and shiraz, and 2016 Octavius shiraz both figured among the top wines this year.

Cullen, a biodynamic vineyard within the Margaret River wine region in Western Australia.

04. CULLEN

Location: Margaret River, WA.
Best known for: A biodynamic, carbon-positive winery crafting the beautiful cabernet-based red Diana Madeline and Kevin John chardonnay, as well as Vanya, the pure cabernet sauvignon, named after the winemaker. Occasional bottlings are also produced according to the biodynamic calendar.
Huon says: The 2019 vintage shone, with Kevin John and Diana Madeline both in top form, while a Kevin John Legacy Series Fruit Day chardonnay
had our heads in the clouds.

Wine by Farr, Geelong.

05. WINE BY FARR

Location: Geelong, Vic.
Best known for: Increasingly refined chardonnay and individually styled pinot noir, the latter under several vineyard designations. And arguably Australia’s best viognier.
Huon says: The top wines, 2018 RP pinot noir and 2019 GC chardonnay, both from the Côte Vineyard and initialled after founders Gary and Robyn Farr, are magnificent. We also loved the 2018 vintages of Sangreal and Farrside pinot noirs and shiraz. The 2018 Tout Près pinot was also in the frame.

Langmeil is known for its majestic Barossa and Eden Valley reds.

06. LANGMEIL

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Majestic Barossa and Eden Valley reds, principally shiraz but also grenache and cabernet, made in a vibrant, beautifully polished style.
Huon says: The glittering Langmeil list was headed up by The Freedom 1843 Old Vine shiraz, made from some of the Barossa’s oldest vines, and the Old Vine Garden Fifth Wave grenache, both from the outstanding 2018 vintage. Pure Eden shiraz 2018 also shone, but don’t overlook the raft of less expensive reds including Valley Floor shiraz and Blacksmith cabernet, both $30.

Seppeltsfield in the Barossa Valley.

07. SEPPELTSFIELD

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Mesmerising fortifieds of great age are the star act, but its red wines are increasingly impressive, especially the Barossa Grounds series.
Huon says: The 2018 The Easting and 2018 The Westing shirazes are welcome additions to the portfolio, while the regular $25 Seppeltsfield shiraz punched well above its weight in 2017. The pinnacle was the Paramount Collection Museum Reserve DP 273 Rich Rare apera (oloroso sherry by its former name). Simply great.

Crawford River’s founder John Thomson at his property in Henty.

08. CRAWFORD RIVER

Location: Henty, Vic.
Best known for: Outstanding riesling both sweet (Nektar) and dry, as well as innovative sauvignon blanc semillon blends and stately cabernet sauvignon.
Huon says: The 2019 riesling is stunning, one of its best, while the re-release of the 2010 Serendipitous Selection riesling was also impressive. The 2015 cabernet sauvignon also benefits from extra bottle-age; the 2016 Nektar is gloriously luscious and the 2017 Beta sauvignon blanc semillon also rated highly.

Pooley in the Coal River Valley, Tasmania.

09. POOLEY

Location: Coal River Valley, Tas.
Best known for: Single vineyard selections of pinot noir and syrah, each dedicated to a family member, are now challenging the famous rieslings for pre-eminence.
Huon says: The 2020 Margaret Pooley Tribute riesling topped the list together with the 2018 Jack Denis Pooley pinot noir and 2018 JRD syrah. The 2019 Cooinda Vale and Butcher’s Hill single vineyard chardonnays also rated highly. This family winery is really scoring goals.

Mount Pleasant has some of the Hunter region’s oldest vines.Credit: Chris Elfes

10. MOUNT PLEASANT

Location: Hunter Valley, NSW.
Best known for: Multiple single-block shirazes and semillons from some of the oldest vines in the Hunter, more recently exploring left-field varieties fiano, tempranillo and touriga.
Huon says: Notwithstanding the recent ownership change and a smoked-out 2020 vintage, the wines were superb, with the 2019 shirazes very worthy follow-ups to the stellar 2018s, especially the 1880 Vines Old Hill and 1921 Vines Old Paddock. The 2018 Maurice O’Shea continues the grandeur of this line.

Hardys in McLaren Vale, long loved for its built-to-last reds.

11. HARDYS

Location: McLaren Vale, SA.
Best known for: Magnificent old fortifieds and solid, built-to-last reds are the Hardys’ hallmarks, joined by superb Tasmanian chardonnay and pinot noir under the Eileen Hardy label.
Huon says: The 2016 Eileen Hardy shiraz and 2017 chardonnay are the stand-out table wines, while the Rare 20-year-old muscat is the icing on the cake. The Rare tawny port, aged for 25 years, is close behind it and the 2019 HRB pinot noir is keen value.

Torbreck in the Barossa Valley.

12. TORBRECK

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Statuesque reds, as full-bodied as they come in a region famous for big reds. Whites from viognier, marsanne and roussanne also deserve attention.
Huon says: Quality is on a high at Torbreck, with the 2018 RunRig and The Factor wowing us with freshness and shiraz power. The 2016 The Laird is a rich person’s sport at about $800, but spectacular, while the 2018 The Gask, an Eden Valley shiraz, is delicious.

Adam Wadewitz and Martin Shaw of Tasmania’s Tolpuddle.

13. TOLPUDDLE

Location: Coal River Valley, Tas.
Best known for: Two spellbinding wines: a chardonnay and a pinot noir. In just eight vintages this Shaw + Smith outpost has carved a solid place in the highest ranks of Australian wine.
Huon says: The 2019 chardonnay and 2018 pinot noir are both in top form: the chardonnay is loaded with compelling struck-flint, roast-hazelnut and grapefruit/lemon flavours; the pinot is concentrated and powerfully structured.

Tyrrell’s in the Hunter Valley.

14. TYRRELL’S

Location: Hunter Valley, NSW.
Best known for: Outstanding and age-worthy shiraz, semillon and chardonnay. This 163-year-old family winery owns eight of the Hunter’s handful of centenarian vineyards, its “sacred sites”.
Huon says: Top wines were the 2014 release of the Stevens semillon, the 2019 Old Patch 1867 shiraz, 2018 Vat 47 chardonnay, 2014 Stevens Reserve shiraz and 2018 Vat 9 shiraz.

Clonakilla is now producing single-block shiraz viogniers.

15. CLONAKILLA

Location: Canberra District, NSW.
Best known for: Elegant, spicy shiraz viognier blend and Murrumbateman syrah are the headline acts, but lately some single-block shiraz viogniers have appeared: T&L Vineyard Block 1 2019 and Western Vineyard 2019.
Huon says: Every wine is beautifully crafted and refined, from the 2019 riesling to the 2018 Ceoltoiri, a blend of Rhône Valley varieties, 2018 Ballinderry cabernet blend and 2019 viognier.

Best’s in Victoria’s Great Western wine-growing region.

16. BEST’S

Location: Grampians, Vic.
Best known for: Great shiraz crafted from very old vines, the oldest planted in 1868, which supply the Thomson family and Bin No. 0 shiraz bottlings. Huon says: The 2017 shirazes Thomson Family, Bin No. 0 and Bart’s Block are all sensational, while the 2020 riesling and 2019 Old Vine pinot meunier (also from 1868 vines) prove Best’s is far from a one-trick pony.

Wynns Coonawarra Estate is known for some of the region’s finest cab sav and shiraz.

17. WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE

Location: Coonawarra, SA.
Best known for: Some of the finest cabernet sauvignon and shiraz in Coonawarra, which is produced in the atmospheric 1896 stone winery from the region’s largest acreage of prime vineyards.
Huon says: 2018 Black Label and 2016 John Riddoch and 2018 single vineyard Harold, all pure cabernet sauvignons, impressed this year, as well as the 2016 Michael shiraz and 2018 V&A Lane cabernet shiraz. Great wines all.

Margaret River’s Vasse Felix.

18. VASSE FELIX

Location: Margaret River, WA.
Best known for: Cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay at several levels, all of them exemplary.
Huon says: The flagship cabernet malbec Tom Cullity 2017 is the best yet, while the Heytesbury chardonnay 2019 is a masterpiece of age-worthy refinement and charm. The regular cabernet and chardonnay are also outstanding and amazing value into the bargain – so much cheaper than the icons. So cash in!

The Yarra Valley’s TarraWarra Estate.

19. TARRAWARRA ESTATE

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: The Yarra cornerstones chardonnay and pinot noir, but Tarrawarra adds a lovely Rhône white blend, as well as Italian varietals barbera and nebbiolo.
Huon says: Top scorers this time were the 2017 Reserve chardonnay, 2017 MDB pinot noir, and 2018 Reserve chardonnay and pinot noir with individual vineyard block designations. The rosé, shiraz and merlot delight.

Bindi Wines in the Macedon Ranges, Victoria.Credit: Vic Pugatschew

20. BINDI WINES

Location: Macedon Ranges, Vic.
Best known for: Pinot noir in a fascinating variety of single block bottlings, chardonnay as well.
Huon says: Block 5 and Original Vineyard are the top pinots; Quartz the top chardonnay. All are outstanding in the 2019 vintage. There are several other pinot bottlings, all subtly different. Bindi is like a top Burgundy winery except that its individual “crus” are all located on the one property. Truly astonishing!

De Bortoli in the Yarra Valley.

21. DE BORTOLI

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: Fearlessly innovative styles of Yarra pinot noir, chardonnay, shiraz and other varieties; rosé in many guises is a cheerleader.
Huon says: Individual vineyard block syrah and chardonnay from the 2018 harvest are excellent, as is the pack-leading 2018 Dixons Creek pinot blanc. The 2017 Lusatia pinot noir and chardonnay are outstanding, and the company’s top-scoring wines.

The dining room at Yarra Valley’s Yering Station.

22. YERING STATION

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: Yarra Valley standards pinot noir and chardonnay, as well as a benchmark shiraz viognier and reserve cabernet sauvignon. The Village range delivers keen value.
Huon says: The 2018 Reserve shiraz viognier kept up the lofty standards expected of this stellar wine. It joins the 2017 vintages of Reserve pinot noir, Reserve chardonnay, Reserve cabernet sauvignon and Scarlett pinot Noir in the big league.

Howard Park in Margaret River.

23. HOWARD PARK

Location: Margaret River, WA.
Best known for: A fine array from chardonnay and riesling to cabernet, shiraz, sauvignon blanc and bubbly.
Huon says: The ASW Cabernet shiraz 2017 is a stunning addition. The 2018 Allingham chardonnay and 2017 Abercrombie cabernet sauvignon are both top wines. The 2013 Museum Release riesling is also wonderful, while the 2017 Scotsdale shiraz leads a welter of other super wines, including the excellent Jeté sparkling wines.

Henschke’s Mount Edelstone Vineyard.

24. HENSCHKE

Location: Eden Valley, SA.
Best known for: Hill of Grace, one of Australia’s most famous wines, and an extraordinary suite of superb wines from Eden Valley riesling and shiraz to Barossa Valley GSM and Adelaide Hills chardonnay, pinot noir, sparkling wine, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc.
Huon says: 2016 Hill Of Grace, Hill of Roses and Mount Edelstone shirazes are right up to speed, while 2018 Tappa Pass shiraz is a great wine from a grower’s vineyard. The 2017 Noble gewürztraminer is a sublime sweetie. Champions of sustainable agriculture.

South Australia’s Hentley Farm is known for its massive reds.

25. HENTLEY FARM

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Massive reds from the western Barossa with names like The Beauty and The Beast.
Huon says: The 2018 vintage again is the star with flagship single-block shiraz Clos Otto, The Beast, Von Kasper cabernet sauvignon and from 2017, The Creation shiraz. Single-block expressions from the estate vines are the focus. The 2020 Eden Valley riesling also scored highly, while grenache and viognier are reliably tasty. Best value is the Stray Mongrel grenache shiraz zinfandel ($29.50).

The dining room looking out over the vines at Paringa Estate.

26. PARINGA ESTATE

Location: Mornington Peninsula, Vic.
Best known for: Outstanding pinot noir and chardonnay, including some of the peninsula’s most powerfully structured, long-lasting pinot.
Huon says: Elegant, spicy shiraz and increasingly lovely chardonnay all impressed. The 2018 vintages of top-level The Paringa range are thrilling: chardonnay, pinot noir and shiraz. Blended entry-level “The Peninsula” pinot and chardonnay are great value at $29 each.

Shaun and Liz Silkman at their winery in the Hunter Valley.

27. SILKMAN

Location: Hunter Valley, NSW.
Best known for: Semillon, chardonnay and shiraz in traditional Hunter styles.
Huon says: The 2017 Reserve shiraz charmed our tasters while the 2017 Silk chardonnay lifted the roof. The 2017 Reserve shiraz pinot noir is stellar: one of the wines that kick-started the Australia-wide renewal of fascination with this Maurice O’Shea-inspired blend. The 2018 semillon and 2017 chardonnay also impressed.

Oakridge in the Yarra Valley.Credit: Rick Liston

28. OAKRIDGE

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: Ultra-refined chardonnays and super-perfumed reds from pinot noir, shiraz and cabernet sauvignon – the single vineyard chardonnays being of special value.
Huon says: The 2019 vintages of Henk Vineyard chardonnay and 864 Henk pinot noir charmed us most, while the 864 Henk chardonnay 2018, closely followed by 864 Close Planted Block syrah 2019 and 864 Funder & Diamond chardonnay 2019, led a breathtaking array of lustrous wines. To vary the diet, the 2019 Willowlake sauvignon blanc also delighted.

Peter Lehmann in the Barossa Valley.

29. PETER LEHMANN

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Statuesque but never over-the-top Barossa reds, led by Stonewell and Eight Songs shirazes; also the Barossa’s best semillon, under the Margaret brand.
Huon says: Masterson shiraz 2015 and Black Queen Sparkling shiraz 2015 led the charge for PL this year, the Black Queen about as good as it gets for sparkling red. Several other shirazes scored highly, including 2018 VSV Valley View Road, 2018 VSV Hearnden and Stonewell 2016.

The Barossa Valley’s Gibson.Credit: Dragan Fine Art Photography

30. GIBSON

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Tense, age-worthy Eden Valley riesling and an array of fine Barossa and Eden reds, including Reserve label shiraz and merlot. Australian Old Vine Collection shirazes from Barossa and Eden provide fascinating contrast.
Huon says: The Dirtman shiraz (2019 is current) always gives value. Rob Gibson is the “dirtman”, aka viticulturist. In addition to the 2020 and 2019 rieslings, the 2015 Bin 65 Special Release shiraz and 2016 Australian Old Vine Collection Barossa shiraz rang our bells.

Château Tanunda’s iconic building in the Barossa.

31. CHÂTEAU TANUNDA

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: An iconic building, beautifully restored, is the home of a mesmerising array of old-vine reds, many labels indicating 50-, 100- and 150-year-old vines. Shiraz, grenache, cabernet and multifarious blends.
Huon says: The Everest shiraz 2017 and 1858 Vines Field Blend 2016 led the field, while the 2018 bottlings of Ebenezer and Eden Valley are the best of the Terroirs of the Barossa shirazes.

Poonawatta in the Eden Valley, South Australia.

32. POONAWATTA

Location: Eden Valley, SA.
Best known for: Riesling and shiraz are the twin strengths of the Eden Valley, and Poonawatta’s secret weapon is a shiraz vineyard planted in 1880.
Huon says: The 2018 vintage of 1880 Vines shiraz shared top honours with The Centenarian 2010 Single Barrel Reserve shiraz, while the 2020 “The Eden” riesling and 2018 “The Eden Reserve” riesling also shone brightly.

Yeringberg in the Yarra Valley.

33. YERINGBERG

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: Deliciously elegant, fruit-driven chardonnay, pinot noir and, especially, the blend of Bordeaux red varieties labelled Yeringberg.
Huon says: The 2017 Yeringberg cabernet sauvignon is magnificent but scarce. The 2018 Yeringberg blend is hot on its heels while the 2018 vintages of pinot noir and chardonnay also rated highly. Seamless wines of great purity.

John Duval, a former Penfolds chief winemaker, is building a superb array of wines.

34. JOHN DUVAL WINES

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: The former Penfolds chief winemaker is building a superb array of wines, led by bottlings of shiraz; old-vine mataro and grenache also thrill.
Huon says: The most recent addition is the stunning Integro cabernet shiraz 2017 ($220). The affordable $30 Concilio brand is another welcome addition, the 2018 grenache shiraz being our pick. Annexus labels grenache 2019 and mataro 2018 are benchmark examples of these grapes.

Lake’s Folly produces some of the Hunter Valley’s finest chardonnays.Credit: Marco Del Grande

35. LAKE’S FOLLY

Location: Hunter Valley, NSW.
Best known for: Complex chardonnays that are among the region’s finest, and the quixotic cabernet blend instigated by Max Lake in 1963.
Huon says: A trio of 2019 wines showed the Folly is very much on song: the Hill Block chardonnay leading the also excellent regular bottling of chardonnay, while the “cabernets” – a mélange of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, shiraz and petit verdot – is an elegant, quietly powerful wine that is sure to reward extended cellaring.

Woodlands in Margaret River.

36. WOODLANDS

Location: Margaret River, WA.
Best known for: Cabernet sauvignon and blends bottled under several labels, also chardonnay led by the majestic Chloe Reserve, all from grapes grown in the Wilyabrup sub-region.
Huon says: Woodlands was established by David and Heather Watson in 1973, and Chloes evidently figure brightly in the family. The 2017 Chloe Anne cabernet sauvignon and 2018 Chloe Reserve chardonnay led the pack this year, while the 2017 Margaret cabernet sauvignon, which is named after another family member, also impressed.

Handpicked, on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula.Credit: Brett Stevens

37. HANDPICKED

Location: Mornington Peninsula, Vic.
Best known for: Being a small wine business, Handpicked is impressively eclectic, selling a wide range of wines from all over Australia and the world.
Huon says: The relatively affordable 2017 Collection Mornington chardonnay and 2018 Collection Barossa grenache topped an interest-packed list, with 2019 Collection Tasmanian chardonnay and 2018 Capella Vineyard pinot noir also hitting gold-ribbon scores. Meanwhile, a 2015 Brindle Vineyard merlot from Margaret River was the surprise packet.

Pierro in Margaret River.

38. PIERRO

Location: Margaret River, WA.
Best known for: Michael Peterkin’s chardonnays are simply great, under both the estate and rare Vintage Reserve labels. One of the region’s original semillon sauvignon blanc blends, Pierro’s LTC is still a standard bearer, while Reserve cabernet merlot is an exercise in elegance. The 2017 was Pierro’s top scorer.
Huon says: The 2020 LTC is as good as it gets, and the 2019 chardonnay and 2017 Vintage Reserve chardonnay both captured our hearts and palates.

Alex Head makes modern Barossa reds with lifted spicy aromatics at Head Wines.

39. HEAD WINES

Location: Barossa Valley, SA.
Best known for: Alex Head makes modern Barossa reds with lifted spicy aromatics and elegance, with a greater emphasis on the cooler Eden Valley.
Huon says: The 2017 Wilton Hill shiraz is top scorer, a lovely wine from the Mattschoss Eden Valley vineyard, while the Redhead Eden Valley shiraz 2017 and 2018 Old Vine shiraz also popped their heads up. Delightful wines that reveal a new-found refinement.

Giaconda in Beechworth, Victoria.

40. GIACONDA

Location: Beechworth, Vic.
Best known for: Arguably Australia’s most-prized chardonnay cast in an unapologetically full-throttle, super-complex style. This wine steals the limelight but the two shirazes and lately pinot noir are also outstanding.
Huon says: The 2018 Estate chardonnay top scored but the 2018 Estate shiraz and 2018 Warner Vineyard shiraz were hot on its hammer. The 2018 Estate pinot noir is a gold-ribbon wine, the best yet from this maker.

Giant Steps in the Yarra Valley.

41. GIANT STEPS

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: Both chardonnay and pinot noir under multiple vineyard labels show beautiful touch, while shiraz and cabernet-based blend, Harry’s Monster, are also impressive.
Huon says: The 2019 Applejack chardonnay (Yarra) and 2018 Nocton pinot noir (Tasmania) shared top billing with the 2018 syrah and 2018 Harry’s Monster, while 2019 Sexton chardonnay also made the gold-ribbon cut. It’s under new ownership while Steve Flamsteed remains chief winemaker.

Keith Tulloch Wine in the Hunter Valley.

42. KEITH TULLOCH WINE

Location: Hunter Valley, NSW.
Best known for: Traditional Hunter wines produced from regional front-rowers semillon, chardonnay and shiraz that show elegance and balance.
Huon says: A raft of 2017 wines delighted us: the semillons Field of Mars Block 2A and Field of Mars Block 3B, Field of Mars Block 6 chardonnay, and The Doctor shiraz. Museum Release semillon 2013 showed how beautifully these wines mature.

Yangarra in McLaren Vale.

43. YANGARRA ESTATE

Location: McLaren Vale, SA.
Best known for: Peter Fraser crafts leading examples of high-altitude grenache, shiraz and other Rhône varieties, especially roussanne and mourvèdre.
Huon says: The top wines were the 2018 High Sands grenache, a beacon for profound, age-worthy grenache, and its opposite number in shiraz, the 2018 Ironheart, with equal top scoring. The new excitement wine is the 2019 Clarendon grenache, while the 2019 Estate shiraz ($35) is the bargain wine. We also loved the 2019 Ovitelli grenache, which was fermented in ceramic eggs.

Pepper Tree in the Hunter Valley.Credit: Chris Elfes

44. PEPPER TREE

Location: Hunter Valley, NSW.
Best known for: An impressive array of Hunter, Orange, Wrattonbully and Coonawarra wines, all crafted in the Hunter Valley winery.
Huon says: The 2019 Coquun Hunter shiraz – the winery’s flagship red – Stone Mountain Orange riesling, and Red Hill Hunter shiraz lead the pack for Pepper Tree this year. Picking favourites is difficult as there is such a choice, but Hunter shiraz and semillon are hard to beat for consistent quality.

Levantine Hill in the Yarra Valley.

45. LEVANTINE HILL

Location: Yarra Valley, Vic.
Best known for: An ambitious winery with prices to match, fielding innovative styles that reflect winemaker Paul Bridgeman’s personal tastes.
Huon says: The top-end wines are expensive but also impressive, with the 2016 Samantha’s Paddock cabernet blend ($200), 2017 Katherine’s Paddock chardonnay ($125), 2016 Melissa’s Paddock syrah ($200) and 2016 Colleen’s Paddock pinot noir ($200) leading, and the second-rank 2017 syrah ($80) also rating very highly.

Riesling rules at Frankland Estate, Great Southern, Western Australia.

46. FRANKLAND ESTATE

Location: Great Southern, WA.
Best known for: Riesling under six different labels, topped by Isolation Ridge Vineyard and off-dry SmithCullam, but recently the shirazes and cabernet blend Olmo’s Reward are just as impressive.
Huon says: Olmo’s Reward has hit new heights in recent vintages. The 2017 is our top wine this year, together with the 2019 SmithCullam riesling and 2018 SmithCullam syrah. The aptly-named 2016 Isolation Ridge shiraz and 2019 Isolation Ridge riesling are gold-ribbon wines as well.

Stonier on Victoria’s Mornington Peninsula.

47. STONIER

Location: Mornington Peninsula, Vic.
Best known for: Superfine chardonnay and pinot noir under a range of individual vineyard labels, the number varying from year to year depending on the success of the season.
Huon says: In the 2019 vintage, the KBS Vineyard chardonnay and pinot noir – which use the initials of founder Brian Stonier – both took top honours. The 2019 Reserve bottlings of chardonnay and pinot noir also took gold ribbons (95 points). The pinots are wines of finesse, not dark or weighty.

John Hughes at Clare Valley’s Rieslingfreak.

48. RIESLINGFREAK

Location: Clare Valley, SA.
Best known for: Owner/winemaker John Hughes only makes riesling, hence the name, and there were 10 labels at last count.
Huon says: Dry, off-dry and sweet, fortified and sparkling, single vineyard Polish Hill River, wood-matured and bottle-aged, and an Eden Valley wine (all the others are Clare), Hughes does them all. The 2015 No 6 Aged riesling top scored, two of the 2020s scored gold ribbons and the other 2020s were close behind. If you love riesling, Hughes is your guy.

Pewsey Vale specialises in making riesling – and lots of it.

49. PEWSEY VALE

Location: Eden Valley, SA.
Best known for: Riesling, and lots of it. Winemaker Louisa Rose makes dry, off-dry (Prima), an original 1961 vines bottling, and two The Contours wines: one sold at five years of age, the other at 10 years.
Huon says: The 2010 The Contours 10 Years Cellar Aged was sublimely toasty and limy, the 2015 The Contours Museum Reserve just as good but younger. The 2019 Prima, with 23 grams of residual sugar, also rated well and the regular 2020 Pewsey Vale was, as usual, good value.

Mark Walpole at Fighting Gully Road in Beechworth, Victoria.

50. FIGHTING GULLY ROAD

Location: Beechworth, Vic.
Best known for: A viticulturist first and foremost, Mark Walpole draws on his and his family’s vineyards in the Ovens Valley as well as Beechworth for Italian varietals, especially sangiovese and aglianico, the southern French white grape manseng, tempranillo and more classic Beechworth chardonnay and shiraz.
Huon says: The 2017 Block 2 sangiovese led the line-up, followed by the 2019 and 2018 chardonnays, 2017 La Longa sangiovese and 2019 rosé blended from sangiovese and aglianico. Food wines with individual personality.

Duke’s Vineyard in Western Australia’s Great Southern.

51. DUKE’S VINEYARD

Location: Great Southern, WA.
Best known for: Riesling is the star turn at Duke and Hilde Ranson’s Porongurup vineyard, contract-made by Rob Diletti of Castle Rock Estate, but cabernet and shiraz reds are increasingly impressive.
Huon says: Magpie Hill Reserve is the top label for riesling, cabernet and shiraz: the top-rating wine was the 2019 riesling, closely followed by the 2018 shiraz and 2018 cabernet sauvignon, all under the Magpie Hill Reserve label.

Moss Wood in Western Ausralia’s Margaret River.

52. MOSS WOOD

Location: Margaret River, WA.
Best known for: Cabernet sauvignon, dry-grown on the estate vineyard in Wilyabrup, the wine that drew early attention to Margaret River. Chardonnay also hits the heights in a generous style. Ribbon Vale Vineyard wines are increasingly impressive.
Huon says: The 2018 cabernet sauvignon and 2019 chardonnay level-pegged for top honours, followed by the great value 2019 Amy’s cabernet blend. The 2019 Ribbon Vale Elsa sauvignon blanc is an exciting new addition.

Taste the top wineries: Special offer for Good Weekend readers

The Real Review is holding tasting events with more than 30 of this year’s Top Wineries.

Melbourne: July 10 at Longrain and Longsong.

Sydney: July 17 at the Campbell’s Stores and Harbourfront Seafood Restaurant.

Each event will feature three tasting sessions, a masterclass and a lunch at which principal wine writer Huon Hooke will be in conversation with Good Food editor Ardyn Bernoth (Melbourne) and Good Weekend editor Katrina Strickland (Sydney).

Good Weekend readers who buy a $69 general admission ticket will receive a free year’s subscription to The Real Review. 

To read more from Good Weekend magazine, visit our page at The Sydney Morning Herald, The Age and Brisbane Times.

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