Packing light? Easier said than done when heading for a cold climate

The coldest place I ever lived was New York. In winter, those Arctic blasts would cut through me like a knife, even if I was wearing several layers of wool and down.

Not being a skier, I’ve rarely had to dig out my extreme winter clothes here in Australia. But I’m in my cupboards right now trying to locate my long underwear and thickest pants for summer in Europe.

Packing light is not so easy when you’re heading for a cold climate.Credit: iStock

Summer? Yes, because I’m inadvertently on trend for this year. I’m about to go on a cruise to Greenland.

Packing is a real challenge for this trip. I’ve never travelled to polar regions and while those New York winters were intense (without earmuffs my earlobes would get so crisp, they were in danger of breaking off), I find it difficult to imagine exactly how cold it will get.

It’s always the same with packing – I tend to underplay how warm or hot it might be. When it’s hot, and I’m packing for cold, my imagination fails me. It’s a bit cool in Sydney now but there are no chunks of ice floating in Sydney Harbour.

I’m cruising with HX Expeditions on its newest ship, the MS Fridtjof Nansen, and they’ve been great in sending passengers detailed lists of what to bring. There’s also a dedicated travel portal I can download on my phone which includes practical advice such as what currency I’ll need (Danish krone) and what electrical plug will work (type C).

Luckily the dress code is relaxed and informal, even for dinner, as it’s an expedition ship. I won’t have to bring cocktail dresses and my jewellery, as I always feel I should on cruise lines such as Regent Seven Seas, where female passengers tend to get gussied-up in their finest.

The temperature in Greenland will range from 3°C to 9°C, but the sun can be strong and feel warmer.Credit: Jason Charles Hill, Visit Greenland

Much of the list is sensible and expected. Comfortable flat shoes with a good grip, as it can be slippery on deck. Swimwear for the hot tub and sauna. (I’ll be in that sauna for sure). Gym clothes for the fitness facilities. (Well, maybe.)

The temperature will range from 3°C to 9°C, but the sun can be strong and feel warmer, they advise. We’re going far north, but the southern region might be warmer. And I’m going to have a day in Copenhagen and one in Reykjavik as well, where the temperature should be mild, so I need to take that into account.

Some clothing items are straightforward. Woollen layers and warm thermal underwear and tops. Woollen or fleece jumpers. Warm pants. Waterproof gloves. Warm hat or fleece tube. Scarf. Warm jacket. Hiking boots. Tick, tick, tick.

The climate on board is bound to be cosy, so I’ll need lighter things while I’m lounging in the observation deck or hanging out with the scientists in the labs.

This is looking like a lot of clothing.

Where I’m starting to come undone (or under-packed) are the location-specific items. Waterproof trousers are mandatory for expeditions in Greenland, as all landings are wet landings. The cruise line will provide the rubber muck boots and a jacket.

Will cheap plastic pants that go over my regular pants do? Or does it have it to be a fancier pair, like ski pants, some of which cost upwards of $200? I’m flipping through both The North Face catalogue and the Target website as I write.

There’s a recommendation that I bring ice grips for my shoes and a small waterproof bag for landings. I hadn’t thought of those. High factor sunblock. Insect repellent and sting-relief ointment. A hat with a mosquito net.

The last three items surprise me. But just last week, I met a journalist who had returned recently from Greenland.

He told the story of flying into one of the northern communities in a small plane. The pilot kept the doors closed upon landing. Be warned, you’re about to meet some of Greenland’s unique wildlife, the pilot announced.

Polar bears, everyone thought.

The doors opened. A dense cloud of giant mosquitoes swarmed in. Before anyone could escape, the interior windows and walls of the plane were covered in mosquito blood from everyone frantically swatting them.

By all accounts, they are horrifying for a few weeks of the summer. And bigger than any mozzie you’ve ever seen before.

So, I am off to buy plastic pants, a hat with a net, some Stingose and DEET-free repellent (for the environment).

Not quite the Scandi chic look I was aiming for.