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Eat, play, love: 15 national treasures better than paintings or palaces

By Brian Johnston

The different “colles” of the city raise their human towers in the Plaza Sant Jaume during La Merce in Barcelona.

The different “colles” of the city raise their human towers in the Plaza Sant Jaume during La Merce in Barcelona.Credit: Getty Images

Artworks and palaces are all very well, but such static sights are robbed of social and cultural life and are leached of the ideas and aspirations that produced them in the first place. Not so with living traditions.

A night of flamenco in Spain is arguably more thrilling than any Goya painting and tells you as much about Spanish culture.

An afternoon attending silat games in Malaysia – traditional sports that include top-spinning and martial arts – surely has to be a greater treat than the static view from the Petronas twin towers.

“Intangible cultural heritage”, as it is known, is part of what defines a sense of self for a civilisation, nation or ethnic group.

Lau Pa Sat hawker markets… Budget community dining at hawker centres are crucial to social interaction in Singapore.

Lau Pa Sat hawker markets… Budget community dining at hawker centres are crucial to social interaction in Singapore.Credit: Getty Images

It says something about soul and identity. UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation) provides a good reference point for examples, since it keeps a list of protected intangible heritage with the aim of encouraging cultural diversity and international respect.

Only a fraction of living heritage is covered. Among inclusions are performing arts, social practices, rituals, festivals, craft skills and traditional knowledge of nature and the universe.

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Some require local language ability to appreciate, others are esoteric: few travellers will be into Mongolian knucklebone shooting or Nordic clinker boat building.

The great majority, however, allow for involvement, whether as a participant or spectator. The range is enormous, but food culture, dance, song and sport feature prominently.

From UNESCO’s list of 700 or so traditions and cultural practices across 140 countries, here are 15 great examples of intangible treasures to fire your traveller’s imagination.

The treasure

The baguette, France

Baguette excellence… look out for bakers awarded the prestigious “Meilleur Ouvrier de France”.

Baguette excellence… look out for bakers awarded the prestigious “Meilleur Ouvrier de France”.Credit: Getty Images

The lowdown
France’s most popular bread variety has only four ingredients (water, flour, salt, yeast) but a time-tested technique and frequent small-batch baking turn it into a marvel, characterised by a crisp crust, chewy interior and soft, light texture.

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Experience it
Every bakery and supermarket in France sells baguettes – morning and late afternoon are the best times to buy – and few restaurant tables are without a basket of crusty slices.

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It’s hard to get bad baguette, but look for bakers awarded the prestigious “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” (best craftsperson) accolade, such as Christian Vabert at Au Petit Versailles du Marais in Paris, and you’re in for a top-notch treat. Xavier Netry at Boulangerie Utopie was awarded the Grand Prix de la Baguette for the capital’s best baguette in 2024. Sri Lankan baker Tharshan Selvarajah from Au Levain des Pyrénées in an obscure Paris district caused ripples by winning in 2023.
See boulangerieutopie.com

One more thing
You’ll get the best bread from anywhere called a boulangerie, since strict laws say boulangeries must serve bread made and baked daily on the premises. Anyone who flouts the rules can face a two-year prison sentence. See france.fr

The treasure

Rumba dancing, Cuba

Just beat it … rumba dancers in Havana Cuba.

Just beat it … rumba dancers in Havana Cuba. Credit: Getty Images

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The lowdown
Rumba music and dance is based largely on African culture, but with Antillean and flamenco influences. It began in marginalised urban districts, was popularised in rural communities, but is now a widespread form of social and artistic expression.

Experience it
Rumba erupts all over Cuba but especially in Havana and Matanzas where it originated. April hosts the weeklong Ritmo Cuba international dance festival in Havana. Although it has become a tourist trap, don’t miss the Sunday afternoon rumba shows in Callejon de Hamel, a Havana alleyway plastered in street art, and unofficial centre of the Afro-Cuban community. Be early for pole position (the party starts at noon) or you’ll find the alley already jammed. Other great venues are El Palenque, Palacio de la Rumba Disco and El Jelengue de Areito; the latter is still frequented mostly by locals. You can take rumba lessons in schools such as Aliore, Salsabor a Cuba and La Casona del Son. See aliore.org; salsaboracuba.com; laconsonadelson.com

One more thing
Rumba refers to various local styles of party music and dance accompanied by polyrhythmic drumming. It bears little resemblance to the international ballroom dancing version. See cubatravel.cu

The treasure

Catalonian human towers, Spain

Human towers of Tarragona.

Human towers of Tarragona.Credit: Getty Images

The lowdown
This 200-year-old Catalonian festive tradition, which has since spread to Valencia and the Balearic Islands, sees men, women and (at the summit) children compete to assemble the tallest tower, or castell, by standing on each other’s shoulders – and disassemble it afterwards. Coloured costumes identify rival teams.

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Experience it
The Concurs de Castells in Tarragona on alternative years in early October (the next in 2026) is the ultimate human tower competition, but Tarragona has many demonstrations in public plazas and its bullring, especially over summer, although the castell season runs June to November. The nearby town of Valls, where castells first appeared, has a Casteller Museum that explores its heritage. Several Barcelona festivals such as La Merce (September) and Santa Eulalia (February) also showcase castells. You can watch practice sessions, and if you speak Spanish attend workshops, at Castellers de Barcelona. It’s also not unusual for teams to seek help from members of the crowd when trying to create bases for particularly large towers. See eng.concursdecastells.cat; museucasteller.cat; castellersdebarcelona.cat

One more thing
Six or seven tiers are the norm for a castell. The largest castells created have 10 tiers with at least four people at each level, a feat first achieved in 2015. The number of castellers or competitors also counts in competition. See spain.info; tarragonaturisme.cat

The treasure

Sauna culture, Finland

Sweat dreams … having a sauna is a way of life in Finland.

Sweat dreams … having a sauna is a way of life in Finland.Credit: Visit Finland

The lowdown
The sauna is integral to Finnish life – there are more than 3 million of them in a nation of 5.6 million people – and saunas appear in homes, workplaces and universities, while public saunas cater to the deprived. A visit to the sauna is partly about cleansing but considered meditative too.

Experience it
Tampere is touted as the sauna capital of the world, with 70 public saunas mostly a leap away from a lake. Abandon your inhibitions, since Finns go naked in the sauna, except in some mixed-sex sauna situations. Bring a towel to sit on, however, to avoid barbecued buttocks.

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In Helsinki, harbour-side Loyly (three saunas and a swimming pool), Allas Sea Pool and design-chic Kulttuurisauna are must-tries. Kotiharju is a classic neighbourhood sauna, and the last public sauna in the capital heated by wood fire. See allasseapool.fi; kulttuurisauna.fi; kotiharju.fi

One more thing
Fifteen minutes is the longest you should stay at a time. You’re then expected to leap into the sea, roll in the snow or, in urban settings, use the ice room or cold showers before repeating. Slapping yourself with birch twigs also gets the circulation going. See visitfinland.com; visittampere.fi

The treasure

Float festivals, Japan

A one-tonne float at the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival.

A one-tonne float at the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival.Credit: Getty Images

The lowdown
Parades of floats accompanied by musicians are a key element to many Japanese religious festivals that ask the Shinto gods for peace or protection from natural disaster. Float-making is a community endeavour, and float design showcases local culture. Floats are usually pulled by teams in white uniforms.

Experience it
Many cities and towns have float festivals, 33 of which are inscribed on UNESCO’s intangible heritage list. Among the most splendid are those at the spring and autumn Takayama Festival where floats are decorated with mechanical puppets, the famous summertime Gion Matsuri in Kyoto which features 20-metre-high floats, and Nagahama Hikiyama Festival in Shiga. Other notable float festivals take place in Himeji, Niihama, Kanuma and Noshiro, where floats are spectacularly illuminated at night like giant lanterns. See hida.jp; kyoto.travel; nagahama-hikiyama.or.jp

One more thing
You can participate in some float festivals such as the Aomori Nebuta Festival by renting or buying a costume and joining any of the dance troupes, in which visitors are welcome. Chichibu Night Festival will allow you to join the team that pulls a float, though you’ll have to book in advance. See nebuta.jp; chichibu-matsuri.jp; japan.travel

The treasure

Fado singing, Portugal

Portugal’s quintessential sound… soulful fado singing.

Portugal’s quintessential sound… soulful fado singing.Credit: iStock

The lowdown
Soulful fado singing, typically performed by a solo singer and accompanied by a guitar or cittern, is Portugal’s quintessential sound. It relates sad stories of the oppressed poor, lost and broken-hearted, and combines rural, immigrant and Afro-Brazilian traditions.

Experience it
You can hear professional fado singers at theatre venues, and at cafe-like fado houses such as Taverna del Rey, Mesa del Frades (which has an atmospheric setting inside a former chapel) and Cafe Luso. In fado houses you’re expected to have dinner, usually a set menu with minimal choices. The Fado Museum is probably for aficionados but does allow a listen to fado recordings and has guitar-making workshops. Although fado originated in Lisbon, Porto is a big fado centre, with top venues including Casa da Mariquinhas and Ideal Clube de Fado. Caves Fonseca hosts fado concerts following a tasting of port wine amid cellar-door barrels. See tavernadelray.pt; mesadelfrades.pt; cafeluso.pt; museudofado.pt; casadamariquinhas.pt; fado.club; fonseca.pt

One more thing
University town Coimbra is Portugal’s third fado centre, with singers (exclusively men) and musicians wearing academic costume and performing at night in street locations such as outside Old Cathedral and Santa Cruz Monastery. See visitportugal.com; centerofportugal.com

The treasure

Gamelan orchestra, Indonesia

Gamelan orchestra performing during the dance drama Wayang Wong, Bali.

Gamelan orchestra performing during the dance drama Wayang Wong, Bali. Credit: Alamy

The lowdown
This traditional Indonesian percussion ensemble features ornate metal instruments such as xylophones, cymbals, gongs and drums, accompanied by flutes and stringed instruments. The music is rhythmic and repetitive and played at festivals, religious rituals and significant events.

Experience it
Bali is a significant centre for gamelan. Balinese gamelan is louder and more frenzied than the calm Javanese style, best enjoyed in Yogyakarta. Evocative places to take in a gamelan performance are Ubud Palace and Ubud Water Palace (or Pura Saraswati Temple), but many local temples host frequent performances, so ask around. Bale Banjar Ubud Kelod features an all-female gamelan and dance group.

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You can take an introductory one-hour gamelan workshop at Museum Puri Lukisan and Pondok Pekak Library that allows you to attempt xylophone playing, or more comprehensive lessons at Mekar Bhuwana Centre, which will hire you a gamelan troupe for that special occasion. See purilukisanmuseum.com; pondokpekak.com; balimusicanddance.com

One more thing
Gamelan orchestras accompany another UNESCO-listed Indonesian performance art, wayang or shadow puppetry, which tells the stories of mythological figures. You can take in a show at Bali Culture Workshop in Ubud, which also has workshops in puppet making. See balicultureworkshop.com; indonesia.travel

The treasure

Coffee culture, Turkey

Turkish tea in Beyazit, Istanbul.

Turkish tea in Beyazit, Istanbul.Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

The lowdown
Turkish coffee is served in small cups and, as the saying goes, is black as hell, strong as death and sweet as love. It’s the preparation, brewing techniques, communal enjoyment and social and ceremonial role of coffee put this on UNESCO’s list.

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Experience it
Coffee houses are everywhere in Turkey, and a coffee and honey-soaked pastry are a great booster when sightseeing energy flags. Coffee is usually enjoyed after a meal or mid-afternoon and is unusual for breakfast. Ask for sugar in advance, since it’s brewed with the coffee; forget milk. Leave the dregs of finely-ground coffee, or you’ll be coughing and spluttering. Fabled Istanbul coffeehouse Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi near the Egyptian Bazaar is 150 years old. Other worthy venues include Sark Kahvesi in the Grand Bazaar and Corlulu Ali Pasa Medresesi in popular Beyazit district. See mehmetefendi.com;

One more thing
A good Turkish coffee should have a nice head of foam, which helps keep the coffee warm. The dregs are traditionally used for fortune-telling. You’ll find fortune-tellers wandering some coffeehouses, but these days smart-phone apps interpret the dregs too. See goturkiye.com

The treasure

Mariachi music, Mexico

Mariachis perform during Day of the Dead celebrations in Oaxaca, Mexico.

Mariachis perform during Day of the Dead celebrations in Oaxaca, Mexico. Credit: Getty Images

The lowdown
Mariachi originated in western Mexico in the 18th century or earlier. It blends local influences with European musical styles such as polkas, fandangos and waltzes, and is typically played by street bands whose members wear gaudy cowboy-like costumes and play violins, guitars and trumpets.

Experience it
It won’t be long before you encounter mariachi bands: they stroll plazas, are sometimes hired by restaurants, and feature prominently at festivals. In Mexico City, head to Plaza Garibaldi in the evenings to hear mariachi bands in full swing, as they play for tips and compete for the lucrative wedding business; hundreds of mariachi players circulate on busy weekends. Jorongo Bar at Sheraton Mexico City Maria Isabel Hotel, Villa Maria and Porfirio’s are upmarket venues with lively mariachi entertainment. In Xochimilco in the city’s south, it’s fun to rent a boat, take a tour of the Aztec-era canals, and pay for a tune from the mariachi bands floating past. See marriott.com; porfirios.com.mx

One more thing
Mariachi bands are often lampooned overseas but are taken seriously – and competitively – in Mexico. Lyrics often talk of love, nature, religion, native land and nationhood: the soul of Mexico beneath the jaunty tunes. See visitmexico.com

The treasure

Hawker culture, Singapore

Hawker businesses in Singapore’s buzzing Chinatown Food Street.

Hawker businesses in Singapore’s buzzing Chinatown Food Street.Credit: Alamy Stock Photo

The lowdown
Budget community dining and culinary practices at hawker centres are crucial to social interaction in Singapore, says UNESCO. The shared indoor or outdoor dining areas bring together dozens of pocket-sized food stalls that often specialise in a particular dish, ingredient or ethnic cuisine.

Experience it
Nothing wrong with the more touristy hawker centres such as Clarke Quay, Newtown Circus, Lau Pa Sat and Smith Street, but you’ll get a more authentic neighbourhood experience at places such as Pasir Ris, Yishun and Bukit Batok. Adam Road Food Centre specialised in Malay dishes, Tekka Centre in Indian curries and rojak, a salad in sweet sauce, sprinkled with crushed peanuts. Try the city’s famous chilli crab at East Coast Seafood Centre, which has views over the ocean. The just-renovated Old Airport Road Food Centre has several Michelin-recommended stalls. See laupasat.sg; yishunparkhc.sg; jumboseafood.com.sg;

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One more thing
Bring a packet of tissues or newspaper with you: the traditional way to reserve a table before you order your food. Food might be delivered (you’ll have a table number) or may be self-service. You aren’t expected to clear your table of dishes afterwards. See visitsingapore.com

To view the full list of UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage inscriptions organisation’s website at ich.unesco.org 

Five more intangible treasures

Kimchi, South Korea
The seasonal making and year-round sharing of kimchi, Korea’s ubiquitous pickled and often spicy side-dish vegetables, is known as kimjang. Its preparation in autumn is an important family and community event. You’ll have abundant restaurant opportunities to try dozens of varieties, but can also visit Seoul Kimchi Academy or Museum Kimchikan and learn to make it. See visitkorea.or.kr

Yoga, India
The philosophy behind yoga has influenced everything from education to health practices and the arts in India. It aims at wellbeing through unifying mind and body and building self-realisation. The best centres in India for learning and practising yoga are southern state Kerala, beach retreat Goa, and Rishikesh by the Ganges River in the Himalayan foothills. See incredibleindia.gov.in

Beer culture, Belgium
Belgium has more than 200 breweries – some run by Cistercian monks – that produce 1500 types of world-class beer. Check out what’s on tap but explore speciality beers only sold in bottles too. You can visit the Stella Artois factory in Leuven, Belgium’s beer capital, and Belgian Beer World in Brussels for beer history and tastings. See visitflanders.com

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Dragon boat Festival, China
This lunar festival of ethnic groups along the lower Yangtze River is celebrated in late May or early June to commemorate historical or mythical figures, especially third-century BC poet Qu Yuan. It’s now a public holiday, and races are common across China. Beijing, Guangzhou, Hangzhou, Hong Kong and Guanxi Province’s super-scenic Li River host notable dragon-boat events. See cnto.org.au

Ceviche, Peru
This traditional dish of raw fish marinated in lime, red onion and chilli, with flavours that vary regionally, was once eaten at festivals and celebrations but has now become widespread – and internationally chic. You can try it anywhere over lunchtime from modest cevicherias to La Mar in Lima, the restaurant of world-renowned Peruvian chef Gaston Acurio. See peru.travel

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/link/follow-20170101-p5kmip