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Being best dressed on race day is simple (once you know the rules)

By Damien Woolnough

Mastering the intricacies of racewear can take years. There’s hat management, hemline control and choosing shoes that balance comfort with style so that you won’t be shuffling barefoot like Queen Camilla at the end of her Australian tour.

Champion swimmer Emma McKeon conquered the challenging mix of playful and polished faster than a duck, or her competition, takes to water.

Olympic swimmer Emma McKeon wearing Rebecca Vallance is diving into racewear as the official ambassador for champagne brand G.H. Mumm at the Melbourne Cup Carnival.

Olympic swimmer Emma McKeon wearing Rebecca Vallance is diving into racewear as the official ambassador for champagne brand G.H. Mumm at the Melbourne Cup Carnival.Credit: Simon Schluter

“It’s new to me, but I think the dress codes of each day make it fun,” says McKeon, who is an ambassador for G.H. Mumm champagne in the Birdcage at the Melbourne Cup carnival. “It’s all about experimentation, pushing things further with accessories and pieces that you wouldn’t wear normally.”

The last part is easy for our most-decorated Olympian, who is usually dripping with water instead of crystals on a tailored tuxedo dress. “I’m more used to bathing caps than headpieces,” she says.

“Embellishment and intricate details will play a strong part elevating the black and white looks of Derby Day,” says designer Rebecca Vallance.

Nicky Hilton Rothschild who will attend the Melbourne Cup carnival with designer Rebecca Vallance-Gasan in pieces from their holiday collection collaboration.

Nicky Hilton Rothschild who will attend the Melbourne Cup carnival with designer Rebecca Vallance-Gasan in pieces from their holiday collection collaboration.

Bold hues such as wine red and vibrant yellow are Vallance’s preference for Cup Day’s colourful code, followed by a shift to pale pastels for Oaks Day’s feminine theme. McKeon can leave her six gold medals at home, with metallics falling behind in popularity, along with the traditional deep dive into floral prints.

The international runways provide further ideas, with McKeon fittingly inspired by athletic silhouettes at the Dior show at Paris Fashion Week in September. At the Emporio Armani show in Milan, stylist Elliott Garnaut snatched a sleek, black velvet dress with a hooped hemline and matching toque for Sydney socialite Nadia Fairfax to wear on Derby Day.

“The balletcore trend should also come through at the spring carnival with lace details, bows and wispy tulle skirts,” says stylist Suzy Eskander.

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On Derby Day, Eskander will tap into the sustainability trend from this year’s Met Gala, where Zendaya wore archival gowns by John Galliano and Emily Ratajkowski revived a Versace dress from 2002.

“I will be re-wearing my Derby Day look from last year,” Eskander says. “You can even update millinery.”

Tweaking last year’s suit is also an option for men.

“Small adjustments, such as shortening the trouser hem or sleeve length to ensure it’s the perfect fit will elevate and complete a look,” says Joe Farage, founder of Farage.

Sophie Patrece and Ali Nejad model Derby Day looks at Flemington.

Sophie Patrece and Ali Nejad model Derby Day looks at Flemington.Credit: Eddie Jim

If you’re splurging on a new suit for Derby Day, steer clear of stark white and deep black options to increase your opportunities to wear them through spring and summer.

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“Choose grey or ivory as the base, or if you’re set on black introduce a pinstripe weave.”

On Cup Day or Oaks Day men can have fun with colour, but Farage would prefer they focus on a strong silhouette, similar to Paul Mescal’s brown Gucci suit for the Sydney premiere of Gladiator II.

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Original URL: https://www.smh.com.au/link/follow-20170101-p5km68