This Australian-designed safari lodge feels more like a coastal resort

Hunched down behind the dusty, bush beaten Toyota Landcruiser, my guide Clever Moyo carefully assesses the paw prints stamped into the white earth. They belong to a lion – and we just missed it.

“The tracks are so fresh,” says Clever, turning to see which way the big cat might have gone when another, louder clue comes from the direction of the Zambezi River: an urgent simian cry. “They must have gone in the direction of the baboons, that is why they are calling.”

Waterbuck on watch in the Zambezi National Park.

Dashing back to our seats, Clever hits the throttle and we veer east, bouncing over a semi-dried saltpan and plunging into the dense mopane woods of Zambezi National Park. Wedged tightly into the far-western corner of Zimbabwe, the 56,000-hectare park is a haven for some of East Africa’s most charismatic wildlife. Elephants, buffalo, giraffe, zebra and herds of sable antelope are all drawn here to drink from the fast-flowing river that culminates in thundering Victoria Falls just a few kilometres further downstream.

So far, the only trace of lions we’ve found have been whispers in the dirt, but our luck might be about to change. Clever steers us towards the riverbanks and a tree line occupied by clearly disturbed baboons: their white fangs bared and the stiff hair on their backs clearly visible against the golden glow of the westering sun. The baboons have the advantage of height, and their warning calls have alerted other animals that a threat is prowling nearby. A loose crowd of impala and pheasants has gathered around the trees; a form of communal protection as more eyes mean more chance of spotting the predators.

The camp at Mpala Jena.

We watch and wait, but still no lion. The cries subside and the animals disperse. One by one, the baboons climb down from the tree, scratch themselves and move on. The big cat’s hunt has been foiled, and it has melted into the bush without a trace.

In all our waiting, we’ve lost track of time and realise we’re due back at camp. Racing the sun, the smell of wood-fire first greets us as we approach Mpala Jena, a tented luxury riverfront camp on a small private concession inside the national park. The property was completely rebuilt in 2022, with Australian architect Craig Hayman brought onboard to reconfigure it and give it a fresher, more modern take.

The result feels like a coastal resort that has been airlifted from Madagascar and dropped on the side of the Zambezi: a white sandy oasis of thatched huts, swing seats at the bar, hammocks, and a pool to lounge by. The resident hippo, William, sometimes wanders through camp, but guests should really keep an eye out for the squirrels who frequently raid the tented suites searching for snacks.

Days are spent speedboating up and down the river on hippo-spotting safaris or taking a proper drenching on an excursion to Victoria Falls. Come evening, I can either relax around the bush campfire and sink my toes in the sand or set sail aboard a private dhow for sundowners on the river. I’ve opted for the latter and, after dashing out of the Landcruiser and down to the docks, the skipper is waiting patiently to cast off.

Sundowners on the water.

After a frenetic arrival, it’s all smooth sailing as we chart a course upstream, carefully navigating river’s rocky shallows and eddies. Stretched out on a bed of cushions, a glass of champagne in hand, I count the weaver bird nests hanging from the rushes like baubles. The banks suddenly explode with colour as a flock of rainbow-coloured bee-eaters all take flight at once. Overhead, in between blooms of pink and purple cloud, Venus pops into the blushing sky.

THE DETAILS

TOUR
Bench Africa specialises in tailored safari experiences ranging from less than $250 a day to $1000-plus a day. A three-day stay at Mpala Jen starts from $3735 and includes return airport transfers, national park entry fees, all meals and local drinks, laundry, wildlife game drives, guided walking and boating excursions, and a half-day tour of Victoria Falls See benchafrica.com; greatplainsconservation.com

FLY
Qantas flies direct from Sydney to Johannesburg, with connecting services with South African Airways and Airlink to Victoria Falls airport. Qantas also offers routes via Singapore and Addis Ababa in partnership with Ethiopian Airlines. See qantas.com

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The writer travelled as a guest of Bench Africa.