The childhood order from overprotective parents and grandparents to “grab your cardigan” is echoing across today’s chilly fashion landscape.
In the greatest makeover since Queen Camilla went from daggy and dangerous to cool and respectable, the once musty cardigan has become an essential element in every wardrobe.
The cardigan comeback: Coach winter 2024 collection; Alessandro Michele’s debut collection for Valentino, resort 2025; Kim Kardashian at the Met Gala in custom Maison Margiela bu John Galliano.
Cardigans dominated the latest winter collection from US luxury label Coach, stole the show on Kim Kardashian at the Met Gala as part of a Maison Margiela gown and added extra appeal to former Gucci designer Alessandro Michele’s debut as creative director of Valentino this week.
“In the past six months, cardigans have been the most popular type of knitwear on-site,” says Sinead Cutts, style director at online luxury outlet The Outnet. “The quality and versatility of this style will see our customers wearing them for many seasons to come.”
While there has been increased demand for The Outnet’s cardigans from luxury labels Ganni, Maje and Claude Pierlot, local knitwear specialist McIntyre Merino is expanding its knitwear offering for on-trend shoppers.
“We don’t add many new styles to our collection each season, but this winter we introduced two women’s cardigans to meet demand,” says founder Ned Schofield. “They are a great seller and fall into the quiet luxury segment. They look chic but are effortless and comfortable. Our bestseller is perfect with wide-fit pants, which are obviously in right now.”
A model at the Viktoria & Woods show at Australian Fashion Week in May; Miu Miu autumn/winter 2023-2024 show at Paris Fashion Week.Credit: Getty
The return of the cardigan from fashion purgatory, where it lingered beside skinny jeans and tartan, can be traced back to 2019, when actor Katie Holmes wore a dark oatmeal cashmere number over a matching bra from Khaite.
“Since Katie Holmes wore her viral Khaite cardigan and matching bra, the humble cardigan has had an elegant and even sexy makeover,” Cutts says. “The cardigan definitely has longevity in our wardrobes. It’s ability to be styled up and down, layered with shirting or a matching tank, makes it a failsafe capsule piece.”
For Melbourne designer Margie Woods of Viktoria & Woods, the cardigan’s shift from staple to statement piece took place on the Miu Miu runway in the 2023 winter collection from designer Miuccia Prada.
“The cardigan has been a part of our own collections since the very beginning,” says Woods. “It’s the very first piece we launched with. What has changed is the way that women are wearing it since that Miu Miu show.”
“As well as being a strong layering piece it now has that sexy edge. Guests at our Australian Fashion Week show were styling them up in eye-catching ways.”
To celebrate Viktoria & Woods 20th anniversary, a logo cardigan was produced, but long-length and prim, fitted styles are part of the current collection.
“Part of their appeal is that they are an investment piece,” Woods says. “If you look for cardigans made from a quality fibre in a great knit, they will definitely carry you through upcoming seasons.”
Anna Quan designer Anna Hoang credits the versatility of cardigans for their current popularity, particularly with concerns about the cost of living.
“More and more customers want clothing that can perform a multitude of functions,” Hoang says. “That’s why mine work as a dress, beneath a coat or with pants. I see them worn in ways that I never expected, but that’s the joy of fashion.”
Anna Quan’s most popular cardigans are belted, allowing wearers to cinch the waist.
“It lets the wearer have a more cinched and feminine silhouette,” says Prue Webb, co-founder of personal styling service The Wardrobe Edit. “But there’s a lot more that you can do with a cardigan.”
Webb suggests knotting fitted styles at the waist, wearing them as scarves or even on top of evening wear.
“It’s that same juxtaposition as a man’s blazer over a ballgown,” she says. “With a cardigan there are no rules. Once upon a time, you would wear a fitted cardigan on top of wide pants, but now go big. Have some cardigan confidence. The chunkier the better.”
Make the most of your health, relationships, fitness and nutrition with our Live Well newsletter. Get it in your inbox every Monday.