What most visitors miss on Kyoto’s bucket-list trail

Seven wonders of the Philosopher’s Path, Kyoto, Japan

1 Get into the spirit of moss

The misnamed Ginkaku-ji or Silver Temple sits just above the path’s northern end and is actually a wooden retirement pavilion. It’s a busy place, primarily for its raked Zen garden. But take yourself into the moss garden to calibrate your attitude for the Philosopher’s Path, which is best appreciated in the detail, and philosophically. The little mossy hillside is a mini-landscape of green tranquillity, scissor-clipped to perfection. Arrive early in the morning and enjoy the dewdrops.

2 Take a slow shuffle

Cherry blossoms along the Philosopher’s Path.Credit: Alamy

Kyoto could easily entrap you in bucket-list busyness. The Philosopher’s Path has no big-name sights and runs under three kilometres: rush and you’ll wonder what the fuss is about. Instead, immerse yourself in the haiku life. Sit on a stone bench and listen to birds twittering in bamboo. Watch cherry blossoms flutter as a reminder of life’s transience. Stop to slurp noodles from a Hobbit-sized shop. If you’re done in an hour, you simply haven’t done it right.

3 Make a short detour to Honen-in Temple

Honen-in crouches in the woods just off the Philosopher’s Path and is a popular go-to when autumn foliage erupts. Most of the time, its peaceful green charm gives it the air of another world, exemplified by its cobbled entrance path between two piles of sand said to purify the mind. A small pond, little bridge, thatched gateway, and moss-dappled garden – as so often in traditional Japan, the sum of its unassuming parts is wonderful.

4 Meet the mice at Otoyo-jinja Shrine

Stone mice at the Otoyo-jinja Shrine show Japan’s love of the cute predates the Hello Kitty age.Credit: Getty Images

For all the crowds of the Philosopher’s Path, you’ll find tranquillity on detours towards the hillside. Otoyo-jinja goes mostly ignored by tourists but has a couple of charming stone guardian mice, one holding a scroll and the other a slice of cake that show Japan’s love of the cute predates the Hello Kitty age. Otoyo-jinja is the neighbourhood’s guardian shrine, so you’ll often see locals discreetly clapping to attract the attention of Shinto gods.

5 Pay your respects to the path’s founder

Emperor Go-Shirakawa founded the small Nyakuoji-jinja Shrine in 1160.Credit: Alamy

Nyakuoji-Jinja Shrine dates to 1160, when it was established by a retired emperor. The immaculately kept shrine is hung with white paper lanterns and wooden ema boards inscribed with the wishes of visitors. Note the little wishing cups at the feet of some jizo statues, the guardian deities of children and travellers. On the hillside behind, you’ll find the tomb of 19th century educator Niijima Jo, whose pensive walks gave the Philosopher’s Path its name.

6 Enjoy the sound of water in Eikan-do Temple

Autumn foliage outside Eikan-do.Credit: Alamy

The most charming temple might be Eikan-do, also outrageous with colour in autumn; the trees look magical under evening illuminations. Sit on the wooden verandah of any of the buildings dotted through expansive grounds and contemplate nature. The main hall has an unusual Buddha looking over his shoulder. Glorious wooden stairs lead to Taho-to Pagoda for great city views. Look out for the sunken earthen jar designed to create agreeable musicality when water is poured into it.

7 Take time out at Nanzen-ji Temple

The Philosopher’s Path peters out just before Nanzen-ji. This is one of Japan’s foremost Zen Buddhist compounds, entered through a vast gate taller than the trees. Hojo main hall has painted sliding screens and a renowned Zen garden of well-placed rocks, but you know by now to seek out tranquil corners. Of several sub-temples, choose Tenjuan for its pond and rock gardens, and enjoy a last moment of contemplation before you charge off, back onto the bucket-list trail.

The writer was a guest of Japan Airlines (jal.co.jp/au/en) and Kyoto City Tourism Association (kyoto.travel/en).

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