Captain Cook gave this island the wrong name, but somehow got it right

As some places around Australia revert to their original names, Magnetic Island, called Yunbenun by the local Indigenous Wulgurukaba people, seems like a likely candidate to follow suit.

It is, after all, named by mistake. Captain James Cook, during his voyage up the east coast of Australia in 1770, passed by and witnessed his compass go crazy.

Captain Cook believed the island’s large boulders somehow had a magnetic effect.Credit: iStock

It must be something to do with this island, thought Cook, with its dramatic coastline of huge boulders, piled on top of each other –hence the name.

It was, however, a blunder. There was nothing on the island that affected Cook’s instruments (despite modern efforts to figure out what might have caused the phenomenon). So rather than retain it as some kind of tribute to the great explorer, reverting to its original name would also cover up one of Cook’s embarrassing mistakes.

I’m heading to the island with my family for a few days during a visit to Townsville. As the ferry makes its way the short distance from the city to the island, I get chatting to an elderly husband and wife sitting opposite.

They’re full of tips and insider knowledge of where to go and what to do on “Maggie”. They reveal they’ve just made the trip across to Townsville that morning to visit the local Sunday market before heading back to the island.

A young rock wallaby.

The nature of the conversation leads me to believe they are locals. It’s only towards the end of the journey they reveal they’re actually from Melbourne.

“We relocate to Magnetic Island every winter for four months,” says the husband. “When you get to our age, Melbourne’s winter gets into your bones.”

I know what he means. Less than 24 hours ago, I was wearing a down jacket and scarf as I made my way to Melbourne Airport. Now I’m in a T-shirt and shorts, wishing I’d put sunscreen on.

Magnetic Island is unlike some of the other holiday islands off Queensland’s coast, in that it’s technically a suburb of Townsville, only about half an hour by ferry from the coastal city of nearly 200,000 people.

The Grand Mercure Apartments.

It’s understandable, then, why people staying on the island might decide to pop into town on the ferry to do some shopping.

We disembark and take a short walk to our accommodation at the Grand Mercure, a large complex of holiday apartments. My own apartment is a ground floor, three-bedroom space with a courtyard, terrace and everything one could possibly need for an extended stay here.

The fact Magnetic Island is a city suburb, with its own community, and not just a series of resorts and other holiday accommodation, gives it some distinct advantages. For one, there’s a cheap and regular bus system (though tickets can only be purchased with cash) which makes getting around relatively easy.

Five Beach Bay is home to gorgeous beaches.

Additionally, there are many of the other conveniences you might expect in a regular community – a supermarket, plenty of cafes and restaurants. It’s not hard to find somewhere to eat (as long as you don’t leave it too late in the evening).

At the same time, it still feels relaxed enough to offer the vibe of a bush retreat. That’s evidenced by the rock wallabies who appear outside our terrace each morning, unperturbed by the presence of my excitable young children.

The kids get an even closer experience with native animals at Selina Koala Park in the island’s interior the next day, where they get the opportunity to rub the belly of a fat hairy-nosed wombat, stroke the fur of a koala and feel the smooth skin of a python. They’re delighted, at least after they overcome their initial nervousness.

On our second morning, we rise early and take a short walk down to the marina to join a boat tour with local operator Aquascene, which takes us around the north of the island to Five Beach Bay, which, as the name suggests, features five small bays each with a gorgeous secluded beach.

Along the way Aquascene owner and guide Adam Hinks shares the island’s history while pointing out key features along the way. He spots the white chest and head of a brahminy kite perched in a tree on shore. Adam provides one of the passengers with a small fish to hold out from the boat and, quick as a flash, the bird of prey swoops on it, snatching it from the passenger’s outstretched hand.

The weather has been overcast and the water choppy throughout the morning, but as we arrive in the sheltered Huntingfield Bay (home to one of the five aforementioned beaches), the sun breaks through and bathes us in tropical Queensland heat.

It’s enough for us to comfortably go swimming, and the kids love dashing between the rocks as gentle waves roll in. They run about so much, in fact, that on the way back they fall fast asleep while the other passengers jump back in the water to snorkel a reef.

That night we sleep soundly after a hearty meal of fish and chips from the popular Stuffed on Seafood.

Heading back to the mainland on the ferry the next morning and anticipating a return to the depths of Melbourne winter, I already start thinking about coming back next year. I can understand why that Melbourne couple fly north to escape the cold. The attraction is magnetic indeed. Perhaps Cook was right after all.

THE DETAILS

Fly
Qantas and Jetstar fly direct to Townsville from Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane, while Virgin Australia also flies from Brisbane.

Stay
Apartments at the Grand Mercure Apartments Magnetic Island start from $250 for a one bedroom or $350 for a two bedroom. See accor.com

See and do
Aquascene’s Discovery Tour costs $150 for adults and $109 for children (two to 14 years old) and includes morning tea and refreshments, snorkelling gear, wetsuits and stinger suits, and access to other water equipment such as stand-up paddleboards. See aquascenemagneticisland.com.au

Entry and tour of the island’s Koala Park costs $50 for adults and $30 for children (five to 15 years old) See selina.com

Eat
Stuffed on Seafood is close to the Grand Mercure and offers a wide variety of Queensland seafood including crayfish, Moreton Bay bugs and more. See stuffedonseafood.com.au

For more options, there is an abundance of cafes and restaurants on the other side of the island on Horseshoe Bay’s Pacific Drive.

The writer stayed as a guest of Townsville Enterprise

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