London calling: The Australian fashion designers taking over the UK

The UK gave us mini skirts, bumster jeans and bustles, courtesy of Mary Quant, Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood. Now Australian designers are repaying our country’s style debt.

In the rush towards Christmas, the racks of London department stores are heaving with Australian labels.

Rebecca Vallance is stocked in three of London’s biggest department stores, as the British embrace Australian design. Back from a special event at Harrods, Vallance poses in her new Brisbane store.Credit: Glenn Hunt

Harrods, in the midst of a £200 million ($382 million) makeover, stocks 18 Australian fashion brands. Across the road at Harvey Nichols there are 11 Australian labels, while a brisk walk through Hyde Park takes you to Selfridges where there are 16.

“The London woman is the same as the Australian woman,” says Rebecca Vallance, who was named Marie Claire magazine’s Designer of the Year on Tuesday and is stocked in all three UK stores. “She loves to get dressed up for an event, whether it’s Ascot, the festive season or a night on the town.”

“Our customers in London are even braver when it comes to colour. Our yellow dresses sell more strongly in the UK than Australia. We are not selling many black dresses and when we are, they have some extra sparkle.”

Champion equestrian Zara Tindall left Vallance’s launch on the rooftop terrace at Harrod’s two weeks ago with a black dress featuring pearl details for her uncle’s birthday that night. The next day, British tabloids featured photographs of Tindall leaving Clarence House, following her uncle King Charles’s 75th birthday celebration in the $899 dress, driving further sales.

UK sales of Rebecca Vallance have increased by 300 per cent in two years. The UK is included in the brand’s European sales figures which make up 49 per cent of the business’s overall wholesale revenue.

The Alemais pop-up at Harvey Nichols department store in London; Princess Anne’s daughter Zara Tindall with designer Rebecca Vallance at Harrods, London; Australian labels Commas and Song For The Mute in the menswear department of Harrods. 

“When I was starting out my first order was with Harvey Nichols, 13 years ago” says Vallance, who launched the label in London after spotting similarities between the Australian and UK market. “That was when I knew I was onto something. We are still there and that’s saying something.”

On the floor above Vallance’s bow-laden mini-dresses and sparkling gowns in Harvey Nichols, past countryman Christopher Esber’s body skimming dresses with swooping cut-outs and Dion Lee’s stretch corsets, rising Australian brand Alemais has a sprawling pink pop-up space filled with folkloric print dresses and patchwork floral pieces.

The bold signature of Alemais designer Lesleigh Jermanus strikes a chord with customers in the UK. A model takes to the runway in Alemais at Australian Fashion Week in May at Carriageworks, Sydney.Credit: Getty

“The UK comprises approximately 20 per cent of our export business, and we have over 20 accounts in this market,” says Alemais co-founder and creative director Lesleigh Jermanus, who launched the label in 2020. “This customer has spending power, but they also have so much choice, with access to every brand presented to them in an elevated way, so they’re really looking for the best.”

“We’re seeing approximately 75 per cent year-on-year growth from the UK market.”

It’s the exuberant style signatures of Alemais, Rebecca Vallance and peers Zimmermann, Bec & Bridge, Camilla and Aje, that appeal to UK customers.

“The talent coming out of Australia is exceptional with many producing strong collections that use daring colours and print, which resonates incredibly well with Harrods’ customers, and sets them aside from other markets,” says Clemmie Harris, head of contemporary fashion at Harrods.

“We have more Australian designers than we ever have before, and see particular strength in ready-to-wear and swimwear, with stand out high performers such as Camilla, Zimmerman and Camilla & Marc. We are launching Alex Perry, as a UK exclusive stockist on November 27, which is hugely exciting for our more dressed-up customers.”

Giving UK department stores exclusives is one way for Australian labels to stay on their shelves.

Camilla, which has expanded beyond kaftans to swimwear, kids and menswear, offers all of its categories in Harrods. To drive sales, an exclusive print, Dear Amore Mio, was offered to the store.

“The department stores are so important in the UK and particularly London because they are tourist destinations,” says Vallance. “It’s just as important to be seen in them as to be online.”

Luxury Australian menswear labels are also attracting UK customers, with resort brand Commas’ £1190 ($2273) cashmere coat sitting directly across from Song For the Mute’s £1109 ($2118) faux leather blazer.

“Stores like Harrods are interested in representing the full Commas offering,” says the brand’s communications director Emma Jarman. The UK supports 35 per cent of Commas’ wholesale revenue.

“They invest in new, interesting and special pieces like accessories and heavier options from our winter collections. They are happy to take a risk and eager to provide their customers with something fascinating.”

“The buyers and clients are such early adopters. The stores service so much of Europe and the world with the sheer number of visitors each year.”

So, do the customers at these British shopping destinations know that they are buying an Australian label when they take a dress from Esber, Camilla & Marc or Zimmermann home?

“Does it matter?” Vallance asks. “I think many people still think of Australia as quite laid back. What we are seeing from Australian labels here in the UK is sophistication and that is something I am very proud of.”

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