An expert expat’s tips for Istanbul, Turkey

The Gulf War was breaking out when author Lisa Morrow moved to Turkey in 1990. She saw US Navy ships moored in the Sea of Marmara, but says even that didn’t put her off. Endless glasses of Turkish tea later, Lisa traded Northbridge, on Sydney’s lower north shore, for Kadıkoy, on Istanbul’s Asian shore, where she has now lived for 13 years. Lisa is the author of Istanbul 50 Unsung Places, insideoutinistanbul.com.

Lisa Morrow relocated to Turkey in 1990. Pictured: Istabul’s incredible Blue Mosque.Credit: Alamy

See

Set atop a hill in Beykoz, Hıdiv Kasrı was built in 1907 for Khedive Abbas Hilmi II of Egypt and Sudan. He wanted to take back control of Egypt from the British, and planned to woo the Turks into helping. Hıdiv Kasrı, also known as Cubuklu Vılla, was to be the setting for said wooing. No-one knows for certain who designed it, but the end result is glorious. Light shines through a glass ceiling onto a marble fountain in an indoor courtyard, a small, elegant elevator caged in an art nouveau brass frame glides slowly upwards while gleaming art deco light fittings adorn a curved dining room known as the Crystal Hall.

The grand Khedive Palace, also know as Hidiv Kasri.Credit: iStock

Do

Catch a ferry, anywhere. I like to start at Kadıkoy and sail along the Golden Horn to Eyupsultan. Eyup (Job) Ansari was Prophet Muhammed’s standard bearer, and his tomb lies next to a grand mosque with 500-year-old plane trees in the courtyard surrounded by stately buildings. Little boys dressed as princes in sparkly caps and capes come here on sunnet (circumcision) outings and Muslim pilgrims browse the shops for souvenirs.

Lisa is the author of ‘Istanbul 50 Unsung Places’.

Eat

If you’re a meat-lover, go to the Kadınlar Pazarı, a market square in Fatih, for buryan kebab. Buryan is lamb cooked in a tandoor oven for hours until the meat slides off the bone. I always eat at Siirt Seref Buryan Kebab, which is one street back from the main drag. For special occasions, I book a table at Ocak in Sirkeci. Even before chef Omer Bozyap made it into the first Michelin guide to Istanbul, I always ordered his pazı dolması. It’s a stuffed chard dish made to a recipe from his best friend from primary school’s mother, with Omer’s special, added twist.

Drink

I rarely go to bars in Turkey. Despite the no-smoking inside rule, not all venues police it and outdoor areas are usually bathed in smoke. However, I do like wine and Wayana Wine Bar in Moda, Kadıkoy, offers the widest by-the-glass selection in the city. In the last decade, Turkish wineries have started to produce some good drops and there’s a lot to try. The space is small, so book first.

Delicious morsels at Wayana Wine Bar.

Avoid

Don’t limit your outings to simply Sultanahmet, Taksim and Galata. Istanbul has a lot more to offer if you’re prepared to go further afield. Outside major tourist areas not as many people speak English but Turkish people love to help so when in doubt, ask. Where possible, stick to public transport, but note buses can be slow and crowded. If you do have to catch a taxi, make sure the metre is on (it’s in the rearview vision mirror) and pay only in lira. If possible, download and use the BiTaksi app.

Meat-lovers can head to market square Kadınlar Pazarı.Credit: iStock

Thrive

The chaos, noise, colour and sheer volume of things to see, do and eat in Istanbul is fabulously stimulating but can become overwhelming. Validebag Korusu, a nature reserve full of different species of trees and easy walks throughout, is a great place to refresh and recharge. Oh, and don’t drink the tap water in Istanbul. The pipes are often old so you never know what extras you might imbibe.