Want to wear denim at the office? Go for a streamlined approach

After 149 years denim workwear has escaped its rough and ready origins on the farm and broken through the wool suit ceiling to become appropriate attire in many offices. It started before COVID-19 with the popularity of casual Fridays, but after working from home during lockdown many men are now unwilling to trade their jeans for trousers.

“Everyone stopped wearing suits in lockdown and wanted to get comfortable in their sweatpants,” says Melbourne menswear designer Christian Kimber. “Now that they are returning to work, no one is asking for suiting. It’s all about soft tailoring and comfort, which now includes denim.”

Models Sam Wines and Eric Boesten demonstrating the new work code in tailor Christian Kimber’s new denim collection.Credit: Justin McManus

Kimber, the winner of the National Designer of the Year in 2019, has built a reputation for translating the relaxed elegance of Italian menswear into an Australian design language for Melbourne’s cashmere-loving corporate set.

It was his well-heeled clientele that set the Italian looms in motion for straight-legged jeans.

Designer Christian Kimber launched denim as part of his menswear collection at Melbourne Fashion Festival.Credit: Justin McManus

“My whole business has been client-based, creating pieces that the customer demands, and now they want denim to wear to work. People want to express their individuality in the office, feel comfortable and still look smart.”

Before reaching for your compression tights and trying to squeeze back into skinny jeans or dusting off your bumsters with frayed holes at the knees, Kimber is advocating a streamlined approach for jeans on junior executives.

“It’s all about having a higher rise at the front, using Italian denim that feel more like a trouser. They are slightly wider at the knee because Australian men are active and like freedom of movement. There are no embellishments and no logos.”

The relaxed approach to office attire is being taken even further internationally, with luxury e-tailer The Outnet, part of the Net-a-Porter group, seeing a shift in buying habits on its new, dedicated men’s section.

“Menswear does seem more relaxed than ever, moving away from traditional trends and adopting a new take on traditional styles,” says Emma Mortimer, managing director of The Outnet.

“For example, cardigans can be worn as a jacket and tailoring can become casual with items such as oversized Bermuda shorts, and puffer and bomber jackets instead of a suit jacket. Wearing colour is a great way to show self-expression and creativity. We are now also seeing lots of rainbow brights, which is a nice shift from the traditional menswear palette of navy, black and neutral.”

Rainbow brights are a stitch too far for Kimber, who launched the denim as part of the Melbourne Fashion Festival with an intimate show at the Hilton Hotel in the former Melbourne Equity Chambers, where suits once reigned supreme.

His modern work palette occupied neutral territory, with creamy terracotta, buttery tan and more bones than a museum, along with punches of blue in the denim and knitwear.

“The approach is still the same,” Kimber says. “You are still dressing to go to work and to see clients. It’s still respectful tailoring. It’s just the result is no longer a suit – instead you’re in jeans and that’s enough for most modern offices.” No crease down the middle required.

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