Gorman is more than a clothing brand, it’s a cultural phenomenon.
Described variously as the unofficial uniform of arts workers or “Ken Done for Millennials”, the brand has a cult following among women who adore the colourful fabrics and quirky designs.
Fans call themselves “Gormies”, show off their outfits on the Facebook group Gorman Outfit of the Day or at Instagram with #showusyourgorman, and buy, swap and sell in the quest for elusive “unicorns” - pieces that people missed out on the first time and have longed for ever since.
Sydneysiders Holly Lyons (left) and Amy Stewart still love their Gorman outfits but are no longer part of the "Gormie" tribe.Credit: Cole Bennetts
But there is increasing disgruntlement among Gorman fans about the quality of the clothing and the brand's manufacturing ethics, and a growing number of former fans who are moving on. Even many committed fans concede that if we haven't reached Peak Gorman yet, it could be coming soon.
Yet regular releases including limited editions in collaboration with artists such as Mirka Mora and Dana Kinter keep customers coming back. The most recent, launched this month, is in partnership with artists from Mangkaja Arts in Western Australia, in a widely applauded deal endorsed by the Indigenous Art Code.
Like other cult brands such as Camilla, Gorman’s highly recognisable aesthetic provides plenty of opportunities for female bonding - when Gormies spot each other, they might smile and nod or even take selfies together.
Amy Stewart, a freelance screenwriter from Alexandria in Sydney, says it feels like being part of a tribe with “instant friendship”.
Felicity Pickering, who works in film and now lives in Los Angeles, once heard from a roommate seeking a career in arts administration that her mentor had recommended her to buy a piece of Gorman and wear it to all job interviews.
“In Sydney, it's a cultural status symbol, it's the staple of a creative corporate wardrobe,” Ms Pickering said.
Friendships are formed online as well, with members of the GOTD group describing it as a highly supportive community of like-minded women.
“I genuinely care about these ladies and have never once heard anyone say anything nasty about another,” one member said. “If it takes a fashion label to do that, then EVERYONE should own an item of Gorman clothing.”
Lisa Gorman with model, Domanique Hutchins, wearing a dress with artwork from Mangkaja Artists, and surrounded by their artwork in the Museum of Contemporary Art in Sydney.Credit: Janie Barrett
The brand was founded 20 years ago in Melbourne by a former nurse turned fashion designer, Lisa Gorman. In a city that only wore black, Gorman turned fashionable Melburnians onto colour. It was boutique, ethical and well-made, a niche now being filled by up-and-coming brands such as Obus.
There is still a feel-good factor about Gorman but there is also growing dissatisfaction with the direction taken since 2010 when the company was part bought by Factory X, the parent company of brands such as Dangerfield, Alannah Hill and Revival.
Both Lisa Gorman, who was in Darwin for the Mangkaja launch last week, and the company itself were unavailable to comment for this piece.
If you get fans or former fans talking about what's changed, a few themes keep coming up.
The first is manufacturing ethics. In 2016 the brand received an F in the Baptist World Aid Ethical Fashion Report because it declined to take part. Fans were outraged and while Gorman now participates and scores a much more respectable B, many fans expect more.
Diana Silva Bigazzi from Marrickville in Sydney has been “trying to wean herself off Gorman” for this very reason - though she still buys the artists’ collaborations.
“When there is little transparency about the people who actually make the clothes and how they are treated, it feels like they're not really telling the whole story and it’s more of a PR strategy,” Ms Bigazzi said.
One Gorman shop assistant from Sydney, who requested anonymity, said she disliked some of the company's practices.
“They put on a front of being environmentally conscious by phasing out single use bags, yet all of the stock we receive from China is packaged in excessive amounts of plastic,” she said.
Then there are the gripes about quality. Gorman dresses, jumpsuits, skirts and trousers often cost hundreds of dollars full price, but many customers say they just don’t last.
Holly Lyons and Amy Stewart (jumping) have both noticed a decline in quality.Credit: Cole Bennetts
Ms Stewart said she spent $3500 on Gorman last year thinking she was investing in a quality wardrobe but despite following care guidelines, problems have included frayed seams, buttons falling off, holes in the fabric, shrinking and colour runs.
“I have the Gorman bedspread, I've got a Gorman lunch box, I got really addicted,” Ms Stewart said.
“It got to the point that if my husband and I were having a fight and it was his fault, which is most of the time, he would buy me Gorman socks as a sorry present instead of flowers. Pretty much everything I have in my wardrobe is Gorman now and so I have to wear Gorman because it's all I've got, but it's all falling apart, which is a shame.”
She has not bought a single Gorman item since the start of the year because she was unimpressed with the response when she raised her concerns.
Finally, there’s brand fatigue.
“The main reason I avoid Gorman now is every time I wear Gorman people recognise it immediately ‘Is that Gorman?’ - the brand prides itself for unique designs, but actually, somehow they are not unique at all - they are everywhere,” said Holly Lyons from Avalon. “The mystery has gone.”