Scene queens

Even as a little girl, I daydreamed about fashion. I would dash to my mother's closet as soon as I woke up each morning. Who needed cereal and cartoons? I preferred her trove of designer high heels, jewellery, scarves, furs and jumpsuits. But it wasn't just about playing dress-up – I didn't even need a mirror. As soon as I layered myself in her chunky tribal necklaces and stood in her chic Maud Frizon heels, I felt instantly like a glamorous woman.

When I was about 13, my parents took my older sister, Pamela, and me to Europe for the first time. In Saint-Tropez, I spotted these incredibly elegant women meticulously tanned right down to their ankles and dripping with gold jewellery. Each looked so effortlessly chic, as though she had stepped right off the beach into a little black dress and piled her hair into a messy topknot. Voilà! I knew in that moment that I wanted to be that woman. Always.

Fashion forward … Rachel Zoe is young Hollywood's go-to girl for red-carpet style.Credit: Getty Images

And what I realised when we returned home to our traditional suburb of Short Hills, New Jersey, was that I could be that woman – well, sort of – if I dressed the part. Pictures from my early teens show me wearing that topknot and as much gold jewellery as I could "borrow" from my mom. Like many others, I also turned to Madonna as my saint of style and sometimes wore rubber bangles up my arms and teased my hair into a wavy bob. All the while, I pored over fashion magazines such as Vogue, Elle and Harper's Bazaar for inspiration. I wanted to know everything about new designers and trends.

My friends became my models. Girls would come to my house after school for their makeovers. I would restyle their clothes with scarves and belts, or roll up their jeans and add new shoes – I even redid their hair and make-up. We called it "Dress up with Rachel". Back at that time, I had no idea that I could build a career around my love for making people look their best. The closest

I came to working in fashion in my teens was a part-time job at Nine West, where I sold the most shoes out of all the employees each week. Even then, I had this contagious enthusiasm for fashion. I would slip a pump onto a woman's foot and say, "This shoe is going to change everything for you."

After I graduated from high school, I went to George Washington University and majored in psychology and sociology. How we think and behave has always fascinated me; that education has proven to be a great foundation for what I do now. As a stylist, I understand how fashion can affect your mood and your perspective. It's not just about clothes. What you wear is a visual extension of your self-expression. A velvet tuxedo jacket or a vintage kaftan can help identify who you are and how you want to be seen. Now, as a designer, I contemplate that power whenever I sketch the strong lines of a suit or test the weight and feel of one of my bold cuffs.

Fashion excites me today as much as it did when I sat in the back row and watched my first magical Marc Jacobs show. I still literally get goose bumps when the lights go down and the music starts – whether it's the show of a new and upcoming designer or my own collection coming down the runway.

My own aesthetic is anchored in a carefree elegance that reigned in fashion during the '60s and '70s. When I'm musing on my next collection or dressing a client for the red carpet, I always think about the amazingly stylish women who constantly influence me.

Each of these icons inspires me in a completely different way, whether it's to play up the sexy appeal of androgyny or to steer more toward an ethereal romanticism. Meet my top 10 women of style and enjoy some tips on how you can emulate their glamour with a few key pieces.

THE FRENCH CHANTEUSE
Jane Birkin

"Keep smiling. It takes 10 years off."

Never mind her huge caramel eyes and those long blunt bangs, this gorgeous woman had an innate sense of personal style that everyone still tries to emulate. It was schoolgirl poet in her short, sweet dresses mixed with nonchalant street chic with her high-waisted denim and peacoats. She's one of my biggest influences when I design. In fact, I think every fashion designer has at least one Jane Birkin moment. She had this habit of never matching and yet her outfits always came together so perfectly. Hermès named what's become its most iconic bag after her – what could be cooler than that?

Wardrobe must-haves: a '60s-style A-line shift, cropped velvet pants and a pair of Parisian-chic leather ankle boots. Look for a long vintage pendant necklace and slender gold bangles to complete the look.

THE CHIC PREPPY
Ali MacGraw

"Looking at beautiful things is what makes me the happiest."

With that sleek curtain of shiny black hair and strong, striking features, this classic beauty epitomised the best of Ivy League style. Sure, her role in Love Story created a camel-hair craze, but her bohemian tomboy look offscreen is worthy of a once-over, too. Her preppy wardrobe staples included knit caps, sleek trousers and peasant blouses. MacGraw's early style always reminds me of modern-day Ralph Lauren. She really mastered androgyny, but added her own feminine flair with turbans and velvet chokers. I love the photos of her pre-actress days as a model and an assistant to Diana Vreeland at Vogue.

Wardrobe must-haves: a long, fitted sweater vest and a well-worn pair of brown equestrian boots. Add a knit cloche and chunky Navajo jewellery as accessories.

THE EVERYDAY BOMBSHELL
Brigitte Bardot

"Every age can be enchanting, provided you live within it."

If only we all woke up looking like my absolute idol. Somehow, Bardot – with her sensually tangled hair and dramatic cat-eye make-up – always nailed effortless glamour. It was as though she had just stepped out of a Mercedes convertible after doing her hair and make-up at 75 miles per hour. Even wearing a simple sundress with casual sandals around the south of France she managed to look extremely sexy without ever looking cheap.

Wardrobe must-haves: an off-the-shoulder sundress, striped bateau sweater and ballet flats. Accent the look with a thick headband and delicate gold chains.

DANCING QUEEN
Bianca Jagger

"I don't want to wear what every other woman wears. I won't be dictated to."

Leave it to the Studio 54 staple and Mick Jagger's former muse to wink at masculinity and look even more feminine for it. Jagger wore a custom white Yves Saint Laurent skirt suit to her 1971 Saint-Tropez wedding, and had a penchant for strong lines and tailored silhouettes. But she also knew to dabble heavily in Halston's buttery, fluid sheaths whenever she hit the dance floor. She not only defines glamour and sexiness, but disco, too. I reference her often when I'm styling or getting dressed for a night out.

Wardrobe must-haves: a tailored, slim-cut suit to wear with pumps and a lace camisole. One vintage '70s disco dress, preferably sequinned or threaded with gold lurex. A long pendant necklace and an envelope clutch make great finishing touches.

THE MID-CENTURY MOD WAIF
Edie Sedgwick

"It's not that I'm rebelling. It's that I'm just trying to find another way."

I never get tired of staring at pictures of the socialite whom Vogue once called a "youthquaker". With her pale lips, outrageous lashes and striped blonde pixie hair, she defined that whole era of linear '60s mod. I particularly love that she trotted around New York in a black leotard, tights, and a T-shirt because she practised ballet twice a day – and that this simple look became an "it girl" costume. It's a perfect example of how a signature style can identify you and become a classic.

Wardrobe must-haves: opaque black tights with a metallic minidress and a mod leopard-print coat. Add tassel earrings and lots of lucite cuffs as points of interest.

THE DESIGNER MUSE
Anjelica Huston

"Nothing I buy ever looks new, because I have my look down and it's classic."

Models with perfect symmetrical faces couldn't compete with Huston and her bold cubist features. I love that she highlighted her face as if it were a canvas by wearing her long, raven hair in a sleek chignon. Back then, she stood out amid the blonde-haired and blue-eyed models, and inspired women who didn't fit the all-American ideal of beauty. Her Irish roots showed in the way she wore tweed separates as evening wear, and Huston never met a fitted blazer she didn't like. She was a muse and model for both Halston and Valentino in the '60s and '70s – enough said. I named a pair of high-waisted wide-leg trousers in my first collection after her.

Wardrobe must-haves: a black crêpe jumpsuit with a deep V-neck that shows off your clavicle, and a one-shoulder party dress. Vintage geometric scarves, a sleek, structured bag and don't-mess-with-me sculptural cuffs all make perfect add-ons.

THE THINKING WOMAN'S SUPERMODEL
Iman

"I believe in glamour. I am in favour of a little vanity. Looking good is a commitment to yourself and to others."

Iman and I first bonded over our shared obsession with the disco era and that decade's unabashed celebration of chic. No one rocks a metallic jumpsuit like this multitalented woman, I swear. When she wore a maxi skirt and blouse from my resort collection to accept a prestigious award in Beverly Hills in 2011, I nearly melted. Like me, Iman is obsessed with kaftans and relies on statement accessories such as bold jewellery and knockout shoes to complete her look. But it's her generous spirit and the way in which she carries herself that comes to mind when I look to her for inspiration. She's invincible – the strongest woman I know.

Wardrobe must-haves: a velvet suit with flared pants and fitted jacket and a leather pencil skirt. A chain belt and a graphic choker are signature Iman accents, too.

THE FOLK HEROINE
Marianne Faithfull

"I wear Chanel. It doesn't go in and out of fashion at all."

There is so much soul to this woman's look, whether she's outfitted in a peasant dress and floppy hat or a miniskirt and silver Mary Janes. Faithfull battled a lot of demons in her early life and her style reflected her struggles and identities – from the happy hippie songbird to the raw, exposed rocker chick. You can see both those sides in her shaggy protective bangs, leather frocks and high boots. She screams retro rock'n'roll London to me and I can't get enough of that.

Wardrobe must-haves: a lace minidress, flat black ankle boots and a floral print blazer. Accessorise with a floppy felt fedora.

THE POWER VIXEN
Diane von Furstenberg

"Your clothes are your friends. Be the woman you want to be."

This woman is the epitome of everything I strive to be – she's a personal hero for so many reasons. Beyond her unique beauty and dynamic style, she exudes a strength and confidence that are captivating. She wears everything from a sequinned gown to denim and a tunic with authority and ease. She has never feared splashy prints and colour. Her outfits always skim her curves and suggest (rather than announce) her sexuality. She's an icon to so many generations of women.

Wardrobe must-haves: a wrap dress, of course, long printed dresses and a sleek fitted blazer that you can push up at the arms. An animal-print cashmere scarf and a clutch with bold hardware work perfectly as accents.

THE SCREEN SIREN
Sophia Loren

"Sex appeal is 50 per cent what you've got and 50 per cent what people think you've got."

Was there ever a time that this Italian superstar did not look drop-dead glamorous? I once saw her outside a Golden Globes party in Los Angeles, walked right up to her, and said, "I never, ever do this, but I have to say that you are amazing!" She smiled and replied in her silky Italian accent, "Thaaaank you so much." Loren, with her curves and exotic beauty, has sensuality and elegance down to a science. She wears a flouncy floral frock like it's a bandage dress and always manages to make cleavage a classy accessory.

Wardrobe must-haves: a sleeveless dress with a flared skirt and fitted bodice. Of course, a few pieces of classic lingerie like satin tap pants and a tulle and lace corset. You can't go wrong with an oversized black straw sunhat and classic nude stiletto pumps as well.

Edited extract from Living in Style by Rachel Zoe, published by Hachette Australia.

Lead-in image: Brigitte Bardot (Getty Images).