This capital city is a foodie’s paradise, and it’s only a short flight away

Wallaby tartare may not be the first thing that comes to mind when pondering Tasmania’s signature dish (freshly shucked oysters or a scallop pie, perhaps?). However, the marsupial’s appearance on many a Hobart menu was an unexpected yet not unpleasant surprise on a weekend spent exploring the city’s gourmet offerings. Hobart proves to be a culinary capital to rival its interstate counterparts, punching above its weight thanks to a cornucopia of premium produce, hot restaurants, warm hospitably and world-class wineries.

Restaurant Maria has a relaxed Italian coastal vibe.Credit: FIONA VAIL PHOTOGRAPHY

New to the scene, Restaurant Maria is a Mediterranean-inspired eatery on Brooke Street Pier, and with chef Christian Ryan at the helm and its relaxed Italian coastal vibe, it’s a welcome addition. Charred octopus with burnt lemon and taramasalata nod to Greece, but a starter of wallaby, macadamia hummus and sumac is locally inspired. For the uninitiated, wallaby is a sustainable option for Tasmanians and tourists (it’s illegal to eat it in other states), its meat lean, mild and slightly sweet.

At Aloft, also perched on the pier with equally expansive harbour views, the focus is on mod-Oz fare using the best local ingredients – think pitch-perfect scallops with nam jim, a koji pork cutlet and a tumble of sticky chilli eggplant that regulars refuse to let leave the menu.

More mouth-watering adventures await over the river at MONA where the eye-opening experience of David Walsh’s Museum of Old and New Art continues at Faro Bar & Restaurant. Suspended over the water, the dining room boasts vertiginous floor-to-ceiling windows, an immersive art installation by James Turrell, a roaming performance artist and a menu designed to shock and delight.

At Salamanca Market on Saturday mornings, kids queue for potato twists on a stick, the spirals of crispy fried potato an irresistible snack. The historic strip is lined with stalls selling woodwork, toys and vintage clothes. Be sure to pick up some local gin, leatherwood honey and Coal River Farm brie on the way out.

On Sundays, Farm Gate Market descends on Bathurst Street, offering a seasonal bounty of fresh fruit and vegetables, the quality and abundance almost overwhelming. Thankfully, strict airport biosecurity rules don’t apply when leaving the state, so you can head home with bags full of souvenir heirloom carrots.

West Hobart’s most luxurious Airbnb, Lumiere Lodge – an impeccably restored and beautifully furnished heritage cottage – is a perfectly located base, a place where croissants and condiments are kindly supplied for breakfast and a market haul can be transformed into a magnificent home-cooked meal in the fully equipped chef’s kitchen.

A meal at New Norfolk’s farm-to-table eatery, The Agrarian Kitchen, is an experience every self-respecting foodie should add to their bucket list. About 45 minutes out of town, and housed in an old psychiatric hospital, the combination of cooking school, kiosk, restaurant and kitchen garden is undeniably unique. Lunch begins with crudités in the greenhouse before a stroll through the walled garden’s verdant rows leads customers back to the dining room where every delicious dish is a carefully considered vehicle for hyper-local produce.

Back in town, Massimo Mele’s Peppina, an Italian restaurant in Salamanca Place’s elegant The Tasman hotel, is not to be missed. After a magnificent meal of pizza fritta, house-made ravioli with prawns and panna cotta, it makes sense to stay the night (the heritage suites are heaven) and enjoy a lavish buffet breakfast the following morning.

Perhaps Hobart’s signature isn’t one dish but an ever-changing interpretation of sensational seasonal produce by seriously talented chefs. Either way, it’s a thriving gastronomic hotspot that just keeps getting better.

The writer was a guest of Lumiere Lodge and The Tasman.

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