‘Their shoes are on fire’: Yes, they’re talking about New Balance

They were the dad shoe synonymous with men who laughed at Seinfeld and subscribed to Maxim magazine but New Balance sneakers are enjoying a renaissance below the ankles of athletes and aesthetes.

“The biggest brand of the moment is definitely New Balance,” says Simon ‘Woody’ Wood, editor-in-chief of footwear bible Sneaker Freaker. “It’s the dad shoe brand that is now making the coolest stuff on the market with a fresh team and product.”

From dad sneaker to supermodel sneaker. Actor Ben Affleck wearing New Balance sneakers in 2013. Supermodels Shalom Harlow and Kendall Jenner in New Balance sneakers this year.Credit: Getty

New Balance has grown from $US100,000 in sales in 1972 to $US4.4 billion today, with recent success attributed to the popularity of the 237 style and collaborations with Aime Leon Dore, footwear design guru Salehe Bembury, Norse Projects, luxury label Casablanca and most recently Staud.

“Nike is still the dominant player in this segment of the sneaker market, but people are constantly talking about New Balance,” Woody says. “Even people who don’t know about sneakers have clocked it. Their shoes are on fire.”

Part of New Balance’s growing appeal has been its release of boldly coloured styles, which are performing strongly despite past economic trends.

“During the Global Financial Crisis people returned to basics like Vans, but we are seeing the opposite this time with some designers putting 10 colours on a shoe,” Woody says. “We are also seeing high fashion labels see the need to up the ante with their creativity, leading to some pretty sci-fi shoes from Balenciaga.”

Despite the recent collapse of luxury footwear retailer Sneakerboy, which entered administration last month owing creditors $17.2 million, demand for sneakers in Australia remains high. Market research firm Statista estimates global sneaker sales to reach $US72.72 billion ($104.96 billion) this year, with $880 million spent in Australia on high-tops, low-tops and slip-ons.

Sneaker styles: Sydney Sweeney in white on white Reebok Classic Leather sneakers; Brad Pitt at the Bullet Train premiere in LA wearing Adidas x Gucci sneakers; new Doctor Who actor Ncuti Gatwa chooses an all-white sneaker at the Prada menswear show in June; Gugu Mbatha-Raw in a colourful woven sneaker style.

“From a street point of view, all the crazy styles are attracting the eyeballs,” says Wood. “You still can’t go past a classic shoe. People thought the Stan Smith from Adidas had had its day, but you still see people rocking them or a white-on-white Air Force 1 from Nike. Nothing beats a crispy white shoe.”

Major athletic footwear brand Reebok is carving out its share of sales by focusing on all-white styles.

“Across Australia and New Zealand we’re seeing an overwhelming desire for clean, stripped-back silhouettes with authentic tie-backs to brand heritage,” says Ash Sampson, brand director for Reebok Pacific.

Paparazzo photographs of Euphoria actor Sydney Sweeney, supermodel Gigi Hadid, singer Joe Jonas and Emily Ratajkowski have helped drive demand for Reebok’s all-white Classic Leather styles, first launched in 1983 and the Club C85 silhouette.

“In spring, Reebok will be placing an emphasis on the Classic Leather franchise,” Sampson says. “Consumers are choosing wearability over flamboyancy, which has shifted in recent times.”

Sydney-based entrepreneur Parag Sawant is banking on the continued success of all-white styles, having launched the sneaker brand Monochrome in 2019. Sawant began manufacturing sneakers in Italy for the Australian market after spotting the success of minimalist designs from the brand Common Projects.

“I was trying to find something more in tune with the Australian lifestyle,” Sawant says. “It had to be understated and less flashy. Brands like Givenchy and Saint Laurent were doing premium sneakers, but they were more ostentatious.

“I wanted something sleek that wasn’t a pair of Vans.”

Monochrome offers white-on-white sneakers for $435, but the most successful style has been plain white leather on top of a pale grey, full rubber sole.

“It still has that premium look that people are looking for. We are seeing steady growth as people recognise them as investment pieces.”

There’s also good news for people looking for sneakers to wear outside, rather than keep pristine in boxes to trade.

“The next big trend will be the great outdoors, with traditional labels like Salomon crushing it in design and with the Paris shows, such as Dior, very connected to the outdoors.”

So, your choices this spring are reformed dad sneakers, technicolour styles basic white or mountaineering motifs. Choose anything in between this spring, and you may as well be wearing chisel-toe black lace-ups or nude high heels.

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