The shoe that costume designer Catherine Martin is obsessed with

Each week, we quiz a prominent person about their style and the inspiration behind it. Ahead, costume and set designer Catherine Martin.

Martin and her husband Baz Luhrmann subscribe to the theory of ‘growing old disgracefully.’Credit: Hugh Stewart

How would you describe your style? Eclectic. One of the pleasures of dressing is to be able to float between looks and styles and explore different personalities and ways of interacting with the world. I hope I can find an appropriate language to meet any situation.

What’s the oldest thing in your wardrobe? I give anything that has some significance away to Sydney’s Powerhouse Museum; for instance my Gatsby Oscars dress and a big collection of Easton Pearson. I’ve had a lot of very special pieces that I think should be preserved and deserve to be a resource for other designers – much to my daughter’s disgust now that she’s 18.

And the most recent addition? White Miu Miu jeans which are far too young for me. But I subscribe to the theory, as does my husband [film director Baz Luhrmann], of growing old disgracefully. Also, I finally found a pair of hard-to-get white Prada loafers.

What would you wear …
… on a first date? A nice frock and tiny heels.
… on a plane? I go totally leopard: Ganni leopard-print silk pyjamas with matching jacket, socks and sandals.
… on the red carpet? I have a wonderful relationship with Miuccia Prada. One of my favourites would be the face dress and coat I wore in 2014.

Catherine is an “obsessive collector” of Birkenstocks.

What’s your favourite fashion era? I can get into any fashion era, but let’s go Dior New Look from 1948 to the late ’50s – that decade just had so many fabulous silhouettes.

Who’s your favourite designer? Miuccia Prada. I also wear Romance Was Born consistently – Luke [Sales] and Anna [Plunkett] keep surprising and delighting. John Galliano is extraordinary; I was floored by his couture collection for Maison Margiela. Thom Browne has such an interesting, playful and craft-oriented way of looking at the world. There are too many to mention.

What’s your fragrance of choice? Les Exclusifs De Chanel Sycomore, a reimagining of a fragrance developed by Coco Chanel in the 1930s.

What are three essential items in your wardrobe? A Wardobe.NYC white shirt, jeans and Birkenstocks.

Any go-to jewellery? My engagement ring – it’s a beautiful paisley-shaped vintage diamond ring. And a $175 allegedly platinum wedding ring, because we forgot to buy wedding rings.

Can you remember a favourite item from when you were a child? I would only wear red shoes until I was about six – Clarks sandals in the summer and Mary Janes in the winter.

And your worst fashion mistake? I’ve had every fashion mistake and I’ve done a lot of crazy stuff with my hair. There was one ’do in the ’90s deemed a palapa [a Mexican hut] – a strange high bob with the back of my head shaved into crazy-paving sections and dyed bright colours.

Catherine says Vogue’s Anna Wintour is “appropriate for every occasion”.Credit: Getty Images

Is there anything you would never wear? At 57, I probably wouldn’t wear a dress with cut-outs, or a miniskirt.

What’s on your wish list? I’m desperate to complete two Miu Miu suits; I have the jackets and I’m waiting for delivery of the skirts.

Is there a current trend you like? I love that so many styles can exist concurrently. You can be fashionable so disparately in a way that you never have before.

What shoes do you wear most often? I’m an obsessive Birkenstock collector; I have almost every colour and I stalk the internet for the special 1774 collections. I’m always in trouble on set for wearing open-toed shoes.

Who’s your favourite fashion icon? Anna Wintour is always effortlessly dressed, incredibly elegant and appropriate for every occasion. And Iris Apfel is extraordinary.

What’s your favourite off-duty, casual Sunday look? A lot of Bassike: pull-on low-crutch pants with a T-shirt and sweatshirt. And Birkies – nothing very exciting.

Elvis is in cinemas now.

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