The once-unfashionable toupee is making a comeback among men as a nonsurgical solution for hair loss.
Toupees, otherwise known as hair replacement systems, are small wigs designed to cover bald spots. While often associated with men, they are also growing in popularity for women who wish to add volume to thinning hair.
Hairdressers Sean Fullerton (left) and Wade-William Ambler both experienced hair loss in their 20s and now wear hair replacement systems.Credit: Dean Sewell
In the 20th century, toupees were fairly common – Sean Connery sported a hairpiece throughout the James Bond films, while stars of the silver screen such as Gene Kelly and Fred Astaire were known to wear them.
But their popularity began declining by the 21st century, as toupees became the frequent butt of jokes (see: Donald Trump) and other balding solutions such as hair transplantation became more prevalent. Now the toupee is making a return, in large part thanks to social media, as men seek alternative hair loss solutions to surgery or medication.
Partners and hairdressers Sean Fullerton, 36, and Wade-William Ambler, 37, both got hair replacement systems earlier this year. Fullerton’s hairline began receding in his early 20s, which was exacerbated after weight loss surgery (hair loss is a common side effect of bariatric procedures). Ambler always had a thick head of hair until around seven years ago when he began losing it rapidly.
“I was using other methods like spraying or covering my head [with a hat] every single day,” says Ambler.
“I was like, ‘I’m not old enough to be bald.’ It’s such a huge confidence thing.”
One in five men start balding in their 20s, while around half of men experience hair loss by the age of 50.
Despite working in the beauty industry (Ambler co-owns Wak the Salon in Newcastle, which Fullerton manages), neither were aware that hair replacement systems were a viable option until doing research online.
“A lot of men, it’s not something they really look into. They’re seeing hair transplants everywhere, but they don’t know there’s another option out there … you don’t have to fly to Turkey and get surgery,” says Fullerton.
For Fullerton, who opted for a natural silver style, the procedure set him back $1500. Ambler, who wanted a custom perm, spent $1800.
They spent an additional $800 on supplies to perform maintenance themselves, which involves shaving the top of the head every few weeks and reglueing the hairpiece.
Both say they only wish they’d gotten one sooner and that no one has noticed their hair isn’t real.
Still, both believe there remains a stigma around men’s hair loss. While researching, the pair noticed most of them blurred client’s faces in promotional imagery. They decided to share their experience on TikTok to normalise male hair loss.
“We were like, we’ll just talk about it. There’s no shame in that,” says Fullerton.
Carla and Stuart Lawson are hair extension specialists and founders of CRLAB Australia and Carla Lawson Studio in Melbourne, where they create custom handmade systems for men and women.
They are seeing more men embrace hairpieces, moving from something reserved for Hollywood stars into the mainstream.
“Just watching them regain their confidence straight away, it’s an amazing thing for us to see …because it affects your day-to-day living,” says Carla.
Still, they don’t think enough men talk about experiencing hair loss, and that it’s common for female partners to push their spouses to seek help.
“Men might speak about it at home to the wife or partner, and the partner realises this makes him sad, but men, in general, not all of them, but a big percentage of them are less likely to act on it,” says Stuart.
Mark Twiname, founder of Mane, a hair replacement system studio in Melbourne, also wears a hair piece.Credit: Eddie Jim
Hairdresser Mark Twiname founded Mane Systems in Melbourne in 2018 as a result of his own experience with hair loss in his late teens.
“I got the hair system done when I was 30, and I just wish I got it sooner if I knew about it. I can see how much it can really change your confidence. It can change your life,” he says.
Credit: Matt Golding
Now 37, Twiname says the main advantage of a hair replacement system is that “it’s instant and a guarantee.”
“With surgery, there’s not a guarantee it will work. You’ve also got to wait around a year before you even see the final result. So you get the hair straight away and there’s no pain or no risk.”
Twiname says his business uses human hair of the highest quality, with prices starting around $1000. Most clients will need to change their hairpiece once a year.
Despite the stigma around male hair loss, Twiname thinks things are changing – he sees an increasing number of men, particularly Gen Z and Millennials, come through his doors.
“It’s not like it used to be, guys want to look good as well now,” he says.
What to know about hair replacement systems
- Cost: Prices for hair replacement systems vary widely depending on the type and quality of hair used, and whether they are custom made or not.
- At CRLABS in Melbourne, systems for men start at around $5000, the price owing to the use of virgin hair [human hair that has never been dyed] and the fact each piece is custom-made to fit the client’s scalp, taking around three months to craft.
- Director Stuart Lawson says cheaper pieces aren’t necessarily a bad thing – they can be a good starting point to see if a hair system is right for you.
- Maintenance: There are ongoing costs to consider with a hair system. Maintenance appointments are typically required every three to four weeks, while a hair system will need to be replaced around once or twice a year. More expensive hair systems may be able to be repaired, but cheaper ones may not.
- Psychological change: “There’s one thing we can never consult for, and that’s how a client feels,” says Stuart. “Although clients are happy, you know, they look better, they look different when they look in the mirror and in the first week or two, there’s an adapting phase, and it’s a psychological phenomenon really.”
- Styling: For most men experiencing hair loss, daily styling is not something they would have had to consider before. A hair system and a full head of hair may mean a greater commitment to maintaining and styling hair.
- What to look for in a clinic: Cheaper systems aren’t necessarily poor quality. Look for a clinic that is transparent about the process, costs and maintenance required, and has good customer reviews and before-and-after images.
– Carla and Stuart Lawson, of CRLABS and Carla Lawson Studio
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